removal/installation of the receiver extension?
What can withstand the 40 ft-lbs of torque without to much flexing?
You’d think that by now they would have come out with something like the upper receiver clam shell but for the lower receiver instead.
Several companies make lower receiver vise blocks. Simply stick it in the magwell and into the vise. Here’s the Brownells for example.
My hillybilly way is tightening it on the ground using the grip as a leverage point against the force of the wrench. Then stake it. The grip area is the stoutest part of the lower receiver anyway.
For as many times as you do this (hopefully once), I don’t see any problems with it. I’ve always tightened by hand, no need to use a wrench if you know what you’re doing. Don’t hulk it down and break it, but make sure it’s tight.
double tap
I have one of these that I use for installing triggers and magazine catches but I would not trust it to keep a lower receiver safe from 40 ft-lbs of torque.
Ive used the magazine type to install several receiver extensions. Use your other hand to support the extension and counteract the torque and don’t get crazy with it, you will be fine.
I use a set of aluminum vice jaw inserts with rubber faces that have fabric in them. The facing is like the material used in conveyer belts. I place the jaws on the lower across the solid area near the selector above the grip. I don’t like the idea of using the mag well to hold the lower for any procedure involving force on the lower.
You can actually put the tube sideways in a vise with padded vise jaws and torque the nut. You can’t damage the tube.
I use an old junk steel AR “clip”. Squeeze that in the vice. It’s kinda ghetto, but I don’t do enough AR work to buy a real block.
The last thing I tried using was this set of vise jaw pads from Brownells > http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/vises-accessories/vise-jaws/magnetic-soft-jaws-prod22513.aspx
Those were way to soft.
Now I’m thinking of making some jaws out of Oak unless someone can think of a reason that this would be a bad idea.
This.
Do these work good with minimal flexing of the lower between the jaws?
Do you have a link to these?
There-ya go
These look like the ones I use:
Chrome tanned leather is also an excellent facing material for resisting movement.
“padding of choice”
I’d use a mag well block if I had a choice. Being at the time I didn’t, I used 7/8oz leather in the vise jaws and a fluffy towel around the lower which was still carefully placed to remove the nut. To reinstall I used some rubber gum pads that I used for pressing holsters under the lower while standing with my socked foot on the lower so it wouldn’t rotate when torque. Not very sophisticated but it got the job done.
ETA:
I’ve actually been thinking of doing this. Use a casting kit/Alumilite. When I have some time I’ll see if I can knock that project out.
I use the magwell blocks that go into the vice to hand tighten the castle nut. Then I use the wrench on the castle nut and my padded shop floor for the pistol grip to push against/ Or I use an old crappy carbine stock, put that on the buffer tube and put that stock in the vice on the bench with the receiver resting on the bench.
Thanks for the link.
I think I will probably give those a try before I attempt to make a set of Oak vise jaws.
Also, every time I order something from Brownells I find something else the next day I should have added to the order at the time.
My last Brownells order shipped just yesterday. :blink:
If you ever get around to that casting project I would like to see you make a thread about it, with pictures of course. :happy:
I’ve had great luck with the NoMar plastic vise pieces and ordered them on Amazon. I have the upper, lower, and just got the barrel clamps also last week. Used the barrel clamp to punch a Noveske gas block in and it worked great. The upper and lower blocks have been used to build a few custom ARs and they worked really well.
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