I almost have all the parts for my build. Trying to push the envelope a bit. Based on the handguard, light, and laser I’ve selected things are getting crowded. I’m not sure how it will balance once fully assembled, but wanted to get some thoughts from others here.
The SF switch will get zip tied most likely - not sure if I’ll bother with attaching a rail between it and the handguard. Also, as my research indicated the switch is really designed for an ATPIAL rather than a CQBL. It may need something to ensure it stays put in the laser. It activates it but doesn’t feel very secure. This won’t be a duty weapon but I don’t baby my rifles.
Yes, the laser will be a backup to the optic rather than have BUIS.
The piece securing the light to the handguard is from Magpul and with the light set a little back it just clears the laser. I’d hoped for a side by side mount but it won’t fit. I originally planned for the Unity Fusion clamp to mount a light but didn’t want to have the light connected to the laser. I’d hate for an impact to the light affecting zero. I’m hoping the configuration here will allow the light to take the bump and minimize impact transfer to the laser.
Still a work in progress and as mentioned, it may change when I get the rifle assembled. Still interested in hearing y’all’s thoughts and suggestions. Thanks!
It seems that the Surefire switches require some nubs to be shaved off to properly work with LDI lasers.
What I’ve done in the past with the SR-D-IT switches is to grind off the rail grabbers and back it with velcro. Gets the switch lower and gives it support.
I’ve done it a few times - first time I used a dremel from the get go and second time I cut the grabbers off and brought down the rough edge with a dremel. Both turned out great.
Lol! No worries. I was worried my post was too long to keep people’s attention.
Always love seeing what new products y’all come up with. You’ll notice your x300 light mount/shroud in the pics.
Nice setup. I also have the CQBL and I paired it with the M300V light for my NV setup. I have one of the TNVC light mounts to directly attach the light to the side of the laser but found it was a little to much off the side and not as tight as I liked the light to be to the rail. I use the Gear Sector Scout mount on mine and had to shave a little bit off the GS mount to sit alongside the CQBL. Rail is URX 3.1 if it matters… My surefire switch barley comes out of the socket on the laser under fire. No problems until you pull the trigger. Currently I have a rubber band holding it on. I have maybe 1k rounds like that, and my rubber band mod is holding strong. I think I will cut and solder the factory plug in place of the surefire plug and still use the surefire dual switch eventually. Few pics of mine are on this thread here… https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?165781-My-go-to-LMT-BCM-KAC-11-5-SBR-build
I’m interested to see how you fasten your switch to the rail without the pic section.
Out of curiosity, why mess with the tape switches when you have the option of the push buttons on laser and light? You won’t be running them at the same time, so as long as you can reach both controls, why the tape switch?
Also, are you planning on running a separate IR light somewhere?
Last question, how visible (distance) is that red laser on the CQBL? I’m also interested in running just a Vis/IR laser instead of a BUIS as a backup sight, but was leaning toward a green laser if red wasn’t viable. Thanks.
I won’t Jack the thread or answer for the OPs specific needs, but I can comment on the CQBL and the visibility of the red laser. In daylight you will have a hard time seeing the laser without magnification at distances even less then 50 yards. Cloudy overcast 50 is ok. At night, I was able to easily see the IR laser with my PVS-7s at 800 yards. No problem. Same with the visible red laser without my NVGs. Could have been farther but that was a known distance I had ranged during the day to a hunting blind. For me all my rigs are set up with 12 tape switches and the light mounted at 130. I prefer to standardize the light / laser controls with all my rigs. Not all have lasers, but they all run some form of 12 Mounted surefire tape switch. I also don’t care for the break of grip to get on top of the cqbl to hit the fire button. I can run the laser constant on with momentary IR light and that works well for me. Not sure what OPs needs are.
Thanks for the response JW, that’s exactly what I was looking for. I’m not sure how I’ll be able to keep the irons without moving the laser back to the rear of the rail, but I’m not sure I would feel comfortable with that limited of visibility for a BUIS system…even with how bombproof Aimpoints are.
I looked over your build thread (very nice btw) and your needs and role for that build are pretty similar to mine. I would just rather avoid a tape switch if possible. Any reservations not having irons? Any reservations with a tape switch failing? (We can take this to your thread if we need to).
I tried putting the laser back right in front of the aimpoint. With the laser such low profile, even with KAC micro, magpul pro, front sights etc, you get interference and bloom off of the front sight. It does not work. My tape switch did fail, but the rubber band now holds the plug in. I need to cut, replace, solder the factory plug in the surefires laser plugs place. It sucked as after 2 rounds it came right out a 1/16 of an inch and would not activate the switch. So I would say keep that in mind with the surefire switch from the start. You can always manually fire the laser even with the plug in. So that’s always a backup.
I did put the laser on the 3 rail, keeping the light in the same spot mounted from a offset mount on the 12 rail with an iron sight. I do not like the horizontal point of aim and impact with the adjustments a little different also. The 12 rail is where it’s at in my opinion. Also, pending your rail length, having a BUIS even with a very small site radius is better then nothing. You could always put your front iron sight in front of the aimpoint as far as possible.
Okay… Rifle is built and test fired. While fiddling with the accessories I noticed the location I prefer to have the tape switch is directly over the gas block. Has this been an issue for anyone else? The rail has no heat shielding and in fact is very open on top. I’m thinking I may need to move it to 9 or 10 o’clock. Thoughts?
