What Glock trigger mod do you run?

I’ve got a new G19 and wanted to see what trigger mod that you use. If you have any other Glock, please chime in - this is not specific to any specific model.

Dry firing Glock’s stock trigger setup, I pretty much knew I would need to modify it.

I’ve heard of the Ghost connector, other 3.5 connectors, and custom connectors used in conjuction with ny springs, stronger springs, etc.

How about a Bowie Tactical trigger job with Ghost connector?

Thanks in advance for the advice.

I run the stock 5.5. But the Glock - connector with NY1 trigger isn’t bad.

My advice - worth what you pay for it - keep it stock, lube the disconnector and pull the trigger a few hundred times.

M_P

What characteristics aare you looking for? Lighter pull? Shorter reset? More positive reset? Consistent pull start-to-finish or a two-stage pull?

I’m fond of the NY1 /3.5# connector combination.

OEM components only.

Lighter pull, definately. The other characteristics are subjective though and hard to describe without actually having the glock to dry fire. To me, a shorter reset would seem to be desireable, but if it’s too short, that could be problematic during rapid two shot responses. A more positive reset would hamper the lighter pull, or would it? I don’t want a 2 stage pull, and a consistant pull would seem desireable.

I should have stated that this is my first glock, so I don’t have experience with a tuned trigger. I did shoot a 10mm and a 9mm G19, but that was a while back.

OEM Glock 3.5 connector.

I posted this over on TOS in a thread about the Ghost Rocket -

I have the Rocket and Wolff gunsprings “Competition Pak Trigger Group” Stk#33230 in my G17. My G19 has a Scherer 3.5lb disconnecter with the Wolff spring kit in it.

I have been shooting Glock pistols since around 1990. The first thing I did was master the stock trigger. Once I had that down I started modifying my trigger groups for lighter pull and shorter reset.

Basically what I am saying is that if this is your first Glock pistol work on mastering the basic stock 5.5lb trigger. If you don’t like it then (or intend to do some “Run n’ Gun”), modify the trigger group to your tastes. But I recommend that you do it one “component” at a time until it meets your needs. I once made the mistake of doing a complete trigger mod to my wife’s G26 before she ever fired it. After shooting the first magazine through the pistol she handed it to me and said “Fix it”. I had gotten the pull too light for her and she was uncomfortable with it (trigger gauge was showing in the 2# range).

I’ve found with my Glocks that there can be quite a difference in the tolerances of the fire control group between pistols, so even the same connector can produce a different trigger action in different pistols. Which means some experimentation is in order.

I have tried Glock OEM, Ghost, and Lone Wolf connectors. In my G21, the Ghost 3.5# rocket produced the best (for me) trigger. In my G26, the LWD. In my G19, it was a toss up between the Ghost and OEM.

There is a limit to how much you can mess with the Glock trigger before you start to reduce reliability.

Personally, I polish the bearing surfaces on the trigger parts. Don’t worry too much about screwing it up, they are cheap to replace. Make sure not to change any angles on any engagement surfaces, though.

I like the 3.5# connectors. I really like the Ghost rocket, but you have to know what you are doing to fit it properly. The Lone Wolf is a good one if you don’t want to mess with fitting it.

I have also used the extra strength trigger springs. It smooths out the trigger pull so it is no longer much like a 2 stage trigger.

I wouldn’t mess with the firing pin spring. The stock is 6# and most of the reduced power aftermarket springs are 4#. Some people have no problems with them, but you could get light primer hits. The trigger reset is also not as strong.

Don’t think you’ll get a 1911 trigger, though. Trying to do so will just screw up the reliability of the Glock. Get a timer, try a few conservative trigger mods and test yourself against the clock. Don’t trust how it feels. Trust what your targets and timer tell you. A lot of people can’t see a difference in their shooting results with a stock trigger vs. a lightly modified trigger.

Straight up OEM 3.5 connector. Polish contact points and good to go.

I never have liked the 3.5/NY1 combo that so many people seem to appreciate. And I have tried.

Been a good while since I used a Glock with any frequency, but the 3.5# OEM disconnector (I don’t think they had aftermarket ones back then!) and NY1 trigger spring combo was my personal favorite. I’m a firm believer that the first trigger pull on a pistol, especially one without a manual safety, should not be too light.

For the most part I’m a keep your Glock stock type of guy but I do like the OEM #3.5 connector that I’ve been running in one of my G19s. I tried the #3.5 and NY1 spring (olive) but I wasn’t fond of it. However I recommend you try a couple different combos.

You can still find OEM connectors but the one LW is now making seems pretty nice as well.

f.2,

As you can see it is a matter of personal preference. Good luck in determining how you want to configure yours.

I run my 34 stock. Just dry fire the snot out of it.

Glock trigger mods are cheap and easy to do it yourself. Try’em all and decide for yourself.

In my case I have a G17/19/26 and have tried ALL availble trigger mods: 3.5# Lone Wolf, 3.5# Glock, NY, etc… And at the end of the run I returned to the stock 5.5# trigger. IMO its the best trigger pull for a combat handgun.

The $.25 trigger job is a good asset to yor gun if it comes gritty from factory, or just dry fire it 1000 times and go shooting :wink:

Stock 5.5 and NY1 trigger

For those who have gone back to, or who prefer the stock setup, what specifically did you not like with your trigger mods?

stock setup on my G19 with engagement surfaces polished, ghost rocket 3.5# connector on my G24C, with everything polished.

I prefer the stock 5lb setup.

I’m pulling the NY1 out of mine and leaving it with the 3.5# only. Too hard for me to switch from the 1911 otherwise.