The Car Detailing Thread

General General Discussion
1

Most “gun guys” are also “car guys.” I have always enjoyed taking car of my cars, but with working two jobs, training, family, etc, I had to let this go. Recently, I have decided to get back into it and have been buying a lot of the car detailing products on the market to see if they work as advertised.

I have also been reading a lot of “professional” detailing forums. Lot’s of good info out there, but just like gun forums, you have to figure out who the professionals are (people that actually do the work for a living) and the ones that are not.

This thread is meant for folks to share info about products that worked, products that didn’t, tips and tricks and any other valuable info.

So for starters, here is some info on Headlight restoration.

I have a 2002 Lexus that has a lot of rock chips in the headlight lenses (fog lights as well). They vary in depth, but are everywhere. So much so that they are reducing the capability of the lights.

Here is what I did to correct the problem:

  1. Wash the headlights.
  2. Use 600 grit wet sandpaper (let it soak in warm water for 15 minutes) on the lens. Keep the lens wet and move in the same direction. Wipe clean and hit the deeper rock chips as needed.
  3. Use 1000 grit wet sandpaper (same steps as above).
  4. Use 1500 grit wet sandpaper (same steps as above).
  5. Use 3000 grit wet sandpaper (same steps as above).
  6. Clean and tape around the lens (using painters tape).
  7. Meguiar’s G17216 Ultimate Compound applied generously to the lens.
  8. Using an orange cutting pad on my Porter Cable 7424XP (setting 5), I buffed the lens.
  9. Cleaned the lens and do steps 7 and 8 again.
  10. Clean and examine for scratches.
  11. Sprayed the lens with Plexus.
  12. Using a soft buffing pad on my PC7424XP, polish the lens.
  13. Clean and examine.

All in all, it took about 30 minutes per lens. The results are simply fantastic!

Before pic of the lens

Lens after 600gr Wet Sanding

Lens after 3000gr Wet Sanding

Megs UC applied

Orange cutting pad on my PC

Plexus (used to polish the lens)

Buffing pad on my PC

Finished result

2

Very nice work friend. I am interested in keeping an eye on this thread. I too love cars, although I prefer European engineering to American or Japanese.

3

Thanks. As a long time Japanese car fan, I recently bought a BMW Convertible. I must say that I am warming up to the way German’s do things. :wink:

C4

4

That is cool Grant. I will admit that that sort of work on my cars is the last thing on my mind. I appreciate it but have so many other things to do that I don’t even thing about it.

My problem now is how to refinish two places on my truck where I brushed up against things on turns in tight places and have some dents that have hard creases (versus soft dents) and the paint has cracked off along the crease… I just want to protect against rust. Don’t care to get rid of the dents.

5

I was the same way. Then it came to my attention that if I don’t take care of what I own, why would I ever be given something nicer?

My problem now is how to refinish two places on my truck where I brushed up against things on turns in tight places and have some dents that have hard creases (versus soft dents) and the paint has cracked off along the crease… I just want to protect against rust. Don’t care to get rid of the dents.

If they are through the clear coat and paint, then you will have some rust issues. Get some 3000gr wet sandpaper and clean out the area. Get a touch up primer pen and then the matching body paint (I like paint pens as they are cheap and easy to use).

Here is where I buy mine: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/

C4

6

I’m a bit of a detailing nut myself.

Tools:

Products:

  • Optimum No Rinse: This stuff is fantastic. Diluted properly it works as a detailer spray, or as a clay lube. Added to your car wash mix it grabs dirt and lifts it off of your paint so it doesn’t scratch the finish. Works beautifully when used in conjunction with a good soap and a foam gun.

  • Meguiar’s Professional medium clay: There’s enough clay in that jar to last you for years. I bought my jar a few years ago and I just broke into the 2nd half of it, even after a bunch of uses.

  • 303 Aerospace Protectant: Best rubber/vinyl protectant on the market.

A couple of detail jobs I’ve done:

Before:




After:





Before:




After:






7

Good stuff JW777!

I like the grit guard bucket. I am currently just using the two bucket method of washing.

For pads, I am using the ones made by Sonus. So far so good, but hear good things about LC.

For wheels, have you tried the SONAX Xtreme Wheel Cleaner Full Effect yet? http://www.sonax.com/Car-Care/Products/Tyres-Rims-Rubber/(so)/1/(node)/12815/230200-SONAX-Xtreme-Wheel-cleaner-full-effect

It is awesome to say the least. It sprays on green and when it is done eating brake dust, it turns blood red (letting you know it is done working). Pretty cool stuff!

