I’ve noticed that the trigger reset on my rifle doesn’t keep up with the speed of my trigger pulls. The “problem” rifle: 11.5" BCM, home-built Noveske lower (DD LPK), H buffer, SOCOM 556-RC, CBC/Magtech M193.
I’m comparing this to my factory 14.5" SR-15 and BCM 12.5" on a 6933 lower, both unsuppressed.
I can pull the trigger a hell of a lot faster on my SR-15 and my 6933. Yes, the SR-15 has the KAC 2-stage trigger, but the 6933 is stock Colt. After my first mag in the 6933 today, the range officer came up and asked me if it was full-auto or a “slide stock”…
I haven’t checked to see if there is a difference when un-suppressed (can was too hot to mess with).
So what gives? How/why is the trigger not re-setting quickly enough for my finger?
Not sure to be honest, but an H buffer is WAY too light for that set up. I have the same upper, and when suppressed I recommend an H3 buffer and a good spring. I am thinking aloud that could be part of the issue.
I also have an 11.5 BCM that almost always runs a mini-can, and I use an H3 buffer/Springco blue as well. Not that IG needs seconding, but I would also recommend switching out to a heavier buffer and seeing if that helps out.
It may seem a bit odd to ask, but has your trigger been out of the lower and the trigger spring removed and later reinstalled in the lower? If by chance that spring is improperly installed (with the square spring origin on TOP of the trigger’s sear surface), it will give you varying speed trigger returns. It will also pass the standard function test much of the time so installed.
Weird. Does it run an H2 Un-suppressed? I run an H3s and even A5h3’s and A5h4’s in my BCM 11.5s un-suppressed and they still lock back. Assuming your running 5.56 ammo. When the cans on, you should be able to lock back a H3 with pretty much any ammo out there…
The can was stuck on before I headed to the range, and was too hot to take off while I was there. Didn’t want to shoot it off, as I’m under the impression that this is the “last resort”.
I was thinking the same thing. When I first built that SBR in 2008, it had an H2/Sprinco without the suppressor. Once I put the suppressor in place, and started shooting I had intermittent failures to lack back. I went to the H3/Sprinco problem solved. But, yeah something definitely seems off and I have built or recommended this set up to many people and no one has ever come back with an issue.
I believe they are referring to a test of the trigger assembly.
Ensure unloaded.
Ensure unloaded.
Check chamber to ensure empty and no mag
Dry fire and keep trigger back.
Cycle action (look again to make sure you don’t have a mag in there)
Release trigger (hear it reset)?
Pull trigger and make sure it’s not dead.
This can be done with the upper removed as well, just push the hammer down with your thumb instead of cycling the action.
DO NOT DRY FIRE THE LOWER WITH THE UPPER REMOVED! Doing so will damage the lower where the hammer strikes it. If you do test the FCG without the upper in place, make sure there is something in place to prevent the hammer from hitting the lower
I guess this is just “common sense” to me at this point. As I stated before: I wouldn’t attempt to fire an unsafe rifle, i.e. a rifle that didn’t pass a “function test”.
I would trouble shoot without the suppressor on and run the heaviest buffer you can without the can. You should be able to run the H3 with excellent results without the suppressor. I would try this before getting into anything else really. If it doesn’t run, then I would look deeper.
The H is just way way to light shooting with a can on your rifle. I found an H2 is even on the light side suppressed. Just from my experiences.
If you want to try out an H3 shoot me a PM. I’ll send ya one to run and send it back after your done testing.
