This is my rifle, there aren't any like it because, this one is mine. Build w/Pix

Occasionally I build duplicates of existing designs but, usually I try to come up with something original so, I need a concept to challenge myself to develop a unique configuration. Being a military firearms aficionado and collector, I have some idea what make a military rifle tick, or not. So, the challenge for this build is, if the military asked me what their current AR based combat rifle should look like, what would I come up with? Like many people here, I could think of twenty different ideas in ten minutes but, I need to come up with just one so, I would go with something like this.

Carbines are useful but, there is just something about a rifle that is hard to beat. Not that I would get rid of the M4, just keep it more for where and when a compact carbine is really needed and issue this as a general purpose, more reliable, harder hitting option. Of course we all know it’s not that simple and the world of military procurement is full of intrigue, politics, exotic women and other enticements so, I wouldn’t stand a chance. Even so, here is my idea.

Also, by using a S&W M&P15 receiver, I’m showing what their top of the line model could look like… if they dared.
Come on… I dare ya… go for it… 4150 barrel, HPT/MPI barrel & bolt and all.

The design is similar in some ways to a Mk 12 SPR except, instead of being a sniper rifle, the purpose of this is a combat / utility rifle, a bit more compact than a M16A2 and able to deliver more of a punch than a M4. The shorter 18" inch barrel and an A1 stock make it more maneuverable than a M16A2 without compromising performance and while larger than a M4, it’s 3.5" of extra barrel give an important speed boost to the velocity dependent 5.56 round. The barrel’s profile gives it an advantage over both.


Sorry S&W… Being able to build your own ARs means you can build a better M&P15 than Smith & Wesson.

I always start with the barrel and then integrate everything else around that. As the barrels is the heart of the gun, I’m picky about what one I chose and recently, I’ve been doing some further research in to the subject. So, the starting point for this build is a Sabre Defence 18" fluted MIL-B-11595E Chrome Moly Vanadium (CMV) steel HPT/MPI barrel with hard chrome lining, 1:7 twist and a mil-spec 5.56 NATO chamber. Mil-spec is the most misused term in the AR dictionary but, Sabre is one of the select few companies to ever be awarded a contract to build genuine mil-spec ARs for the DOD. Every Sabre barrel is subjected the same ISO quality control regimen used for their military contracts, with both scheduled and random inspections performed at all stages of the manufacturing process including multiple borescope inspections before and after chrome plating and during the rifling and chambering processes. All Sabre barrels are marked with lot numbers, tracing them to specific material certifications, machinists and even machines used. Also, because only a few gun manufacturers build weapons for the military, most don’t have ready access to the special alloys used. On an ongoing basis, Sabre purchase premium mil-spec barrel steel, MIL-B-11595E Chrome Moly Vanadium (CMV), in the only way it’s available, by the mill run in massive 93,000 pound quantities, that are then consumed to manufacture 5.56, 7.62 and .50 caliber barrels. All of this puts them in a unique position to deliver barrels with a level of quality the private sector rarely have access to, at economical prices most others can’t match.


Sabre employees merge cutting-edge technology with old fashioned craftsmanship in their barrel production area.
Sabre’s barrel production facility is a integration of the latest gizmos with tried and true machines.
This is a fairly unique approach and indicates people who really understand their craft.


Morris Blanton, Sabre’s quality manager, uses a Hawkeye borescope and video system to inspect a finished AR-15 barrel.
(picture courtesy of Modern Machine Shop)

Meticulously made from the best materials, this barrel starts almost exactly like a slightly shortened mil-spec M-16 barrel but, then it’s improved by keeping it the proper thickness and cutting fluting the whole length, except at the gas block, for lighter weight, with more rigidity and better cooling. Just like a heat sink used in electronics, the fluted barrel provides more surface area for cooling and also makes a barrel that is stronger for it’s weight than a similar round barrel. Being a medium contour barrel and thicker before the gas block instead of pencil thin like the government profile, not only makes it more rigid, with less whip and therefore, more accurate but, also able withstand more continuous firing. Even so, the flutes mean it is close to the same weight as the government profile.

