Troy M7 16'' CQB Upper receiver barrels.

First off - 16’’ and CQB should never be in the same place together.

Second - Is NiCorr becoming more popular? They’re the second maker I’ve seen this from. I love this coating (Amazing on LWRCi rifles) and was wondering if anybody knows where I can get it done. If it’s available.

Third - Not that I’m considering buying one, but what’s the general consensus on Troy AR uppers?

People use 16" for CQB every day. The military uses 20" for CQB, and quite effectively. NiCor, I know nothing about, but LWRC is using it and they make some very high quality guns.

Nicorr is not a finish.

It’s a metal nitride treatment.

I believe it will become more popular. When done right it is viable compared to chrome and phosphate with some tangible benefits

Do you know where standalone NiCorr treated barrels can be bought?

Well it’s not a stand alone but…

http://www.dsarms.com/DSA-ZM4–16-Chrome-Moly-19-Twist-Barrel–556—DSZM4001M4/productinfo/DSZM4001M4/

I have no experience with it, h*ll for all I know it could be junk or really good for the money

I appreciate the post, but I wouldn’t touch anything DSA for a life saving gun.

Kyle Defoor has a couple of entries on his blog Re: the 16" Troy CQB upper. He just built up a new carbine wearing the new Troy upper after shooting out the barrel on his DDM4.

LINK: http://www.kyledefoor.com/2010/08/new-carbine-ready.html

Off the top of my head, I can’t name anyone selling nitride barrels

You might want to give Spikes a call. They are doing 4150 cold hammer forged Melonite treated barrels, which basically is the same process as nitride.

In a nutshell here are the suggested benefits of a nitride treated barrel

  1. Tighter tolerances because the barrel is not over-bored to accommodate the chrome lining layer, which in theory translates to better accuracy

  2. Barrel is near impervious to rust inside and out

  3. Color can’t be worn off like traditional barrel phosphate. The barrel steel is actually treated

  4. No chrome lining.

  5. Better barrel life due to incredible surface hardness.

  6. Barrel should be cheaper due to no chrome lining or phosphate

Are KAC barrels nitrated or CL?

If so, then this is a non issue for me.

ETA: I meant to say CL but put CHF. I don’t know why.

I’ve done about 6 nitrided barrels for SPR’s so far. Results have been very good. It is cheaper than chrome, but in small numbers it’s still pricey.

Let me know if you all have any questions I can answer.

–kevin

  1. Should be easier to clean too (does something to the pores to close them off or fill them with carbon.)

If one of the guy’s that have LWCR rifles that have the newer barrel could chime in with there experience that would be great.

Spike’s WAS selling as 410 SS treated barrel that was branded by Adam’s Arms that they (Adam’s Arms) had made by somebody else. Adam’s Arms rep would not tell who made it. Someday I will get around to install that barrel.

I have thought about buying a SS barrel and sending off to have it treated at Coal Creek Armory
http://www.coalcreekarmory.com/custom_finishing.html#Melonite

By the way was a good reading info on that page about the process.

A word of caution; there is a small gun company in Utah(they make a different rifle) that had some barrels treated and they had to be tossed out since the process messed up the barrels. Or so the story goes. Variablebinary MIGHT be able to shed so light on that, maybe it this is the same guy over on a different forum.

I had an LWRC M6A1 with nitride CHF barrel. I didnt find it any easier to clean than a chrome lined barrel. Just ran a bore snake through, and that was it.

It was a good barrel. Very accurate. If there a rack of rifles, spotting the LWRC’s is easy because nitride barrels have a very distinctive look

And Robinson Armament found that nitride can make an M&M effect on barrels where you have this very hard outer shell, but very soft inner core, which is not a good thing when the barrels are pushed hard.

They were nitriding everything on the M96 back in 2000, so they have quite a bit of experience with the process

Agree on the cleaning. Still takes forever to get the copper out.

My nitriding folks have been advising me to stay away from treating stainless barrels, specifically very hard stainless like 410 or LW. Another thing they’ve reported back is that some companies have used to heavy of a treatment which can cause the nitrided surfaces to shear from the substrate. Actually IIR correctly, this what Noveske experienced when they were playing around with it on stainless test barrels.

Were working up to cook one here in September. I’m actually ordering the blanks for the test today. Were going to bench a carbine and print groups at intervals as a non-scientific test. We’ll also be measuring throat erosion. We’re going for carbine testing this time to focus on durability versus my previous (again non-scientific) before and after accuracy tests.

Joel Kendrick of MMI-Trutec has been melonite treating barrels for a few years. He’s a benchrest shooter and has used his barrels to win alot of matches. I believe with AR barrels that there was a problem with the extensions coming loose after treatment. I asked Joel about this and he said they revised the process for AR barrels to prevent this from happening. I would say if you want a barrel done to e-mail Joel at joelkndrck@aol.com.

Funny you mention that :slight_smile: Joel has done all of my barrels. The extension issue is definitely resolved. Joel and Mike are great guys and do a fantastic job. If anyone needs a barrel ran through them, let me know I can always include it the ones I’m sending down.

–Kevin

Kyle Defoor is actually how I found out about the NiCorr Troy Uppers.

Can you send in a CL barrel to be nitrated or does it have to be a blank?

ETA: Once again, meant to put CL but put CHF. I keep making stupid spelling errors.

You nitride the finished barrel, not a blank.

So if I sent in my E3 barrel it could be done?

And what happens to the chrome lining of the barrel?

I was under the impression that it was one or the other not both?

Not if it is already chrome lined.

A sandblaster can strip the phosphate easy enough, but chrome lining is a different story