This might be a stupid question / situation, but I still need an answer.
I have a Tikka T3x TAC A1 in .308. 20" barrel with a Sandman L can on it.
I’ve tried mounting two different optics on it, a Sig Tango6 4-18x and Nightforce 4-14x SHV F1.
Both of those optics came right off of two other precision builds where I had no problems with them.
The gun shoots and is grouping great, 1 MOA or better accuracy right out of the box with no break in… but its printing about 8"-12" high at 100 yards. … and i can’t adjust either optic’s elevation turret to get it any lower. I’ve bottomed/ maxed them both out. (my zero stop is not the issue)
I was initially zeroing with a zero MOA cantilever mount before I found out the Tikka has a zero moa base by default. I reinstalled my scope into a 20 MOA base cantilever mount and I still have the same problem.
Shooting great groups but printing several inches high and I cant adjust elevation any further. Never had this problem before with a rifle.
Am I missing something or is there something else going on?
the Nightforce SHV doesnt have a zero stop, it just lets you loosen the cap to re set it to zero,
The Sig Tango 6 does and the zero stop is not engaged although after watching a few videos on it im wondering if mine is broken.
I switched back to the 0 MOA mount and remounted it again and ill try again. If its the same results I might contact Sig.
The SHV has a zero set, which is a little bit different than the Nightforce Zero Stop (what the ATACR series has).
Maybe its semantics but its two different systems but thats how NF refers to it as.
Done that 3 times, same problem. (and its torqued properly).
Ive re-centered the topic to where its mechanical center should be for elevation and windage. One by taking the max adjustment range and dividing by 2 and also by using the mirror trick. So my zero stops are def. not engaged when I was bottomed out. Im beginning to wonder if something is messed with the rifle top receiver rail or something maybe. Now that ive used two different scopes and several different mounts. Still shoots great, just consistently high.
No, the top rail can only go on one way from the factory due to the screw hole placements and the cut out for what looks like a barrel nut type of thing (not the right term but for the point of conversation). The receiver rail where u mount the optic base is about 0.5mm higher than the rail on the handguard though. Not sure if its supposed to be flush but it is very slightly higher.
Maybe call Tikka and see what they say at this point.
Do you have a way of posting a picture showing where the optic base is barely higher than the handguard? I know it might be challenging to capture that in a photo.
Just to be sure, you’re not attaching the scope mount between the handguard and the top of the receiver, right? The scope should be mounted to the receiver only.
Make sure there is a gap between the front of the rail and the rear of the handguard. There is no specific spec for how wide of a gap, but there needs to be a gap. Filing the front of the scope mount until there is is the way to do it.
If there isn’t a gap, the scope rail and fore end rail can wedge together and lift the front of the scope rail.
