Like the title says.I want to start reloading my own ammo. I want to do my .223 and .45. So far I have this on my list.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=133068&t=11082005
What else would I need? What kind of powder should I use?
I’d also be curious?
Also what is the marginal cost of adding a caliber to your reloading capability? How many calibers are reasonably managed by the home loader?
Ideally I’d like to load 9mm, .45, .223, .308 and 12 ga. But that seems excessive somehow.
After doing alot of research on the benefits of reloading, I came to a conclusion that the main answer lies in the amount of shooting you will be doing: frequency and time. And since I was mainly shooting 223 at the beggining, I knew I was planning to shoot in the thousands a year thus I opted for the Dillon XL650 progressive system. If I was only looking at a few hundred a month than the single loader will do.
This will give you an idea how much money can be saved by reloading.
http://handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp
I used it on mine and found that I was saving $169.00 per 1000 when I reloaded .223/5.56.
Depends. You can go balls out and have a full tool head with a dedicated powder hopper and make caliber changes very fast. But that might get into the $300 plus range… (dies, caliber conversion, powder hopper, tool head, etc.)
Or you could get it done for as cheap as the cost of the dies and a caliber conversion… under $200. But the change over can be a lot more work.
I load with a Hornady LNL Progressive, RCBS 5-10 scale, Wilson Case Trimmer, Midway Tumbler, Mitsutoyo calipers, RCBS Hand Priming Tool, RCBS Case Master, Lyman Case Prep Kit(Cheap Drill) and numerous smaller tools.
I load for 223 Rem, 300 WSM, 38/357, 375 JDJ, 40 S&W, and 45 ACP. For each, I need dies and a shellplate. I also need a shellholder for neck turning and priming for the 300 WSM. So add on cost per caliber is $75ish.(dies, shellplate, trim case holder, crimp die, etc.) I also use Lee Factory Crimp Dies. For rifle dies, I prefer Forster, with the Ultra Seater. I get very low runout.
So, that is about $800 worth of base tools + $75 a caliber.
I looks like that RCBS kit will get you loading for like $300, and it will, but soon you will want to ease your process. The kit contains - but soon you will want:
Reloader Special 5 press - a good turret or progressive press
Case loading block - to eliminate this from your process. I use small cardboard boxes.
Case lube kit - I use Hornady One Shot in said cardboard box.
Primer tray - You’ll always need this.
Powder funnel - You’ll always need this, but may want a drop tube in the future.
505 powder scale - OK at first, but a quality scale elec or mech is nice.
Deburring tool - This is only part of case prep, next is primer pocket cleaning, primer pocket uniforming, primer crimp removal.
Speer reloading manual - Good at first for process help, but usually the process is over simplified. Also, data in manuals gets “old.” I prefer going to the powder mfg web site for latest info or calling the bullet and powder mfgrs.
You’ll pull your hair out without having:
A powder measure
A powder trickler
A case tumbler
A case trimmer
Calipers
Headspace and OAL measuring tools
Just these few additional tools will cost $375.
Then there is the chronograph, etc. It is an addiction.
For starting out and fairly low volume up through 200 at a sitting, I reccomend:
Lyman T mag kit
This kit can get you started and will still need some add ons, but overall, it is a much more complete kit, IMHO.
Do you guys buy bullets in 224 diameter for a .223 cal?
A Dillon 550b is the way to go for a new reloader… The 650 is a great press, but not really for someone who has never reloaded… In either case Dillson is the only press I would buy… The only other option is an old rockchucker for loading 19 century black powder stuff like 45-110…
B
P.S. if you have never reloaded before get the Dillon DVD and if you have any questions, give them a call… They are very helpful…
I concur with what Buck said. I started with a 550B and now am on to two 650’s. Go with the 550 first. You can keep it for making quick caliber changes and later put a 650 (if you find you even need it) into full time use for whatever caliber you shoot most.
Found some good info[b] here[/b]. I just need to know if I should look at 224 diameter bullets vs 223.
Yes, .224 is the right size for 223.
Primers, hat is the difference between non-APS and APS? I take it I need non APS type though, just want to know the difference.
Also, took a look at the Lyman kit and I like it better than the RCBS one I was looking at. Can I use RCBS dies wiht it, since I already have them?
Yes the RCBS dies will work in the Lyman press. That said, sometimes dies are incompatible. . .and then sometimes they are supposed to be incompatible and they aren’t. It’s all a guessing game. This is usually related to progressive setups.
I also saw that RCBS makes a turret press kit, also available at MidwayUSA.
Most dies are 7/8x14 thread and will work between several brands of presses. Dillon has some different thread sizes, and dies for large calibers like 50BMG and 577-.450 Martini have bigger dies and will require a press that has a bushing so yo can use different sized dies. My preferred press for this situation is the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme.
I was talking length. I have some LEE and Redding crimp dies which are just barely long enough in my Hornady LNL Progressive. I can imagine another set of dies and a different press not working together.