Time to update the pew-pew

Wow it’s been a looooonnnngggg time since I was on here! Even longer since I’ve done much of anything to the boomstick - ten years, I think. I need to update to all the fancy new gear I haven’t kept up with. So, for those of you who have been keeping up, I need some advice. Main goal is to lighten this thing up. For example, the Troy rail is way too chunky. Don’t mind the barrel length. I sawed off the front sight post and kept it as a low-profile gas block (carbine length gas).

Current (woefully old) setup:

Lower:
-Stag lower
-standard trigger
-MagPul MOE stock
-BCM Gunfighter grip mod (1st gen)

Upper:
-Troy 13.5 Battle Rail
-Magpul MS3 (newest edition to the rifle).
-Magpul Mbus (1st gen)
-Rainier Arms complete upper (5.56 NATO, 16", DD bolt carrier, BCM Gunfighter CH, forgot what break is on)
-Aimpoint Pro
-Viking Tactics light holder
-Cheapo Surefire pushbutton light.

Looks pretty good.
How does it shoot?

Honestly I’d probably just run it as is for a while to be sure you even want to change anything, but if you’re really wanting to cut some weight an MLOK rail would be a good choice. The BCM MCMR is a popular choice, I don’t care for them because they’re too narrow for my taste but they’re good rails.

What needs to be changed?

Other than the handguard, which you could switch out for a 12.5” Troy SOCC if you can find one.

If you HAVE to change something my preference would be:

MOE SL or BCM Gunfighter stock.
Geissele Trigger or similar.
Switch to MBUS Pros rather than polymer.
Tapered barrel (Core, BRT or similar).
MK16 rail or similar.
Trade PRO for a Micro.

Yeah, dmd has a good list. If you are just looking for weight savings a rail and Micro dot will make a significant difference. If you have an AP Micro, the poly MBUS are fine (will never need them :slight_smile: ).

The price vs performance of triggers has improved drastically in the last 10 years. A Centurion, Larue, or Gisselle 2 stage trigger is a nice upgrade.

Lights have come a long way as well and a new light will be significantly brighter.

Andy

All good suggestions.
She shoot great, though I need to re-zero now that we’ve finished moving into the new house here in TX. I think I will switch to either Mlok or Keymod–the Troy still feels like it wants to punish my hands. That and the plastic clips on the rail to smooth it out also add to the weight issue.
I’m old school and was trained to zero on iron sights so I might upgrade to sturdier ones. I have also been eyeballing the Vortex micros (not shelling out $700 for the Aimpoint micro).
I have a stripped lower I’ve been meaning to build, but if I do it will be a long range set up, prob. 7.62. I might just mover around some components between the two.

Personally I wouldn’t buy a key mod rail at this point. I have keymod rails. And key mod has worked for me. But I’m in the “keymod is dead” camp.

Building a 7.62 AR is a whole different ball of wax. Especially if your stripped lower is an AR15 lower…

dmd08 - I’ve been catching up regarding the Mlok v Keymod battle. What is your biggest gripe against it, and what are you switching(ed) to?

I have keymod rails set up the way I wanted using keymod accessories. They’re fine and I’m not switching them out. But any new rail I’ve purchased in the last several years and any I would buy in the future would be mlok or picatinny.

I do think mlok is a stronger design than keymod. I like the recoil lug design and the straight in attachment method vs the sliding design of keymod.

But the biggest reason in my mind is due to seeing far more manufacturer support for mlok than keymod. I’m not shopping for parts much these days but I couldn’t tell you the last time I saw a keymod rail advertised. I like options and I feel like mlok has more. Just my perspective. I could be wrong.

There really isn’t much need to compare the pros and cons of keymod vs mlok. The amount of support for mlok in 2022 is reason enough to choose it.

Andy