Green triangle seems to be the way to go for GP use. (Green horse-shoe would be even more cool, though. :p)
Don’t want to hijack, but I was wondering about the placement of the triangle in the lens / target in the above photo. Would that target have ended up with a 5.56-sized hole above his right eye if the trigger was pulled as the picture was being snapped? I’m used to Aimpoints where you don’t have to perfectly center the dot in the sight – red dot is on POI regardless of its location in the optics’ lens. Are the TR24s parallax free as well? Or is it a totally different concept since it’s a reticle and not a red-dot? What am I missing here?
No they arent parallax free, inside 25 yards i use the entire triangle unless needing a aimed shot (brain box etc)
as for green.
actually John my thoughts come from the test i have seen come from A GS-15 whom work in that field and those that i know from John hopkins…
and from actually using all 3 colors in the field for close to a year in various season in Michigan and AZ in spring summer fall and winter while hunting and shooting and training
I kind of tend to lean on there reports on green . and our eyes.
"The human eye contains photoreceptor cells called cones which normally respond most to yellowish-green, green, and blue light (wavelengths of 564nm, 534nm, and 420nm respectively). The color yellow, for example, is perceived when the yellow-green receptor is stimulated slightly more than the green receptor, and the color red is perceived when the yellow-green receptor is stimulated significantly more than the green receptor.
I just laid some money down on a Accupoint TR20-2 3x9 amber mildot. I was going to get green, but the amber is quit intense and easy to see. I took it outside the store in the sun. Jeez is that something! Green alfalfa field across the road it is VERY distinct against green. Into the treeline with heavy underbrush it is outstanding. inside the shop the brightness of course isn’t as intense, but still very visible and clear. I really liked it It seems like a nice unit clarity is clear. I’m going to give it a try. If it works out for me I might buy the 5x20-50 model for the M21.
So how does the triangle work exactly for longer distances? Is it a 4MOA dot essentially? I’ve never used this type of reticle so I’m looking for the basics.
It can be used more precisely than the dot because you use the tip of the triangle at longer distances instead of the whole thing. There is no easy way to do that with a round dot.
Pat
But how do you calculate holdover and such on long distance shots? What does the triangle and the post represent in terms of MOA? I’ve searched the Trijicon site and looked at the manual but couldn’t find anything.
I like triangles and chevrons, each has slight differences that may matter depending on the user and their needs.
Alaskapopo is correct that a the tip of the triangle or dot is more precise than a dot, however, one can use the top of the dot (12 oclock) as a precise aiming point, similar to how you use the top of your front sight when aiming with irons.
I guess A_Med and I are slow, I’ve only shot irons for distance and a red dot for under 100y. So you have the triangle with its nice point, what distance do you zero the tip for?
I’m thinking you zero the tip for a longer distance like 100 yrds, or do you do it longer like 200 yards (wouldn’t that be a repeat of a 25m zero almost?).
Just looking a ballistic table for MK262, with a 100 yard zero, the POA would 2MOA lower at 200 and about 10MOA for 400yards?
Is there a technical reason that they don’t put a ACOG type reticle in these?
I have astigmatism and I see a oblong dot so I am not able to use the top of the dot. I can use a triangle tip however. I zero most all my rifles at 50 yards except my precision AR in .308. And that is doped in at 100.
Many bow sights currently use fiber optic pins of various colors. The best way to set them up is to have the green for the closest range, yellow for the intermediate range, and red for the farthest ranges.
The reason is as that light fades, the red is the hardest to see, followed by the yellow, followed by the green. When there is little light but you can still see things near by, you can still see the green pin…
I do not know if this is a function of the fiber optic pins, human eye, whatever. But based on my experience with that, I’d pick green.
I went by a local gun store today and looked to see what they had for the 1-4 optics since I am planning on adding one to my LMT. It is a small shop but to my surprise they had an S&B Short Dot PMII 1.1-4X20, a Meopta Meostar R1 1-4X22 K-Dot, and a Trijicon Accupoint TR24-3G 1-4X24 with the German #4 reticle and green dot.
This is the first time I have ever handled an S&B scope and I was very impressed by the excellent build quality. The glass was the clearest I have seen and the adjustments were smooth and positive. The CQB reticle has both the red dot for quick shot placement and the fine lines for precision aiming at greater distance. Now I understand why these scopes command the prices they do.
Next up was the Meopta. I would rate the build quality as very good and close to that of a Leupold. The glass while not quite as bright as the S&B was still quite clear. The adjustments were smooth but not quite as positive as the S&B. I liked the K-Dot reticle for close work but don’t think it would be as useful for precision at distance. Overall this is a good scope for the price.
Finally I picked up the Accupoint. I thought the quality of the build and clarity of the glass were on a par with the Meopta. The adjustments were also solid. I was surprised that I could barely see the green dot unless I covered the objective with my hand. Maybe it works better in direct sunlight or if it was somewhat dark outside. I did not care for the German #4 reticle for precision at distance.
I have decided to wait to buy a 1-4 optic until I can afford the S&B. The other scopes are good values but can’t compare with the Short Dot features and quality. I am glad that I had an oppotunity to see these three scopes at the same time and only wish they had a NightForce 1-4.
While I was there the owner also showed me a few rifles I also can’t currently afford since I think he likes to torture me. He had an LWRC piston model and an limited edition FN SCAR made in Belgium. It was quite an interesting visit.
Something that hasn’t been mentioned on the #4 German: the reticle pattern was used in Germany for their sniper/sharpshooter optics. It allows for quick ranging and bracketing due to the layout.
I’ve been looking at putting one on an SDM build. I haven’t decided on the green or amber, although I think I might like the green better as I’m worried about the washout.
I’m sorry if I’m being dense but I’m still trying to understand the Triangle Reticle. The spec sheet for the TR24G says the Reticle is 16.7 - 4.2 MOA. Is this referring to the base of the triangle at 100 Yards on 1X and 4X magnification? And, is the MOA from the base to the top point also 16.7 - 4.2???
What shop was this? My family lives in Houston and I go there often.
Also, it says on the Trijicon website that the triangle has the BAC whereas the German #4 doesn’t. I don’t understand why you couldn’t shoot with both eyes open on 1x with the German #4???
Also, if you go to the Benos website, the 3 Gunners really like the Swarovski 1x6 with illuminated reticle (true 1X) . It’s a lot cheaper the the S&B Line. Still eat up a 1500 dollar bill, though. I guess you mostly get what you pay for when it comes to optics.