Ive come to a conclusion after many reloads practiced and the last 3 weekends of shooting that my carbine is heavy, almost too heavy. I need to cut some weight and I think the M900 has to go. Its big, bulky, and freaking bright. But, there are lights that can do just as much at 80% of the weight.
So my plans were to remove the M900, and put a P61 bulb in my G2 with a clicky tail cap, and then mounting it in a larue mount. That gives me about 120lumens? And only 20minutes of run time, which does not concern as me as I have time to switch out batteries…
This also opens up getting a shorty tango down VG, which I also like to use as it allows my hand to grip the rail/grip at the same time…
Anyone else run a similar setup? If so, consensus?
I have one of Grant’s G2 “package deals” with the “shock” bezel and the clickable tailcap, mounted in a Vltor light mount.
I like the setup quite a bit. I don’t think the shock bezel is any brighter than the stocker, so I’m not sure what I have is a 1:1 with what you’re trying to do.
I don’t know if the bezel is needed or not. The whole package was around $100, so I just went for it. I figured better to have and not need than vice versa.
I have an X300 sitting on my coffee table to put on… well I can’t remember what I bought it for now. The light does appear to be smarter than me however, as I don’t seem to be able to figure out which mount is for what rail or how to adjust either mount to allow the light to slide on and off easily from anything.
But, it is a nice light and I think I bought it with the intention of mounting on my AK. FWIW.
Adaptor marked “P” is for 1913 rails, the other one marked “U” is universal/Glock spec. The Glock locking bar is a little more narrow IIRC. It will lock on 1913s with a little wobble, whereas the 1913 spec one will not lock onto a Glock.
Some X200As and all the Bs I think had an allen screw on the back of the left side attached to a wedge for tightening on the gun if using the crossbolt-style mount. I have a 200A with and one without the screw, and all my B models have them. Neither of my 300s have it, though.
For using the pull-tab plate I think you just have to break it in.
Also, make sure to use the cotter pin to keep the battery door closed under recoil.
The X300 is amazing. Puts out a lot of light in such a little package.
I am running a G2 w/ p60 lamp and shock bezel in a VTAC mount, and a TD stubby. I get 60 lumens and an hour runtime. When I get my stamp back this G2 will go on my 10.5LMT and get a P60L lamp, led with 80 lumens and 12 hours runtime. This will be an CBQ setup, and I find 80 lumens to be quite enough in close spaces, especially if there are white walls, etc. On my 16"middy will go another G2 and VTAC mount or the new VLTOR that looks similar but is aluminum instead of polymer. It will have a P90 lamp and 9v adapter for better throw and 105 lumens for 1 hour. A more general purpose role.
I like the stubby TD grip. I made my own by cutting down, shaping, and gluing the cap in place of the full size I had. I’ll pick another up for the new upper too. I found I never used the battery storage in it anyway, and after taking Pat’s Carbine class, I adopted a higher VFG hold with thumb and index finger along the rail, leaving the bottom of the grip unused. Plus I’m always looking to shave some weight, and while it wa only maybe an ounce, it is out there at the muzzle, and it does add up.
How about the G2 with an LED head in an Vltor or DD mount?
Derek- I’m not going to say I told you so now but remember back when you were asking about painting tips and I said I thought you put a little too much on?
I had a M900 and didn’t like the bulk and weight. Sold it 2 yrs ago.
Since then, I’ve used:
-6P (Z32 bezel) mounted using a VLTOR scout mount and with a MI FSB mount at 9 oclock
-Gladius mounted similar
-E2 mounted similar to above, using VLTOR E series mount
-X200B on the FSB rail/mount
Out of all the above, the 6v lights works great for inside, and the Gladius for outside.
An X300 might be a good do-it-all light.
I have found that I want more lumens for outside work, so I have on order (from Grant) a 9P with a HO-9 bulb. I’ll use a Z32 with it. That’s a lot of lumens (350?).
I missed the LED lights from the M900, so I taped a red LED microlight to the handguard at 6 oclock to use as a navigation light. Works great.
Someone mentioned a shock isolated bezel. There’s no need for one with any decent LED- they are shock isolated themselves. Plus if you get a good LED they are usually MUCH brighter than standard G2 bulbs.
I took some camera phone pics of my G&R light yesterday just for shits and grins. When I bought mine, LEDs weren’t really an option, hence the shock-isolated bezel.
I have had a M900a for a long time and I also becagn to look at it as an over weight solution. The M900a definite has an excellent feature set and the power of the light is just right for carbines.
A few years back when I built my Sabre mid-length I went with one of Grant’s Scout style WG6D lights it has the smaller lighter E style body with the built in P60 lamp adapter. It’s very lightweight and the P60 usable out to about 25 yards outside and more than adequate for indoor use.
I’m going to update it with one of the Malkoff CREE LED or the new Surefire, Don’t remember the exact model, CREE upgrade. I’m waiting to see how the Surefire lamp will priced before buying one. The Malkoff or new Surefire LED lamp should bump this light up to the more than the 120 lumen lamp I’m using in my M900a.
The biggest issue for me was light placement, for a long time I obsessed abuout the best place to put the light but then I finally realized that there is no one perfect location which will allow you to use the light with both hands and without using a wired switch.
After trying a bunch of different mounting positions I’ve decided the best solution for me to mount the WG6D to the 9 o’clock rail positioned in a way where I can activate it with my support hand thumb. This also allows me to easily use the light when I switch sides.
I chose 3 o’clock because so I can leave the 9 o’clock rail open so the light does not get in the way of the sling mount and because things were also getting cramped on on the 9 o’clock rail especially whith I the thumbs forward grip I prefer. Switching my grip to activate the light hasn’t proven to be an issue for me and I really like the extra room for my supprt hand when not using the light.
Seems like I’ve gone full circle with where I mounted my lights.
I’d be interested in knowing if anyone has used a Surefire 676. It looks like it’s ideally placed and the switch would fall right to hand using a forward grip on the handguard or a VFG. I’d seriously consider this setup with an LED upgrade if I weren’t running a suppressed SBR.
I do feel that a G2, or 6P and the like do need the shock isolated bezel to protect the bulb. When the bulb gets hot and you bang the light, or maybe even the carbine on something metal, or a door frame the filament will break easily when hot. Ask me how I know this.
If you broke two bulbs in this way it would cover the cost of the shock isolated bezel. Now that other options are available, the LED may be the better way to go for durability reasons. M.H.O.
