Is a switch block a must on a suppressed SBR? Can anyone provide me a link to some info on switch blocks and their use?
Thanks
http://www.noveskerifleworks.com/switchblock/
Best info that I can find.
I wouldn’t say it’s a must, but it’s really nice. Most suppressed SBR shooters use heavier buffers and springs to control bolt velocity and pressures before unlocking. But since the switchblock does it at the front end, it has the added benefit of preventing excess gas from entering the receiver in the first place. It makes for a much cleaner gun and less pressure on the parts.
To me the real benefits of a switchblock come when using it on a FA gun. I just wish they would offer the pin on version as a separate piece. I’d love to have one on my 6933 upper.
They do make a clamp-on version that you can install.
Yes, but the pinned version is much better.
I have two. A 12.5"Crusader on an M16 with SB. I also have a 10.5 on an M16 W/O switchblock. I have found that if I run a H2 or H3 buffer in either one I don’t use the switch block at all. I also have a Gemtech HALO that I run on both of these and the guns run fine W/O the SB on Suppressed mode.
Do I like the switchblock? Yes Is it a must? No. It is nice to turn the SB to 0 (No gas) this allows the rifle to be very quiet and must be manually operated.
If your going to run the SBR mostly with the can on, then just put a heavier buffer in. If you have the extra coin, get the SB
Hope this helps.
Until that day,
Darkop
FWIW, you can pin the screw version once installed and function checked. Just thought I’d mention that.
While I wouldn’t say the SB is necessarily required, I would prefer to have it on a gun that I wanted to run both suppressed and non-suppressed.
Came into some extra coin, and decided to buy an SBR instead of build my middy rifle. Just a personal choice. I’m debating between a 6933 or just spending another $600-$700 up front on the Noveske 10.5 CQB with the SB and M42K mount instead of the KX3.
The Colt seems would end up costing more in the long run when all is said and done.
Thanks everyone for your responses thus far. Any more info is also greatly appreciated.
Would someone be able to run an SBR with or without a can if you have the right buffer and a gasbuster (no switchblock)? From everything I’ve researched, it appears confusing. I guess you also have to factor in ammo selection, gas port size…
If I built one, I would like to have the option to run the piss out of it with or without the can, and I wouldn’t want to be limited to rail selection because of a swithblock. Is this possible?
If you understand the dynamics and issues in dealing with SBR’s then yes you can have one that runs suppressed and un-suppressed w/o a Switchblock.
Due to the design of the Switchblock you are going to be limited to what rails you can use. I simply sent my 11.5 barrel to Gotm4 and had him chop and shave my FSB. My gun runs fine with and without the can. I use an H2 buffer, full-auto carrier and good buffer spring.
Thanks, IG. When running it without a can, you want the minimal amount of pressure to cycle the weapon, right?
back to researching
If your rifle cycles fine without a suppressor on, then you’re not likely to have a problem with it functioning with a suppressor. A suppressor will generate more back pressure and therefor make the rifle cycle harder and faster. The side-affects of harder and faster cycling are increase recoil, gas blow-back, and wear on parts.
There are a number of ways to minimize these sides affects such as the Switchblock, running smaller gas ports, heavier buffers, specialty carriers.
Too much gas is not good, and too little gas is also not good…so right in the middle is probably the safest bet. This “middle-ground” is where most factory rifles reside. By messing around with stuff, you can get the rifle to function with much less gas than normal which will be beneficial in re-leaving the problems with excess gas…but you will be walking a fine line with regard to reliable function.
But the Noveske built SBR’s with the SB’s are goo to go correct, as they build/tune it if you will to run properly?
The Noveske built SB upers are going to run as smooth as a baby’s bottom in both supressed and unsuppressed modes. The SB and correct port sizing for the barrel length will ensure proper gas proportioning for correct function, minimal wear and tear and clean running.
Exactly. When shot on the suppressed setting with a can on the gun, the switchblock will pretty much make the gun cycle as if there is no can on it. Mine ran much less dirty and recoiled much more smooth and soft compared to shooting it on the normal setting with a can on it.
Ok guys thanks for the feedback.
Rather than start a new thread, I wanted to ask a follow up question:
I understand a switchblock is beneficial for SBRs and full auto, but is it as beneficial on a 16" semi-auto only? Would a 16" without the SB run fine in both suppressed/non-suppressed with a gas-buster and H2buffer?
Paladin Machine makes different adjustable gas blocks that well fit under most HG’s. Another possibility is to use a MGI adjustable gas tube. The adjustable tubes tend to have gas leaks at the adjustment fitting and the adjustment set screw can move.
When shooting suppressed I would like to be able to control the amount of gas reaching the BCG.
The cyclic rate goes up more for shorter barrels so I would say the Switchblock is slightly more “needed” on short barrels. It’s immediately noticeable on a 16" rifle, smoother and lighter recoil, less gas.
You can run a silencer without a Switchblock on most any quality AR, “fine” depends on how you feel about extra recoil and a cyclic rate that’s probably higher than optimal so at least somewhat more likely to cause a stoppage.