I was considering taking the following carbine course (http://www.tigervalley.com/tvciv_carbine1.php)with my “home defense carbine” which is an AR-15 I assembled on an LRB lower and a factory assembled 14.5" Noveske upper w/ NSR rail.
The course description says targets will be presented from contact to 300 yards including moving targets. My question is: am I setting myself up for failure for shooting this class with an Aimpoint H1? Mine has the 2 MOA dot if it matters.
My dillema is that I could by 1-4x scope for $500 or so but I still would probably want to keep the aimpoint on my carbine when it sits around the house, both due to weight and usability at close range. So in a sense, I want to train with what I might need to use.
Does anyone have thoughts or suggestions on the matter? I’ve done a search and read a few threads on using the aimpoint at long distances and it certainly sounds doable, if not ideal. The magnifier option seems like a waste of money when a good low power variable scope can be had for the same price or even cheaper.
An H1 for home defense would be more ideal than probably any variable scope. As others stated, 300m is definitely doable and even more so since you’ve got the 2moa.
I took a course a few weeks ago with an Aimpoint PRO which is also 2MOA. We shot a lot of rounds prone at 300 yds and the PRO was great. After the class, I also shot from a barricade to 400 yds.
Since I never shoot at this distance, I also shot them with BUIS and gained a lot of confidence. I need to do this more often!
The H1 will do just fine.
Eric
I have well over 5k (on the low end) rounds with my H1, 300 yards? No problem. 400 yards? Also no problem, especially if you are shooting with good ammo and your grip is correct/sturdy.
I’ll echo the above sentiments. I’ve got a similar setup, just with the 4MOA T-1. I’ve shot it a few times at 300 for a multi-gun match (10" plates at 300 for one) and it was point and click every time.
Not to say it’s not the arrow, it’s the indian, but another shooter in the squad had trouble with the 10" plates at 300 with a 18" HBAR and a 2.5-10x Nightforce.
You should be fine and it will be a good chance to learn the limitations on an RDS for you. I switched to a 1-4 on my general purpose carbine about two years ago and wont ever be going back. I run RDS’s on HD rifles and carbines that I shoot inside 100-200 yards. Part of that is simply because my eyesight is slowly failing me and a little magnification helps. I am also much faster from 100-300 with the
1-4.
I would recommend a solid 100yd zero, that you have confirmed to be perfect before arriving to your class. Take the time before hand to learn your dope out to 300 which will make things a lot easier for you.
I would also recommend quality ammo which will help with consistency. Lil Bowski is the only guy I’ve run into that can shoot cheap surplus more accurately than most shoot factory loads. Probably the indian though as he works his ass off.
Have to respectfully disagree with a 100 yard zero. A 50 yard zero will be a bit more versatile. It will put you in better shape up close, and be “flatter” at longer ranges.
I have personally shot the FBI HRT qual. It goes out to 200 yards. I’m running a DD 10.3" with a T1 2 MOA. I had zero issues out to 200 with that set up. Our department runs the 50 yard zero. It has proven very accurate and versatile zero.
In any case? Wouldn’t it be better to pick a reasonable zero and learn the holds and stick with it? I wouldn’t want to try and remember a bunch of different holds for different zeros and then try and remember which one I should be using at any given time.
As for zero distances… the only reason the 50/200 zero puts you closer to the line of sight at the far end of the useful range is because you’re so much over the LOS at closer ranges (between 50 and 200.) A 100 yard zero is very easy to work with as it’s very flat from the muzzle out to 150-175 and when you do have to hold (closer or further) it’s always holding high.
When you take a class, are you paying to have instructors teach you what they know, or are you paying to go teach them? A good curriculum is integrated. Calibrating the equipment correctly is important, whether the subject is photography, aircraft maintenance, surveying or shooting.
In MY opinion how a shooter sights in a firearm is a very personal thing. I sighted my carbine so the point of impact falls right on top of the red dot at 100 yards. I can consistently make hits on clay pigeon targets out to 200 yards. Out to 300 yards, the point of impact still falls inside what the red dot covers and it. My Aimpoint H1 has the 4 minute dot so it’s covering 12 inches at 300. At real close ranges, it lets me put the bullet right where I want it. It works for me. It may not work for anyone else. The only way to find out what works for you is to try it and shoot it.
For those using a 50 yard zero, which means the rising bullet intersects your point of aim at 50 yards, you won’t know where the bullet will drop to again intersect your point of aim until you go shoot the rifle and find out. Your windage will also be more accurately set when zero is verified at longer ranges. I learned a lot shooting my rifles at 300 yards
…which is not license for every Use THIS Zero Because It’s Different Than That Guy’s Zero bubba to boil out of the woodwork and start throwing brickbats. The question was NOT about zeros, and I don’t understand the sudden small upsurge in folks disregarding the topic at hand for the sake trying to MAKE an aiming device thread into a zero thread.
OP, your gun is capable of making 300+.
Your optic is capable of making 300+.
The purpose of taking a class is to make YOU capable of using said capable gun/capable optic to get hits.
Take the class. Use the zero the instructors teach. Shoot the gun. See how you do, take notes. THEN make equipment / training / method decisions…
In that order. Get out of your head, enjoy your class, then climb back in once you’ve got something to bring and use to make worthwhile decisions instead of theory-based ones based upon recommendations of forum posters that can’t stay on topi…
The course description says targets will be presented from contact to 300 yards including moving targets. My question is: am I setting myself up for failure for shooting this class with an Aimpoint H1? Mine has the 2 MOA dot if it matters.
It’s a class. The purpose of which is to teach you. There is no failing except a failure to follow safety rules. There is no sense “gaming” the class by purchasing a 1-4 if you don’t plan on using it for your HD gun.
I took my first carbine class with a 1-4 scope. I took my second (same instructor) with a 2moa Aimpoint Pro. The first class taught me what I need for MY use and the Pro is better for MY use than a 1-4.