This barrel has a mid length gas system which is a bit of a strange choice on Sabre’s part for two reasons. First, when compared to a rifle length system, going with a shorter mid-length gas system increases average operating pressure, increasing stress on the action.

Second, when the distance between the gas port and the end of the barrel increases, dwell time, or the time that gas is pushed into the action increases, over gassing the action and increasing stress. This 18" barrel with a mid-length system has 8.2 inches after the gas port as opposed to the standard M16 with a rifle gas system and 20" barrel, which has 6.8" and is generally considered about ideal.

However, I really like this barrel and it isn’t so problematic that it can’t be fixed, it just requires some fine tuning. So, I used a Wolff Extra Power Action Spring. By resisting the carrier’s rearward movement, the stronger buffer spring slows down the unlocking of the bolt. This has a similar effect to having a longer gas system, as pressure will have dropped further by the time the bolt does open, meaning it takes less force to extract the spent round from the chamber. Also, by the time extraction occurs, the bullet will have traveled further down the barrel, having a similar effect to reducing dwell time. Solving the issues with this barrel, the Wolff Extra Power Action Spring Reduces the forces on, and velocity of the action, reducing stress and recoil, and consequently increasing overall reliability.

The bolt and carrier are regular LMT. The carrier is M16 for the correct mass and the fact that if this were a military rifle it would be full-auto. The bolt is a proper shot peened 158 Carpenter steel, HPT/MPI checked unit and, for improved durability, has some of the stress relieving radius cuts, found on the special LMT bolt lugs.

The Vortex flash hider isn’t an absolute must over an A2. It is an A+ flash hider but, scores an F- for recoil control. On the other hand, how much recoil control do you need for what is essentially a full size 5.56 rifle? I experienced no problem keeping it on target for follow up shots as, since tuning with the correct recoil spring, the rifles’s recoil is mild.

Setting the new standard by being selected by SOCOM for the SOPMOD II program and by the UK MoD as well, the highly successful Daniel Defense M4A1 RIS II T6 aluminum handguard free floats the barrel, and also a M203 if attached, insuring an unstressed barrel for undisturbed accuracy. I have the similar Daniel Defense 7.62 Lite 12 rail on my AR-10 M110 type rifle and both rails use the same patented Bolt Up method of securing it to the rifle, which is extremely solid. The RIS II has the added advantage of a removable bottom making it simple to inspect the gas block and clean off the barrel. The one draw back is it requires you to buy a custom barrel wrench but, it is only $10.

The light weight ERGO RIBLOCK rail covers provide excellent grip and insulation. I really like the ribs and the solid, hand full feeling in your hand plus, they isolate you from the warmth radiating from the barrel, yet don’t block the air flow for cooling. Unlike many covers, they are easy to slide on and of with no risk of scratching the anodizing yet, stay firmly locked in place.

Similar to the VLTOR/BCM handles, the new Badger Ordnance Gen II tactical latch is well designed and a big improvement over the first generation. It gives you a firm grip with less chance of snagging and allows charging with either hand. While pricey, the Norgon mag release is a beautiful piece of engineering and craftsmanship. Having flexible, ambidextrous fire control, charging handle and magazine release are a benefit to any operator, left or right handed. (I already consider the bolt release to be ambidextrous as all you do is squeeze the top of the receiver with either hand and I’m not a big fan of clunky external levers like the B.A.D)

With the Aimpoint M2 - M68/CCO co-witnessed with the irons in the bottom third, it has fairly standard good quality red dot optics, which in this age should be the norm for every soldier’s rifle in combination with iron sights. You still need the iron sights for backup and long range shots but, the faster target acquisition and improved situational awareness of having a red dot with both eyes open are a real plus in the dynamic complexity of combat. The Aimpoint’s biggest drawback is, by it’s self, it is extremely difficult to figure holdover for distance. An ACOG would be a perfectly acceptable sight as well and solves the holdover problem without resorting to iron sights. On another rifle I have one of the new two dot EoTechs, which address the holdover problem well. However, I find an EoTech slightly better for rapid target acquisition and an Aimpoint better for precise aiming at a point. Maybe that is why it is called an Aimpoint?