C4

8

I don’t disagree. And the “problem” is one of the reasons I am working to switch my business to SW development and development consulting (iPhone/iPad) instead of what I have been doing the last 9 years. If I can sell off my remaining inventory I will be done with the switch. Should help me alleviate some of the stresses if it works out and I can work hard so that I have more time to take care of the normal day to day as well as spend with my family.

If they are through the clear coat and paint, then you will have some rust issues. Get some 3000gr wet sandpaper and clean out the area. Get a touch up primer pen and then the matching body paint (I like paint pens as they are cheap and easy to use).

Here is where I buy mine: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/

C4

Cool, thanks. This is one thing I need to address before winter as yes, the clear coat and paint is through on the creases. Thanks for the pointer.

9

Yet another great tip! Thanks. I have to work on my wheels as well to avoid long term damage from brake dust etc.

10

It took me a long time to embrace the foam gun, but once I tried it I thought I was an idiot for not doing it sooner. I use Meguiar’s Gold Class (relatively cheap and readily available) in the reservoir along with a capfull of ONR. I spray the entire vehicle down and let it sit for 10 minutes or so, then I spray the whole thing down again and then spray down each panel as I wash with a good clean microfiber mitt. The bucket is full of clean water. The mitt gets plunged and scrubbed after every contact with sheet metal.

The foam gun essentially becomes my 2nd bucket.

For wheels, have you tried the SONAX Xtreme Wheel Cleaner Full Effect yet? http://www.sonax.com/Car-Care/Products/Tyres-Rims-Rubber/(so)/1/(node)/12815/230200-SONAX-Xtreme-Wheel-cleaner-full-effect

I haven’t tried that stuff yet. For wheels I just spray them down with my usual car-wash mixture and go after them with a relatively soft-bristled brush. My wheels usually don’t get so dirty that they require a dedicated cleaner. I’m willing to give it a shot, though…especially for when I pull the wheels to clean the insides of them.

11

I absolutely HATE car washing. Some of you guys look good enough to hire!:smiley:

12

Ahh… detailing, one of the things that I dont have time for.

If you name it, I have it…

Any of you guys use Wolfgang Fuzion yet? Not the best pic, but you can see the weather was limiting.

Absolutely love it, unfortunately I haven’t done more than wash my cars this past year. I used to do some detailing for cash and to buy product but those days are gone.

Foam gun:

I love it, but it almost becomes a PITA. I generally mix up a gallon of whatever soap I wanna use and store it to make things easier, but there always seems to be a mess. I have been using the ONR and Lake Country sponge more than anything.

Pads:

Lake Country 5.5" and 4". I use the 4" with the hand thing as well so I can machine apply wax/sealant with the red pad and use it by hand as to not lose product priming the pads.

Wheel cleaner:

P21S Concentrated gel.

Headlights:

Wetsand only. I have used Plast-X as a final before but the right paper has done just fine.

Correction:

Menzerna (solves tough German paint), but I need to try 105/205, I hear great things about it, just havent used it. I also have #80/#83, and the Pinnacle XMT series.

LSP:

Wolfgang Fuzion, Liquid Souveran, Poorboys Nattys R/W/B (blue is the best by far), Collinite Insulators wax, Megs NXT 2.0 (for family cars), and a few others

Sealants:

Wolfgang, Optimum Opti-seal, and a few others I cant remember right now.

Here is one of the last cars I did:


13

All your lists look like stuff I have recently bought or am about to buy.

I have some of the Megs 105/205 and will post how it works out.

I am currently using the Megs NXT wash and NXT wax. Will do another write up on the results.

C4

14

The NXT wash is nice, but their detailer series Hyperwashis just as good from my experiences. I got the pump and it truly is 3 pumps per gallon of water. I add an oz or two of Optimum No-Rinse for good measure. I think if you have more than one vehicle the Hyperwash will be a better route. Of course half the fun is accumulating stuff.

For winter, as you will see the same garbage we do.

15

Careful with the orbital buffers, gents…you can easily burn paint if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Stippling a $500 Glock is more forgiving than polishing a $10k+ car.

16

They are dual action, not orbital, so there is little worry about the paint.

17

Right. This is one of the things that concerned me and why I got the PCXP.

C4

18

Plexus works wonders on clear bras. I am lucky enough to have a few friends in the area who own their own detailing companies and they offer me a good price. I try to take good care of my BMW. One thing I think every car person should invest their money in is a California dusters. Works wonders at keeping a clean car clean. Hopefully I can share some tips from the detailers and I will throw a pick of the car up later for the car buffs.

19

I found these guys about 15 years ago its all I use and all of my car buddy use there products to. And every car detailing shop around here uses them to. Very good products.
http://www.snproducts.net/index.cfm

20

clay bar does freaking wonders for a cars paintjob. So much crap that a car wash cant get off gets removed with a clay bar