SORRY.
maybe i’d like to change to a different rail when something new is released in the future? maybe i want a shorter one? i don’t friggin know. i only mentioned the brand being a factor because i was planning on buying a complete noveske rifle, and then the government got another hard-on for burning the constitution, ergo, everyone is sold out of complete rifles.
I changed out my troy alpha rail for the NSR rail and have no complaints. It’s very sturdy, lightweight, and the barrel nut is not really an issue. It can be changed out just as easy as it went on.
Both rails have their good points and I like both…the Troy for price and the NSR for weight and overall looks. Since I own Troy rails already I see no point in changing…I find no good reason to buy one just to keep up with the Jone’s.
If I were building another AR I would consider the NSR rail if money was no object.
I have an Alpha, and as soon as I can find an NSR somewhere in stock I will be replacing it. The Alpha is fine, and I haven’t noticed any durability issues whatsoever, but the NSR is lighter and thinner, and I just plain dig that shit. 
If you’re not sure what rail you need you probably don’t need one at all. Just buy a MOE handguard from magpul. It’s cheaper and modular then if you see the need to add something you can just add rail segments to the MOE stock. If not I’d get whatever is available people can’t find NSR’s these days.
It is actually much more than $60. First many Troy rails are often discounted and the keymods are $20 each, Troy ships with three. Then you must buy a special barrel wrench and often grind it to fit. So to be on par the NSR is at least $150 more. That’s almost 2X the Troy.
That said, I have two NSRs and two Alpha rails with the newer mounting system. Both seem secure. While I really like the feel of the NSR, I have had to have one barrel nut put on a lathe to take a few thousand off so it fit over my barrel profile. The other did NOT line up within torque specs on a 7.5" diplomat barrel. I am not alone in the latter issue. Both uppers are Valtor Muir and neither installs were simple. To be fair, many do not have issues.
I am not trashing the NSR, I do love it. But you should know that the barrel nut can have it’s issues.
Jt
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Fair enough. But we didn’t make the barrel nut different to just to make it different. Being longer it allows the handguard to flex less and not having the teeth allows for a smaller profile.
If you had mentioned cost, weight, profile, mounting or availability … but it kinda sounds like you want to play dress-up with your Barbie. idk
If you’re not sure what rail you need you probably don’t need one at all.
This…
If you feel like your current build may have some upgrades in the future I would go with a 16" barrel and stay away from.pinning anything.
and this too.
Really? Please enlighten those of us who have not bought a special barrel nut (wrench) and had to grind it to fit as to what you are talking about.
ETA- “wrench” for easier context.
Wow,
Maybe I am reading your post incorrectly, but it seem unduly sarcastic. I never said you had to buy a special barrel nut, nor would I ever suggest to grind a barrel nut.
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I know if you search a bit you will find people who have hard a hard time as I did with getting the NSR to line up within proper torque regardless of making sure debris, excess grease etc. was not contributing to the problem. The 1st attached picture is of the Noveske 7.5 with Viltor upper, that I had torque issues with. Of course it is fixed now so the image is pointless.
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Same goes for having to grind a barrel nut tool NOT THE BARREL NUT. I have attached a photo, but that is not a big deal.
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BARREL NUT ---- I had to USE A LATHE on the barrel nut, on another build to take a few thousands of material from the inside of the barrel nut to clear the barrel shoulder (the part just before the barrel extension).
The barrel nut tool ground to fit.
I hope this was clear. My only point was to say that in some cases, the NSR takes a bit of work.
Jt
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I quoted you with your wrench comment, but I suppose my context could have been more clear to the other people reading this. My question is regarding your comment stating you had to “buy a special barrel wrench and often grind it to fit”.
That is what I’m looking for clarification on. How many barrel nut wrenches did you have to buy, and how many did you have to grind to fit?
You show as having uploaded something, but nothing is viewable using Mozilla Firefox 18.0.1. That seems to be a common board problem when people try to direct upload here instead of using an host for the images.
I could be wrong but I was under the impression that you had to use a nsr specific MUR or else you could run into problems. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
I didn’t, since i didn’t have a MUR with the pin hole. you don’t have to use one - but it’d be nice to have.
The Noveske MUR has the alignment pin (anti-rotation pin) hole pre-drilled for those that are inclined to use it. Mine works perfectly fine without it, and I don’t foresee myself working the barrel nut loose anytime soon by hand.
LOVE my 13.5 NSR
Thanks Gents for the clarification.
The 1-1/16" crows foot needed is not super common but easily found. Mine (as well as some others) were too fat to fit the NSR barrel nut. So to your point, I bought one and ground it down. I didn’t factor it into the price of the rail, nor think it is a deal breaker. Image link below
Jt
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Great info gents. I’m currently shopping for the perverbial henstooth NSR for a build. Looks like it may take some time to complete.
The 1 1/16 or Sunex 27 mm works fine with a small bit of trimming. Got it off Amazon for just a few bucks. Took 20 minutes to get the correct width to fit the NSR barrel nut. No big deal whatsoever.
As far as using an upper that doesn’t have the hole machined for the anti-rotation pin I haven’t heard any problems. If you are a little paranoid about this you can make a makeshift anti-rotation tab from some optic mounts. For a little insurance I slid my T-1 LaRue LT660 mount slightly forward to where the very front of it overlaps the NSR.
-Jax
ETA: The worry about the NSR ‘spinning’ is a little overblown. I ran a DD Omega X 12" for years. It’s a great rail but has no tabs and it has a much weaker mounting setup compared to the Noveske. Never had a problem with that one either.