When finished, the tack welded muzzle brake was laying on the floor in my lane.
Is this a normal failure or just a bad weld?
Do the muzzle breaks for AKs have the same threads and interchangeable?
If not, any recommendations for a replacement that will fit?
Thanks.
Is the barrel threaded? If so, are the threads in good condition and usable? If those answers are yes then we can work with it. Next question would be is the detent pin in the front of the front sight block in working condition? There is a spring in behind it and you should be able to push it in without a lot of effort. That detent pin is used to keep the muzzle device from spinning off…
If you’ve got a good threaded barrel and the detent pin is there all you will need is a new muzzle device - a slant brake would work well and look authentic…
Spooky
The barrel is threaded however, the top of the barrel looks worn smooth while the bottom looks good. The detent pin is in working condition and moves with little effort. I still have the old slant break. After trying to reinstall it, I found it wasn’t screwed on. It slipped right down to the FSB, unopposed. It may not be the correct dimensions to begin with, but with half of the muzzle threads worn smooth, I will have to get it re welded. My suspicion is that all the tack welded muzzles breaks don’t fit so they “tack weld” them to secure them on the muzzle. 
I was surprised when I discovered it shot off. The weapon only has 300 rounds through it.
Pictures would help tremendously.
Some of the SSR-85C’s are threaded like an AR, some are threaded like an AK, 14/1mm LH.
There are several different versions of this rifle, all with small variations. I have the one marked “ISD Bulgaria, Made in Bulgaria” on the receiver with “TGI, Knox, TN” on the bottom side of the barrel (importer). Armory USA made some and so did Elk River Tool and Die, but I have no experience with these ones. If you have the same one as mine, the threads are purposefully turned off, some more than others, from my research something to do with export agreements. Welding it is the only way it will stay on without good threads. Mine also flew off, inspecting the FSB the weld did not penetrate sufficiently. Use a micrometer and check the outside diameter of your barrel, mine was .496, meaning I can and probably will thread it 1/2-28 like an AR since there is not enough meat for 14x1LH.
Bingo! I will try and get some pics up this evening. Now to find a good smith who can re-thread the muzzle.
My first SSR-85 promptly turned loose of the slant brake, as many others did. The whole rifle had many problems, so it was exchanged for another one that is a real beauty. I’m very glad I stuck with the SSR-85 as I’m entirely satisfied with it. The brake is welded on this one also, but has stayed in place through a few rounds. I do have a theory concerning the weld. I’m going to get someone to put another spot weld on the other side of the brake as I don’t think the weld on only one side is enough to prevent barrel harmonics from breaking it. With a good weld on both sides I don’t believe it’s going anywhere.
If I KNEW that it had enough meat left to thread the barrel, I’d do that, but most were turned down too much.
As a side note, the current batch of these rifle seem to be threaded, with removeable brakes. I got mine 5 or 6 months ago so welded it was.
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I’m satisfied with the weapon over all. It is a good shooter. I just wasn’t expecting the muzzel break to shoot off with only a few hundred rounds and a non threaded or intentionally degraded thread under the muzzle break. But low and behold, they are now out with threaded muzzle breaks and no tack welding. That’s just perfect…
Yeah, know what you mean. My rifle is so nice that I’ll deal with the weld. I wasn’t planning to change muzzle devices anyway, so after I add an extra tack to mine I won’t worry.
Just get the brake that you want on yours and get it tacked on both sides, spray a little black, hi-temp paint on it and you’ll be good to go.
Good Luck
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