As an added benefit, having the rail exposed at the front will also protect the sight from impact.
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As an added benefit, having the rail exposed at the front will also protect the sight from impact.
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Welcome to the club !!! BhgeI agree with dumping the MBUS sights. If you are going to use BUIS; get a real set of backup irons. I’m of the school,”If you use an RDS optic then use fixed irons. I really think that philosophy is becoming less and less popular these days. Sometimes aesthetics take priority over function. To each his own, but that’s how I roll and I’m happy with my roll! ![]()
I like Troy fixed irons especially with the HK style front sight. Daniel Defense make a really good set of fixed buis also. However, my favorite setup is a LaRue rear sight with a Precision Reflex front sight. This setup just works for me perfectly. I can send pics if you want. But the Troy’s, DD, and my LaRue and PRI sights are built like a tank they are.
But even if you decide to get folding sights, get a set of Troy’s. They are the standard, imo. Primary Arms runs sales on them every few months and if you are a non-Texas resident they are a really good value. (No sales tax)
I agree with Trident - it’s hard to just have one AR! I also started out with one 16” AR; with a DD barrel and all solid parts. I thought at that time that it would be my “one and only”. Before I knew it, I had 12 AR’s. That number has gone down considerably since as I’ve gone back to having purpose defined weapons with some backup, but not 2-3 deep. Good luck to you. Invest in ammo, spend time training and have fun!
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What? I’m not dropping my baby!
That also makes sense though.
I dont really have a preference over folding or fixed. I have no experience with an optic but I figured I’d probably like a cleaner sight picture.
I’ll definitely look at some Troy’s!
My Aimpoint PRO came today and I think something is wrong. I’ve heard about astigmatisms making the dot look blurry. I do have one, but a small one in my non-dominant eye. It’s not that though. It’s hard to explain, but basically instead of a dot I see like a scribbled line. It’s really weird. I’m going to take it to my LGS to confirm its just not something with my eyes before I contact the seller.
So I took it outside and the dot looks a lot better, not 100% perfect but much much better. I didn’t think about my “target” being too close for the dot and to be honest, it was closer than any shooting distance would be. I confirmed its my eyes though because a picture of the dot looks perfect. Is this something I mention to my doc? I have my yearly checkup next month. I figured he’d see if I had an astigmatism in my right eye because he caught it in my left eye.
Are you keeping both eyes open? Don’t mean to insult you, but RDS optics are designed to be used with both your eyeballs open. Along with better situational awareness because of better peripheral vision. Depending on the optic, I have a tiny tiny bit of splatter/fuzz. That’s one more reason, among several reasons, why I prefer the EOTech over my Aimpoint and other RDS optics. I don’t have that same problem with it.
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Yeah, using both eyes open. I think in my basement when I first opened the box I was just too close to walls. It looks a lot better mounted on the rifle and aiming at something shooting distance away. The dot looks pretty near perfect if I don’t focus on it, but my eyes are drawn to it and after awhile I’ll start noticing “webbing”. I’m happy though, can’t wait to get to the range later this weekend.
1- Don’t waste your time and money getting different folding sights, the MBUS are more than good enough. I have used MBUS on my duty weapon for years.
2- It is your eyes, sorry.
I planned on keeping the MBUS’ until they broke and if they ever did, lesson learned and get real iron sights lol
Yeah, I figured it was my eyes after I looked through it at shoot distances. It is a good circle until my eye starts looking at the dot instead of my target.
Yeah, I plan on focusing on the target for sure. My eye just started to gravitate towards the dot when just looking through it off into the distance. I’m sure I can stop it with practice.
Troy’s are garbage. When you dont even use them and they break on you and it takes 3+ weeks to get them fixed. Yeah gold standard my ass. Id take a pair of MBUS over Troy any day. Not like it matters, aimpoints are so robust you will likely never need them.
Finally got the situation with Magpul figured out. Turns out they are counterfeit. So I’ll be getting my money back and ordering directly from magpul.
While I’m on the topic of BUIS, I was thinking and wondered about sighting my aimpoint PRO for 100 yards and maybe sighting the irons for 50 yards?
The only reason not to do this (that I can come up with on my own) is that you’d probably want the same zero for holdovers, etc but if 50 yards is close to point of aim, point of impact, it might not be a problem. Any thoughts?
The only reason to sight in at 100 is if you have a 100yd range you usually shoot at, otherwise 50yd is a better, flatter shooting zero and will keep you within a couple inchesof POA out to 300 or so. A 100yd zero will drop off quicker after 100 yds.
The dot should look better if you look through it at something that’s a good distance away. You may be focusing your eyes on the optic itself, focusing at a near object, the dot will look blurry if you do this. It took a bit for me to get used to it when I got my first red dot. Everything should look better when you have it mounted on the rifle and you are looking through it and focusing on the target downrange.
I knew the 50 yard POA/POI theory, but I thought a 100 yard zero was “flatter”. I’d mostly be using the 50 and 100 yd range, but there are days my range has 200 and 300 yard targets.
I haven’t been able to get to the range yet (I’m dying to, but I’m still deciding on my defense ammo). I guess I could zero it with my practice ammo though. It is mounted and looking through it at shooting distances it looks much better!
The 100 yd zero will hit lower at all ranges and drop off sooner. The 50 yd zero is a near zero, it will fly above the POA at 100, only like an inch and a half high or so, and have another far zero somewhere around 250yds or so. Can’t remember the exact numbers but there are some old threads about zeroing on this site that have it all written out
Hell yeah man! Get out there with your practice ammo and start shooting! Don’t wait! You can always re zero when you get your defense ammo.
Yeah, you’re right, I might as well shoot what I have and zero my defense ammo when I get it. Just waiting til payday to get my membership and get back out there.
I think there are a lot more functioning Troy buis than yours that weren’t. I’ve had at least 15 folding sets that took abuse and are 100% FMC. I’ve got fixed sets that are rock solid. Last time I checked - I think every single manufacturer has had a product that was defective. So by your mega high unrealistic standards. - that means LMT, LaRue, KAC, and Oh. My. God! BCM is garbage too. Because guess what amigo, they had all had issues. I’ve had BCM parts with issues. I’ve had a KAC part with issues and yes it took longer than 3 weeks to get the deficiency corrected. But me? I didn’t feel butt hurt and certainly didn’t feel the need to call them garbage after my SAMPLE OF ONE. Troy garbage? That’s ridiculous.
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We have some extensive intel on the pros and cons of various zero distances.
Here’s is Jack from Knights Armament providing the text of a discourse by Larry Vickers on the benefits of a 100 yd zero. I think they lend some credibility to their point. Jack references another really good great by Molon, the link is in Jacks thread. Unfortunately the images are toast, but it’s a good read nonetheless. (Molon’s images are in the thread) We have such a source of intel on this sight. By guys who have BTDT and by guys who have dedicated a lifetime to the AR. Use em bro!!
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?107572-Zen-of-the-100-Meter-Zero
Let me know if the link fails.
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Alright maybe I got a bad one, but theres a reason all the top quality BUIS like magpul and KAC do NOT lock in the up right position. Less likely for your locking detents to randomly fall off your irons.
I’ve definitely used the resources this site, especially for choosing defensive ammo. I’ll use that link and see what else I can find. I can see the benefits of both zero’s, but in my situation (where the rifle would be used most) I think the 50 yard would be best, but I’ll do some more reading before I decide 100%. The link to Larry Vickers failed, which I was really hoping to read. I have at least skimmed that post though, I knew I read somewhere that a 100 meter zero is “flatter”.