I’m getting a Streamlight TLR-3 for my M&P Compact. Will the mount swap over to a standard rail section on an AR (for home defense), or is it an entirely different animal?
Jeff
The TLR-3 comes with 5 different “keys” - little adapters that allow the light to interface with different weapon systems. You may have to change that little adapter but it will work with either.
I run a TLR-3 on my G17 and my Carbine (sometimes a TLR-1s)
I was thinking about doing the same thing and mounting a TLR-3 on my rifle, I was going to add the remote door and preasure switch on mine and some rail clips to hold up the wire so I can use my vert grip. Does anyone in here run a similar setup and do you have any insight on the idea, I am trying to reduce the weight of my rifle while still maintaining a weapon light???
What do ya think???
As mentioned, those Streamlights come with various “keys” that need to be inserted to fit various rails since different pistols tend to have different rail dimension. One of those “keys” that come with the TLR-3 is one that lets it mount on a standard Picatinney rail. Fortunately for your plan, the S&W M&P series is one of the relatively few pistol models that uses that Picatinney key, so you can install that key in the light and then easily swap the light back and forth from rifle to pistol without any other diddling around. It’s a great plan, I do the same with a TLR-1 between my SBR and M&P 9L. Very convenient. Fortunately, the standard switch configuration puts it close to my thumb so that I can activate it easily when it’s on the rifle. I also use a TLR-3 on my Walther PPS. Unfortunately, the PPS requires a different key so that that TLR-3 won’t mount on a Picatinney rail solidly (too much slop). You won’t have that problem with your M&P.
The TLR-3 does it for me as well. The keys are each labeled with letters and with the ‘D’ key installed it works on both my M&P40 and my AR. Here it is on my AR:
To my knowledge we (Streamlight) do not make a remote door and/or pressure swtich for the TLR-3… and I have a pretty good handle on the product. That said, if you mount the light where you can “finger” it, it is probably better. The less components of the machine, the more reliable but it is shooters preference.
I have now broken 2 of the TLR-3’s due to the plastic body and mount. On the side with the thumb screw, right at the thinnest part of the plastic where it goes over the rail section(the < basically, right at the tip of it). Broke both in the same place. Not putting them on with a screw driver, coin or anything except finger tight. I am not even using them in a holster(since I am to cheap to buy a light mount holster). Streamlight replaced the first one, need to call them about the second one(just figured out it was broken in the same place the other day). I dont trust the light anymore. My TLR-1 with the aluminum body has been a rock solid light. I am going to try to get them to swap me out for a TLR-1.
rjacobs: Definitely send it back to Streamlight repairs. Worst case you spend $7 in shipping, they send it back and we can potentially improve the product. Best case you get a new light back to sell on eBay and we can potentially improve the product.
I have not heard of anyone braking a TLR-3 off a handgun. I know of more than a few guys using them on a carbine “hard” without any issues - yet.
I will take some pics on Tuesday when I get home and PM them to you. I have a TLR1 on my carbine that has been 100%. The TLR3 has just broken twice now in the same spot. I would be thrilled to get a TLR1 swap which I am for sure going to ask them about it when I call.