I set up at 25 meters to sight the rifle in, first the irons and then the Aimpoint. To test both function and accuracy, I tried a wide selection of ammo including M-193 55gr. Guatemalan 55gr. and Prvi Partizan 62gr. & 75gr. JHP all with respectable results. Once I had everything dialed in I had no problem keeping every shot in the 1" center ring. I was shooting with the front of the rifle in the palm of my left hand supported by the pictured Remington rest and the back supported by my right hand and shoulder so, I wasn’t even using a fully supported front and rear shooting rest yet, was easily able at achieve these results. This target represents a typical grouping and with that, I’m looking forward to shooting at further distances and with some Black Hills 77gr. SMK ammo. I’m thinking my research into who is turning out quality barrels seem to have paid off and this rifle may be more capable of holding it’s own against a Mk12 than I thought. While at this distance it is too soon to reach any conclusions about ultimate accuracy, for the first time shooting a rifle, things don’t work out much better than this.

While not exactly camouflage, the flat dark earth color forearm, stock, pistol grip, magazine, optic cover and rail covers helps conceal the weapon by breaking up the all black exterior. Being a basic earth tone it blends in anywhere from the city to the jungle, integrating with both natural and man made backgrounds. It is a highly flexible color that will work just about anywhere with the possible exception of the North Pole or Antarctica.

  • 18" Sabre Defence fluted MIL-B-11595E Chrome Moly Vanadium (CMV) steel HPT/MPI barrel with hard chrome lining 1:7 twist and 5.56 NATO chamber.
  • JD Machine Low Profile Gas Block - 303 Stainless/Black Oxide Finnish
  • Smith Enterprise G6A2 Vortex Flash Eliminator - 5.56
  • Daniel Defense M4A1 RIS II Quad Rail Free Float Tube Handguard T6 aluminum Type II Hard Coat Anodized in SOCOM approved Flat Dark Earth w/ removable bottom
  • LMT HPT/MPI bolt & LMT M16 carrier
  • Badger Ordnance Tactical Latch Gen II on forged charging handle
  • Wolff Precision Gunsprings, Extra Power Action Spring.
  • YHM A3 upper receiver w/extended M4 feed ramps and “T” Markings, plated per MIL A-8625
  • Spikes Tactical “Made in USA” w/flag dust cover (Reminder of who you are fighting for, in case of head trauma.)
  • MaTech 600M rear sight
  • MI H&K type hooded diopter folding front sight
  • Aimpoint COMPM2 - M68/CCO 4 MOA red dot optic w/ kill flash and rubber protective cover
  • Aimpoint QRP2 Picatinny Mount, Spacer and Ring.
  • Smith & Wesson M&P15 Lower Receiver MIL A-8625 hard coat anodized
  • Armalite lower parts kit (LPK w/o Trigger)
  • LMT Tactical Two Stage trigger assembly
  • Norgon left side magazine release
  • Stag Arms ambidextrous fire selector
  • Knights Armament Combat Trigger Guard
  • ERGO Gapper trigger guard/receiver gap filler
  • ERGO RIBLOCK FDE rail covers
  • ERGO Suregrip FDE Pistol Grip
  • Cavalry Arms FDE A1 Stock
  • MagPul PMAG FDE 20rd. & 30rd. Magazines.

So, that is my take on what the current issue US military rifle should be like. Everything is mil-spec and ready to go off the shelf although, it is probably too nice a rifle to be considered standard issue. As a loyal supporter of my country and it’s military, they are welcome to use my idea for free but, at that price, I’m sorry, I can’t provide exotic women and bribes. Also, I do apologize, I don’t have the obligatory promo picture of me, in face paint, rising out of the water with the rifle. Because of that, they will totally ignore me but, at least I end up with a nice rifle to add to my collection. Oh yeah… if Smith and Wesson want to make this their new top of the line M&P15, that’s fine to but please, hook me up with a nice pile of AR parts to tinker with or an exotic woman or maybe both?

