what do i need first for my go to gun

AR/M4 AR General Discussion
21

Well, all you need is the rifle, ammo and magazines.

Since you have that covered, accessory-wise a weapon light will be far more useful than an RDS for home defense. At those ranges, you can simply use the front sight itself as a quick aiming point – I mean, you’re talking what, 30-40 feet down a hallway in a ranch style house? – but you NEED to be able to ID your target.

After that, worry about the RDS and BUIS. For toughness and battery life, I’d recommend the AimPoint over any other. I also prefer Troy BUIS.

As for training, see if the classes you are looking at teach useful stuff, like movement, firing while moving, proper use of cover, transferring from one shoulder to the other, etc.

This may draw some flak, but if you want to get some training that you can do (mostly) without firing, or if you have a privacy fence in your backyard, or another private place to practice, you can practice CQB with an airsoft rifle. Either way, look into some of Gabe Suarez’s videos. Yes, they say they are for Kalashnikovs (AKs), but other than the basic handling and manual of arms stuff, the tactics and such can be used with any rifle.

22

I dedicate the same practice time to the carbine as the pistol at home. I work on dry-fire to reinforce the basics of trigger manipulation, reset, sight alignment/picture, and postions. Also work manipulations with snap caps to include: reloads (proactive and reactive), and malfunction clearances.

Remember, practice these techiques from each side of the body as well. The world is ambidextrous after all.

The more time spent doing dry drills will equate to less headaches when on the range.

23

Training.

If this is really a “go to gun” then you need to know how to use it first and foremost. You will also gain a good base to them make decisions as to what gear YOU need for your circumstances.

24

thanks guys this is all very helpful

25

Your Colt 6920 is more than acceptable the way it is – it came with a sling and sights, and this is an excellent place to start. Get plenty of ammo and magazines.

You have already avoided many of the reliability concerns by purchasing a carbine that complies with the Technical Data Program (TDP). Of course, there’s no guarantee yours isn’t a lemon until you actually start shooting it – which you should always do with a new gun and all the magazines you use with it. Knowing what works before you attend a good carbine course will save you much aggravation – or hone your malfunction clearing skills. Save your money on the good trainers and equipment, when the time comes.

To repeat the best advice: First get your mindset right, which is to spend your money on GOOD training. Once you have a better understanding as to the system’s capabilities (as well as your own), you will have some experience to help guide you. Of course, we encourage you to learn from others who know (that’s the most economical way to go) and SME’s and Industry Professionals have better advice than others.

The AR platform has seen decades of service just as you have it – and it has performed with aplomb, so don’t worry about the accessories just yet. If you want an inexpensive but effective light mount NOW – MI makes a decent front sight base rail, and you can mount a Surefire G2 Nitrolon for weight savings and simplicity. Understand the “best” light on your rifle won’t help a lack of situational awareness…

A good instructor, for example, might teach how to use a handheld with carbine, should your light die on you – as opposed to hawking a specific product. Gadgets have a tendency to fail when you need them most, so KISS…

In the old days, we used to use plumber’s tape and other ugly methods to mount SL20’s onto subguns and shotties, and we were still cool!

Granted, today’s 1913 rails are cleaner and more precise – but they are STILL really JUST about attaching things that most of us may WANT, but don’t really need. (IMHO, accessorizing first is more like playing Barbie, whereas enhancements after training is more like LEGO! :wink: )

Economically, Viking Tactics offers a practical, lightweight mount and G2 light combo for about $60 – which translates to about 150-200 rounds of ammo! We want “trigger” time – not “sit in the safe” time.

There are plenty of folks out there who want your money – so spend wisely, whether for training or gadgets. Most folks here want to help you protect your investment…

Just my $.02 – and about all it’s worth…

26

thanks prggrandfather, ive shot 500 rds through it with ZERO malfunctions whatsoever, which is great, i put the extra few bucks in for something reliable and so far so good. i think when i do get something itll be more ammo and mags, training and then go from there :slight_smile:

27

For a HD weapon a light to identify your target is a good idea. It will also let you see your irons in the dark.

You can get a short piece (2") of rail for about $20 and mount it at 12 o’clock on your handguards. Use blue loc-tite on the screws. You will probably also have to remove one of the heatshields with Colt HGs. Then get the V-TAC G2/mount combo.

This will put the light at about 11 o’clock and will let you push the front of the light just past the FSB. Very easy and natural to hit the tail cap with your thumb.

This is how I’ve been setting up my patrol rifle and other guns for a couple of years. Use the money you would spend on rails for a case of ammo. Get some basic training with your stock 6920 before spending the $$$ on a RDS.

Stay Safe,
Rob