Hey guys, just doing some research while Paypal holds the funds I got from eBay sales. I have my Daniel Defense Omega rail on the way but can’t get anything else until Paypal releases my money next week. As I said, I’m doing a lightweight build. I’m wanting to stay around 4-6 ounces and $150 for the light and mount together, the lower the better for both.
Right now I’m looking at the Fenix PD30R5 and the Daniel Defense mount and insert. The PD30 is under 2 ounces, 257 lumens, and $65. The DD mount with insert is going to be about 1.5 ounces and $60 or so. I assume the .84" PD30 should fit fine in the .835" DD insert.
Any opinions or suggestions on bettering this setup, or a better setup I may not have looked at yet?
Or mount the TLR or SFX300 at the front of your rail at 12:00 and don’t use a pad at all. I have an X300 on my lightweight build and like it so much I am considering changing over the rest of my rifles…
After doing some more reading, I’ve come up with these two options.
Use the Fenix tailcap pressure switch system and Magpul Illumination Kit (who else makes this kind of thing?) with my TK12R5 and a Daniel Defense mount. Total cost here would be $20 tailcap pressure switch, $20 MOE kit, and $50 DD mount…plus the cost of a new handheld flashlight = $150-170.
Just run the TLR1 at 12 o’clock and activate with my thumb. Roughly $100, but may force me to grip the rail further back than I’d like. Also, will the FSB create a noticeable shadow?
The SF X300 sits on my HD rifle. You really can’t beat it for a quality weapon light that is light weight and low profile, but even with a discount you’re probably looking at just north of $200. I also have an E2D LED (picked up for $110 on sale) in a Gear Sector mount that works very well and would be close to your targeted weight and budget.
The TLR-1 also works well and costs around $100-$110. I prefer the switching, mounting system and sleekness of the X300 though.
A TLR-3 is (in my experience) the brightest light you will find for the size (weight) and purpose (75-100 yd rifle light). I would recommend a black out cover or lens cap if you plan on using this for any ‘real’ use, as white light AD’s happen easily with any sort of X300/TLR setup.
Con: Uses CR-2 batteries vs. CR123.
A bombproof small light that uses CR123 close to your budget would be a VTAC mini-L4 with a mount of your choice (I use a gear sector mount). Plus, the clickie tail cap tends to be more reliable and less prone to AD’s.
I think I am going to go with the clicky tailcap setup. Seems to fit my needs better. I’ll have a look at the VTAC light and also may get their mount- if I can find somewhere that has it’s weight listed.
ETA
Can you not get the mini-L4 alone? I’d rather not go with a plastic mount…are there some other recoil-friendly lights in the same weight range as the Mini-L4?
Found it by itself…I’m limited to iPhone and no computer until tomorrow night so I missed it earlier. I may get this light and the Gear Sector mount, though I could probably get more than 110 lumens for that $140.
Generally, it is accepted that when measured out the front, most Surefire’s are underrated (search on Candle Powered Forums). Not that it’s a big deal (my opinion is that 100 lumens is generally fine for most rifle work, indoor/outdoor). Get what suits your needs.
My rail system is the DD Omega 9.0 on a midlength gas system, so no room ahead of the front sight. I want something with longer throw than my Insight WX150 that’s on my handgun…would the VTac/Surefire mini-L4 accomplish that? I know it’s 110 lumens vs. 150 lumens but I also understand that’s not all that matters, or so I’m told. If it likely would, that’s what I’ll go with. Light weight, Surefire quality, and just at the top of my price range.
Streamlight TLR-1: Best bang-for-the-buck and value, especially if you need to outfit multiple weapons. Heard of issues with the switch but customer service is good.
SureFire x300: Highest overall quality, no known problems, and brighter than the TLR-1 by a tiny bit. Backed by SureFire’s legendary warranty/customer service. Very spendy, but the best. Also lower profile if you ever plan to do the 12 o’clock thing in front of the front sight like some people do.
TLR-3: I’ve heard too many negative stories regarding the plastic body, I would not buy this one. The fact that it doesn’t use the CR123s like everything else is a show-stopper for me. Cute little light though.
I currently only own a TLR-1, because I got a smokin deal on it (only paid $60). Plan to buy an x300 once I get a handgun with a rail, none of my current handguns have one and since my TLR-1 is the older non-C4 version that puts out only 80 lumens it’s going on my HD shotgun because the lower output makes it perfect for indoors.
For the price, durability and switching mechanism, I personally run a mini L4 in a gear sector mount. It will have the throw you need in a solid package.
NovTac 120T in VTAC mount works for me. I have an X300 with pressure switch but prefer this set up. Mount on top puts switch at 11:00 which I prefer. Not sure what it weighs but it is pretty light.
Are the NovaTac lights sturdy enough for recoil? I ask because I contacted Fenix and they said their PD20R5 wasn’t designed to handle the recoil of being a firearm-mounted light, and it looks very similar to yours.
I cannot say enough good things about the EagleTac light I got from Paul at www.LoessHillsTactical.com. Google it. You’ll be glad you did. My only issue is that while I ordered it to to run in a Gear Sector mount, I found myself using it too much to leave it there! So, for now, my HD setup has an old Pelican (M6?)…
I believe it is sturdier than my X300. Can’t say for sure but my guess is that a one cell LED light won’t suffer any adverse affects from being mounted on a carbine. I got it for $80 from Botach (much maligned but they did fine by me).
