I’ve been mulling over getting a better weapon light for my AR. I’m stuck between a few choices and could use some help. I would mostly use this gun for home defense, and carbine classes in the near future. I do not see myself using this light for id’ing targets at 200 yards. So the light would mostly be used indoors. I do like the look of lightweight options like the surefire mini-scout and mini L4 from viking tactics.
I have tried to search several forums, including lightfighter, this one, and ar15.com. I tried to see what the general consensus is on a preferred light setup and go from there. Naturally they’re too many variables, too many griping styles, too many different preferences. It seems alot of light setups don’t really cater to what I’m looking for, more on that later. Alot of people still use ye old broomstick grip on a VFG and use their thumb to activate the light, I do not use a VFG.
I see people also running something like scout lights, or something similar with tape switches. I have heard about some durability issues with tape switches, and I’m honestly not a fan of wire dangling on my gun that could be easily destroyed or pulled out (irrational fear?)
I really like the thumbs forward/over grip on my rifle. Naturally if there was a weapon light in the 10:30-11:00 position i would be able to hit it with my thumb. I do not see alot of people running a light in this fashion. The only time I’ve seen it is with something like a gear sector mount, or a dropwing mount. (and usually they’re configured with tape switches.) I have also seen the light mounted in more of a 1:30 position as well and when gripping the weapon “thumb over” you can hit the light.
Does anybody run a light this way? Is there a downside I’m missing? Thoughts, ideas, welcome.
I own 2 Insight Technology M3 lights. I have one attached to my Glock and one attached to my carbine. I installed a GG&G mount on my carbine handguard, so the light is easily installed and removed. I also have a mount on my 870, so I can move the light when I want to use a different long arm in low light conditions.
The M3 is not the best light in the world, but it is economical and good enough to illuminate anything I want to shoot out to 50 yards. I can illuminate objects farther out, but I believe 50 yards is my limit on accurately putting rounds on a target using my light.
I handled other rifles where there was a pressure switch taped to the handguard and it just was not my cup of tea. I handled another rifle with a light switch on the vertical foregrip and I did not care for it either. My set up works well for me.
Scout light mounted at 9 o’clock. Thumb forward grip, using the web of my left hand to press the tail cap switch on the tac light to activate. You can use an AFG, regular VFG, or just rail/handguard. I’ll shoot a few pictures later.
You can run your rifle support shoulder and still hit the light simply by going with a VFG, and a conventional thumb activation.
I would mostly use this gun for home defense, and carbine classes in the near future. I do not see myself using this light for id’ing targets at 200 yards. So the light would mostly be used indoors
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So you plan on it being used indoors at close range for your lighting needs…which is what a pistol light excels at. I fail to see the problem with a SF x300, or TLR-1 mounted in your preferred location for thumb activation. The TLR-1 certainly has a more user friendly switch for thumb activation too.
I have come to prefer the 12 o’clock mount for lights whenever possible. It’s completely ambi, minimizes shadow, and isn’t blocked by cover or other supported positions. I have been a Surefire fan for close to a couple decades now and have several X300’s to show for it.
That said, I have a couple Inforce WML’s and am very impressed! I recommend the momentary only version. More than adequate brightness for indoor work. In fact I like them so much I’m eager to get my hands on their new pistol light (APL).
If 12 o’clock isn’t an option, I recommend the Thorntail/IWC mount and run that on my duty rifle (because it has a FSB). The rail mount that clamps to the FSB is another god option that allows easy use of a pistol light.
Don’t underestimate the value of the VTAC L4-3V psuedo scouts - if you’re running an offset mount anyway. I really like my three scout lights (2xM300, 1x X600) on various mounts, but the performance difference between them and my 3V VTAC is negligible.
GearSector, O3DG, VTAC, or IWC all make good offset mounts if that’s what you’re after - mine rides in an old VLTOR flat mount at 12:00.
The other alternative would be an X300 - that’s what the rest of my carbines wear, so they work too. The ultra is even better on longer carbines.
Whatever you do, do not buy a TLR-1S HP, the lens screams shoot at me. I mounted it on a BCM upper using a Haley Strategic offset mount and the damn thing is so clear and bright I’m afraid it might reflect any ambient light.
I wish they made a kill flash or filter for it. It’s bright as hell when you hit the on switch though.
A butler creek scope cover in clear. Hit the clear lens with a scotch brite pad on the outside to scuff it up a bit. Problem solved. With the cover on you’ll still get plenty of light output with a lot less flash. Flip the cover open for max lighting.