That is a real nice stick you built. I like it alot.

Great build and great documentation and pictures, too. Thanks for this thread!

Thats exactly what (IMHO) the M16A4 shouldve been. A refined, slightly shorter battle rifle that gets away from the black color.

Very nice.

I like it. Nice write up and Photo’s . How much did it cost to build? Is there a relibility issue with a rifle length gas system and an 18" bbl? I agree with you it would be nice ifit worked. Otherwise a n16" middy would be cool.How much shorter is the A1 stock? I shouldered one the other day on an old gun and really liked it.

The only thing I would want different would be the ability to fix a bayonet because some times you just need one. Nice project thanks for sharing.

Very Nice! Wish my M&P came from Smith that way!

Thank for the compliments, I’m glad you like it. I do.

How much did it cost to build? Is there a relibility issue with a rifle length gas system and an 18" bbl?

As for price I have a 03 C&R FFL so, I get discounts from places like Midway and Brownells which can really help. I also shop for bargains and sales. I almost never add up the final price but, as you asked, without shipping it comes to just above $2100 in parts.

I don’t think I will have any trouble getting the rifle to run reliably but, as I said, the mid-length gas system does seem a strange choice on a 18" barrel. If the ideal gas port to muzzle length is 6.8", a rifle length system gives you too little with 4.8" and a mid-length gives you too much with 8.2". This is why some companies have started using a new length called intermediate which is between mid-length and rifle to give 18" barrels the theoretically ideal dwell distance of about 6.8".

At first, to address the situation, I tried a LMT Advanced carrier. The Advanced carrier has a different profile for the cam pin that slows down the unlocking of the bolt. However, it proved to be to much and the action did not cycle. So, then I switched to a normal LMT carrier with the stronger Wolff spring because it also slows down the the unlocking of the bolt but, to a lesser degree. It seems to be running well now but, I have not had enough rounds through the rifle to pronounce it 100%. I’ll post updates as I get more rounds through the rifle.

Obviously, the designers and engineers of these barrels are aware of and know more about these issues than most of us. These problems can be adjusted for by changing the diameter of the gas port hole. Too short a distance and you can compensate by making the hole larger. Too long a distance and you can compensate by making the hole smaller. So, I may be trying to fix a problem that has already been addressed. If so, I will just end up running stock parts but, I like to experiment so, I am trying several different things first. I may discover a way to make the rifle run better, I may not. Either way I’ll have some fun and learn a thing or two along the way. Of course, I’m also prepared to come in this forum and share my observations so, we can all exchange ideas and learn more about our rifles and what makes them tick.

How much shorter is the A1 stock? I shouldered one the other day on an old gun and really liked it.

The first AR I bought, and fortunately I still own, is a SP-1. That was back in the days when all ARs came with A1 stocks and triangle handguards. So, to me an A1 is normal. (For some reason that makes me sound much older than I am. I’m WAY too young to have fought in Vietnam.) It certainly is the most flexible fixed size stock as even a large person can use it but, if you are small and/or wearing body armor, it works much better than an A2.

The only thing I would want different would be the ability to fix a bayonet because some times you just need one.

It seems in current military doctrine the bayonet is out of style although, I think it still has a place in combat. To me, having a long sharp stick or a pike or how ever you want to look at it, is such a basic weapon that it can’t go out of use anymore than a knife. Long after repeating arms were invented, more than a few face to face battles were decided with a bayonet. Someone needs either to come up with a rail or flash hider only mounted bayonet.

Wish my M&P came from Smith that way!

Well, I did the best I can do by taunting them with a good challenge at the beginning, the rest is up to them.

Very nice. My version would probably have a variable power optic of sort and a bipod. My preference, though.

