I have a Daniel Defense M4 w/ EoTech 517 and GripPod. I LOVE the gun!
After 6 range sessions and trying different things, I’ve found myself shooting MUCH tighter consistent groups w/ a faster, more precise trigger pull/stroke than w/ a slow one. It’s not a jerk by any means, and I don’t have a flinch (thanks to years of trap shooting). Personally I think the trigger is a lil hard/stiff, which I don’t have a problem with, as I’m not looking to do long-range sniper-type shooting. But after hearing over&over since I was a kid about: taking your time, breathing, relaxing, and making a slow steady squeeze (for best results), I’m finding that doesn’t work as well for me.
On a slow concentrated shot, my shots are also a little bit higher (about 2") than they are with a short quick stroke…
Am I doing something wrong, or am I overthinking stuff (like normal-lol)? Has anyone else experienced anything similar to this?
Thanks much
~Billy
On a slower shot sequence breathing becomes more of an issue. Reflex shooting not so much. When I am shooting at distance or at a slower paste I employ the BRASS system. Breath, Relax , Aim Sight & Squeeze…
Precision is not necessarily gained by going “slow” as much as by being consistent.
I recommend woring on a smooth, gradual increase of trigger pressure. Shooters can go “slow” and not be smooth, just as you can shoot rapidly and still be smooth.
I am a proponent of shooting at the speed that the target demands. If I have an acceptable target are of 6", 6" groups are fine as long as they are centered. If I have an acceptable target area of 3" at 100 meters, I will have to slow down a bit to ensure that my trigger speed allows me to sufficiently clean up the shot as the trigger is moving, which will take more time than when trying to hit a target that is twice the size. Preferably, I am not waiting for my reticle to be perfectly placed before I start pressing the trigger, but rather ensure that the reticle is properly placed as the shot breaks.
Then again, I am not trying to shoot the smallest groups possible, but rather to hit the acceptable target area in the shortest time necessary. Even when I zero I shoot at a fairly decent pace, as I want to center the group with a practical cadence, not at a “bullseye” cadence. I find that my group sizes, when shooting at speed, are smaller with better triggers and exhibit less shift when accelerated.
This is damned good advice
That’s a tuff one, since many variables come to play. Perhaps you know this stuff, and if so, forgive me for presuming. However, by your description, it seems that something may be missing.
You should learn to have good basic trigger control first, then develop cadence. Good trigger control means controlled, even pressure through the break, follow through after the break (continuing through the break and holding the trigger back until ready to take the next shot in the sequence), and good trigger reset without going beyond where you need to reset the trigger. These elements can be developed while dry firing.
Once basic trigger technique is achieved, it should be paired with a relatively slow cadence in the prone position (or with sitting with a bag at the bench), about 1 shot per 5 seconds. With that type shooting, breathing and natural point of aim can be mastered. Vertical stringing will indicate not breaking the shot consistently during the respiratory pause. Horizontal stringing will indicate that you have not attained good natural POA. Other group patterns can be “read” to give you insight into other errors.
(Regarding respiratory pause, some people advocate (and I was taught when young) to inhale, then exhale 3/4, then pause and shoot. I later learned to get good natural point of aim and exhale all the way out to the natural pause, and take the shot. I hold to the second technique as superior, since the repeatability is better, i.e., you always return to the same vertical position when you exhale fully, while stopping partially exhaled is a guessing game. I feel a little more heartbeat when fully exhaled, but that can be dealt with other ways.)
Sight picture is also important and is dependent on what type of sight or optic you use. In any case, consistency is key.
Once you are getting tight, consistent groups, you can translate these skills to faster cadences. When speeding up, breathing becomes less integral, but trigger control and sight picture remain intact. Natural point of aim is not as defined, but good body position is the analogue as speed increases.
I like cadence drills to get consistency in my trigger control. Start slow with very deliberate trigger control - squeeze, follow through, reset, repeat. You can do these prone, sitting or standing. Standing at about 10 yards from the target (or prone at 25 to 30 yards), shoot five shots 1 second apart, then immediately five shots at 1/2 second apart, then five more at 1/4 second apart. You should be able to keep very small groups. If you start losing control, go back to the speed you can control well and work from there until you can move to very rapid shots in small groups.
Depending on the trigger I can take up all the slack and do a slow pull to break the shot and end up squeezing half the “break” where if people want to compare breaking a trigger to breaking a small glass rod I would say it is like cracking the rod up first before it finally gives, the end result is a not so clean shot. If I go about it and do a quick break of the trigger I get more the snapping of a glass rod feel.
This is generally not a problem unless your going for precision shooting and need every fraction of MOA possible. “Combat” accuracy from all that I can tell is achievable either way. Can get into a trigger that breaks clean no matter how you pull it and getting the best accuracy with a slow pull but the question is whether it is even needed and most will say no and often there is no practical difference either.