Sure, the powder is too fast for a finely tuned midlength gun or rifle length dissapator and may not reliably run it without some short stroking, (for me anyway) and it is not for your accurate .223 Wylde chamabered gun,
but cheap crap for regular guns you don’t care about picking up brass, etc. has been fine.
Some of the new stuff I am running one dud primer per box of 20 on average. And not going off on a do over.
This stuff used to give me like ten duds per thousand, typically that would go off on a do-over.
I only have about 2500 rounds of it left, it was about half the price of brass,
it was a cheap round for blasting the SIG 556 and some other guns.
Probably just piss poor QC on the primers. I tore apart a bunch of the stuff and it was surprisingly well made ammo. But I bet they have primers with damaged anvils or no compound, etc.
So that’s 50 out of 1000? Sure we would all prefer to bat 1000, but when you buy probably one of the cheapest brands on the market you shouldn’t be surprised. When that starts happening with quality ammo alert the press.
I had tula rupture in my pistol and they never responded. The OAL was near the min for some of the rounds left in the box, and the box had great variability in OALs. Maybe the rifle ammo is a different beast but it left a bad taste in my mouth - literally from the blowback.
I’ve heard good things about wolf’s CS. If I ever buy steel it won’t be tula.
That said, hopefully I’m reloading rifle before I have to buy more ammo.
Worst jam I have ever had in an AR was a primer out of must be a loose primer pocket. Bolt lugs jammed it in battery in chamber. Was harder to clear than the double, gas tube, MFer jam.
Dude, it’s the internet - stories is what you get most of them BS. Don’t you know?
Same here, but I’ll shoot that stuff all day long in any of my AR’s (Noveske, DD, VLTOR, Centurion) and no issues ever - thousands of rounds.
ONLY issue - verified anecdotal and recurrent - is when following a particular heavy ‘firing schedule’…(OK - shooting a LOT and shit gets REALLY hot) you will get the occasional stuck ‘brass’, needing to mortar it our. Reliable and guaranteed. I think it’s just the coating getting sticky.
Other than that, reliable and surprisingly accurate - as you probably know. Wolf, WPA, Tula, Bear, you name it.
And shooting at night can be very entertaining - quite the muzzle blast, especially on a SBR.
With cost of ammo as is, and looking at high volume I just can’t afford spending that kinda cash on good brass ammo (things like classes and anything within 100 yds where non MOA-type precision is needed.)
Simple choice between shooting a lot or not. Easy choice.
OP - did you contact TULA witha batch#?
Like:
…"[i]Our primary goal is to support the highest quality ammunition provided by these two factories under the TULAMMO brand. We expect nothing but the best during the performance of our ammunition products. To order TULAMMO products, and for any questions about TULAMMO, please contact us at 888-317-5810. We also can be reached via email at info@tulammousa.com.
Fwiw, the stuck cases are from gas leaking around the case and fouling the chamber since the steel don’t seal it like brass. This is made worse by shooting brass after a lot of steel since the brass will then expand and stick to the carbon now between the case and chamber wall.
Thank you, that is useful info. I have sent them a message with the lot number.
And yes,
now that I am providing my own ammo,
depending on availability and trends over the past few years,
TULA is used as range ammo because the cost is between 1/2 to 2/3 that of ammo I would prefer to stock up on and use exclusively.
I have been keeping this as about 1/3 of my on hand ammo. I prefer the budget getting my twice as much range time. I also found the one dud primer per 100 acceptable and enough to not dull the MF reaction.
I also reload,
but mainly so I know how and can. The time involved, and the increases in component costs the past few years do not make a preferable option.
IMO the rec against it are for wear issues.
Yes, it is steel, but it is not like it is tool steel cases.
Several thousand rounds will show more wear on say, an extractor groove than brass, even on a good spec bolt. So if they are using softer parts in cheap brands, that may be part of it.
Also, something about the powder in the Russian ammo is supposed to wear out barrels faster. Again, will you wear it out in 8K rounds vs. 10k? Do you shoot that many rounds doing mag dumps or in slower semi auto has as much to do with it.
Price being no object, I would say all my ammo would be US made, boxer primed, crimped primer, brass cased. (except I get better accuracy and sd of fps with a korean made brand, how I do not know)
Ive shot thousands of tila through my 9mm cz with only 2 out of spec rounds. However, I stopped using it in my rifles. The only type of ammo I have had cases get FTE was tula and after about 3 or so I burned up the rest amd haven’t bought any more.
In those guns, I never ever had any issues with steel case/core ammo.
Not stories, I’ve had many issues with Tula ammo myself. Some shooting friends do as well. Most lower-end AR’s may not cycle Tula ammo properly, esp when run without enough lubrication.
Most high-end rifles can run them just fine with proper lubrication, but not everyone owns those.
Well you got me there-anecdotal evidence trumps internet lore every day.
Makes sense what you’re saying.
Now i think of it, yeah that was dumb of me to say that so adamantly, i have a Walther ppx that simply will not feed any steelcase ammo. Turns it into a jam-o-matic.
Great way yo train for failures though…::