The A1 stock is a great choice.

I like builds where someone obviously thought out exactly what they wanted it for before ordering parts. Looks good and is probably a lot of fun to shoot!

Wow DW, what a great project! I really appreciate your attention to detail and the reasoning/background info you provided on the various parts and aspects of the build. Your write-up is excellent, and I really like the rifle. Thansk for taking the time to put all of that together for us.

Beautiful and a Nice write up.

I am loving this build. I have a stainless sabre barrel of the same contour that I plan to build with and A1 stock, Troy rail and 1-4x scope. Besides some small preferences we pretty much have the same idea. Glad to know someone else appreciates 18" barrels with solid stocks.

This looks like a perfect build to complement my Mk18 Mod 1 clone.

I love the DD Mk18 RISII and am really digging the looks of your M4 RIS as well. Only one part I may change on my build is an ACOG as I have a CQB weapon.

Great job man.

A lot of us here all seem to be thinking alike, such as the suggestions about scopes. I have several ARs with scopes including a Colt 6721 with an ACOG and I just finished a Recce build with a 1.5-5x optic, similar to what a previous posts described. It has a 16" Saber stainless barrel, with the same fluted configuration. They make that barrel in 16" 18" and 20" in stainless but, only in 18" in chrome lined CMV so, I chose to use the CMV for this build and the stainless 16" for the Recce.

Judging from both Sabre barrels, you won’t be disappointed. I think Saber has managed to climb on to the top shelf of AR barrel makers where it has some good company. I also have AR barrels from Noveske, BCM and Daniel Defense that I am satisfied with and I’m sure I’ll buy from them again but, Saber will be a contender as well, given their quality and price.

I’d like to take full credit for the idea of an 18" barrel with a solid stock but, it was seeing some Mk12s configured that way that got me thinking it was a good idea. A lot of the inspiration behind this rifle was from studying the Mk12 and thinking it’s a nice sniper rifle and, with a few changes like switching to a chrome lined barrel and a shorter range sights, it could make a good utility/battle rifle.

Life is a journey, not a destination. To me, the thinking, planing and patiently collecting the parts is a big part of the experience and adventure of undertaking a project like this. Plus, it usually means better results and more enjoyment of the finished product. My advice to anyone planing an AR build is, first figure out just what it is you are trying to achieve.

A big part of my research into this product was browsing through the posts on this site, which are full of great info so, I figured it was only fair to describe what I did and contribute back. Well… yeah… that and showing off my nice new rifle.

I have now built three ARs in three months and I think it’s time to take break, get out of the workshop and put some rounds down range.

I hear ya.

Most of the fun for me on a new rifle is the research and slowly collecting all the pieces. Only problem is I see so many good ideas here my plans change, parts get sold (at a loss usually, lol) or traded.

Then usually after 2 or 3 months I tire of it, sell the upper or complete rifle and start over.

Very nice weapon…you certainly did your homework :slight_smile:

Did your barrel come with the sabre gill brake? If so did you shoot with it one? I am trying to decide if I should keep mine or replace it with something else, but I have heard very little actual reports on this brake.

First, let me compliment the OP for a VERY nice writeup and great pics of his new build.

Excellent choice of components too I might add.

About the Gill brake…

Clock/time that monkey!

I personally don’t own a weapon with the gill brake on it but, three of my customers do.

When fired off hand and unsupported the weapon had a decided hook or hop to the right.

Clocking/timing the brake towards 11o’clock (as you look down the barrel) helps control it markedly.

It’s extremely noticeable in the 16" version and I had to increase the size of the right hand “gills” slightly in order to get more gas pressure.

THAT took awhile :). Me,a set of files, and a case of ammo at the range.

file file file BANG… nope not yet… file file file … bang… nope…

Wasn’t a hard job… just tedious.

Thanks for the heads up. I will probably shoot it some and then decide if it needs replacing/retiming. The FSC556 and the Rainier Arms Tactical compensator are calling to me. I cannot resist prongs.