In this configuration the gun averages about 2" at 100 yards with IMI 77gr, with some of my groups getting down into the 1" to 1.25" range. Overall, based on my experiences with the Steiner P4xi it currently has on it and the Primary Arms 2.5x that I used for about 6months before getting the Steiner, it seems to be a pretty accurate barrel considering it’s not a free floated gun.
However I’m starting to feel like having a decent LPVO on an AR with a non-free floated barrel and a fixed FSB is a bit hokey, and possibly a bit of a waste. I’m wondering how much more accuracy I could wring out of this gun if I went with a free floated handguard.
What I’ve been considering doing is cutting down the FSB and getting a free floated M-Lok handguard that can use a standard barrel nut.
However I’m wondering if this is something I can do without actually removing the FSB. I can install and remove barrels myself but I don’t quite have the confidence to go messing around with the FSB pins and so forth, especially when a proper gas seal is so critical to correct function and the gun has been as reliable as it has.
My other option is to just change the barrel out entirely. I already have an 18" FN barrel that would be a good candidate. However this would also require having a gas block put on. Although I wouldn’t be limited to handguard options using a standard barrel nut.
However it seems almost kinda wasteful to ditch the barrel the gun currently has, as it has a lot of life left in it.
Third option is to chalk this dilemma up to “first world problems” and just keep it as is, and change the barrel when the current one gets shot out, whenever that ends up being.
So, I am qualified to answer this because I stayed in a holiday inn express in 2015. Spit balling here. if you got the occasional 1"-1.25" group. That’s probably what you’ll get on a good day when you float it, and there’s nothing wrong with that. Dremel the FSP and hit it with some rattle can black. Pick a rail and go shoot.
Or… throw an aimpoint pro on that one as a random rifle and build something specific. It’s a pretty good time to do builds.
Keep it as is. Buy a 6720 upper and build up a light weight collapsible stock lower. You have one rifle with magnified optic that produces well on the range. Build a second with a quicker red dot.
As stated, you’re likely doing as well as you’re gonna do as it sits now. Of course reps after reps after reps (improving your technique) might improve you a bit if you have very consistent ammunition. My most consistently accurate, longer distances one is not floated or modified in any manner less using a different trigger/hammer assembly. If the fsb bugs you, it can be cut down without removal. If you desire to install a low profile gas block, it’s actually very easy to align the ports and get a good seal. Folks will help you get through it if you freak out.
This gun actually had a DD rear sight and an Aimpoint PRO on it for a while before I stuck the Primary Arms 2.5x on it just to see what it was like. I honestly came away pretty impressed with the Primary Arms, considering what it is. It was actually more the lack of 1x at close range rather than being limited to 2.5x magnification that ultimately made me decide to dump the PA and go with a quality LPVO.
I do have most of the spare parts available to assemble an upper around that 18" FN barrel. Perhaps the Steiner would indeed be better served on something like that. I am kind if interested in trying a light bipod out and That’s going to work a lot better with a free float handguard.
I’m already covered in the shorter, lighter, close range category.
Although I do still like fixed stocks.
I have a couple Retros I shoot fairly often as well to remain proficient on “irons only”.
I have a friend that puts either a a2 or whatever a1 thing he uses (not familiar not judging) on every rifle he has. He just prefers it. Whatever works for you. If the LOP is good then who cares. Throw a CMR, Mega, Bravo, whatever on there… Or keep the standard nut and do a Centurion quad rail for a bit of nostalgia with that mid range optic, cant say its not solid, since you have a pro and will build around the LPVO. Kinda making me think an a1 stock now (im short)
Are you looking to build a precision/DMR rifle? If so just follow everybody else’s advice and build another upper. Personally I would install a Larue mid length hand guard, and a carbine buffer tube/buttstock, then swap the red dot back on it.
. Are you looking to build a precision/DMR rifle? If so just follow everybody else’s advice and build another upper.
Not really looking to build a precision rig per se, just a gun with somewhat longer range capability than my iron-sighted and red dot equipped ARs, which I suppose it already is as currently configured. I was mostly wondering which course of action made the most sense if I wanted to try and get a bit more out of it.
Who makes your sling?
If I remember correctly they are Spec Ops patrol slings, the midlength has the padded model.
Is this your only ar? If so, you should by a light first.
No I have a few others, a couple iron sighted Retros I built, an LE trade-in Colt 6520, and the rattle-canned carbine I posted on the previous page. The latter gun has a Surefire G2X in a BCM mount on it. I may put a light on the midlength at some point but wasn’t in a hurry because it’s more of an “outdoors” AR in my mind, with the G2X-equipped gun being my main “defensive” AR.
Building a whole new upper to use with the Steiner is feasible, not right at the moment but in the not too distant future anyway, as I already have most of the parts required.
Option 1: Midlength DD Omega rail,a light, add a mil spec carbine buffer tube and preferred carbine stock, keep the scope and shoot it through a few classes and cases of ammo.
Option 2: Add a mil spec carbine buffer tube and your preferred carbine stock, a light, switch out the scope for a Aimpoint and shoot it through a few classes and cases of ammo.
Either way, if you want a PR gun, build it from the ground up because the lowers are as stated before cheap.
It probably wouldn’t be too hard to just pull the barrel, remove the handguard cap, and cut down the FSB without removing it then adding a Troy rail after reinstalling the barrel.
I say keep the FSP rather than cut it down. You already have it, and it is the toughest front sight you can get. It also can be handy as a point shooting reference.
If you can find a DD Omega, it will free float with no further action required. If you want to do a more “complete” job, which would mean removing the delta ring assembly and handguard cap (but still keep the FSP), then i say Centurion C4.
This is my 20" with DD Omega. You’ll notice I still have the delta ring and handguard cap.
Im leaning toward leaving the upper on this gun alone at the moment and perhaps just building up another one with the FN barrel and a free float handguard, and maybe eventually transferring the Steiner over to that.
Going the Omega route isn’t a bad idea, except I don’t care for quad rail handguards. I’m kinda surprised there’s nothing like the Omega but with M-Lok or Keymod instead, or are fixed FSBs just that passé now that the market isn’t really bothering to put much effort into developing new products that are compatible with them now?
Lots of good advice here. I’d go with the new upper idea. The upper you currently have could be sold to help fund the new upper. You might be able to wring out more accuracy with mods but it might be better to start off fresh with a better barrel, match chamber and FF handguard. Rainier has some great deals on barrels that have good potential for accuracy.
