Mounted my Surefire E2DL in a LaRue inline mount to my handguard. Works great except that after the first round is fired the recoil causes the light to “downgrade” to the low-intensity brightness setting and I have to manually re-cycle the endcap push button to regain optimum lighting.
I know this is probably due to the inertia switch on the E2DL, but has anyone else had this problem? If so, how did you fix it? Does surefire make a replacement single-mode endcap switch instead of the inertia switch? I only want the 200 lumen output mode, the 5 lumen is nice, but has limited utility on a HD rifle.
I had the same experience with my E2DL. I believe that the 2 stage programming of the light is actually in the head unit rather than the tail cap. You have several options:
Find an early production E2D that was released in single mode only
Install the Surefire KX2C head
Use the E2DL for carry and get the Scout light
I ended up finding the E2D single output on eBay and also purchasing the KX2C head. Once you get the single output light installed, it is a great weapon setup!
Yup, the light is only working As-Designed. That is, cycling the power changes the modes. It is not an “inertia switch” just circuitry in the head that changes the output mode when it senses power ON-OFF-ON within a certain amount of time. The recoil is probably making the battery jump inside the tube and lose contact momentarily, therefore switching modes.
Get a light designed to be weapon mounted, this includes the SF models as well as various other lights with non-recoil affected mode switching and a properly designed spring/contact system. Many have been reviewed on this board previously. I “think” the Olight T20 will fit into your E2DL mount.
I would think the two stage output to be advantageous in HD situations. 200 lumens is a lot of light to bounce off of white walls, picture glass, mirrors, and other reflective surfaces during a search. It may affect vision and reticle washout.
I used to carry a Surefire L2 on duty for just this type of situation. It has a 15 lumen low and 100 lumen high. This allowed for long battery life when doing general searches of cars, buildings, etc while also allowing for immediate access to the additional output of the high output if contact with a suspect (or any other need for more output) occurred.
I could see where for me the 5 lumen output on your E series may be too little while the 200 lumen output may be to much.
Does your issue occurr when the tail-cap is “clicked” into constant-on or just when pressed to momentary-on?
Problem occurs when light is in the “clicked on” position. It may happen using the momentary switch as well.
I originally mounted the E2DL due to the dual-role capability, however given the choice I’d rather have the 200 lumens instead of the 5.
The more I think about it, the more I like the explanation of the batteries or the spring bouncing inside the housing during recoil. If the batteries lose contact with the spring for a milisecond the light classifies it as a “on-off-on” cycle and switches to the 5 lumen output mode. My only contention is that firing a second round does not switch it back to 200 lumen mode…
That is the generally accepted, and only logical, reasoning for why this happens with multi-mode lights that change due to ON-OFF-ON cycles. All the switching happens in the circuitry in the head and the switch is basically the same switch as on all lights and is mostly unaffected by recoil. As to why it doesn’t switch back after a second shot it could be outside the time limit for cycling, the battery/springs taking a set position once it moves and not moving so much a second time, etc, etc… Basically, any lights with this feature are not fit for weapon mounted duty due to their haphazard behavior under recoil.
While that is very true, the sucky thing is that Larue sells this as a weaponlight and mount combo. Not sure if the OP bought the combo from them, or bought the light previously. But I bought this setup a year ago and had the same, “WTF!” experience when the light went into 5 lumen mode after the weapon cycled.
A year ago, it was one of the cheapest “weaponlight” and mount combos that LT offered, and I was completely new to the world of weapon lighting options, which is why I bought it then. I sold the mount and now use the E2D as a handheld light for everyday carry, which it works great for since it was designed in every way for that role, including the self defense “Spikes of Death” it has around the bezel and tailcap.
I’m not sure if they currently still sell this dual-mode version of the E2D or if they have one that’s just the one max lumen output and nothing else.
I now run the surefire X300 on my carbines, which is an out-friggin-standing weaponlight for pretty much all civilians’ HD carbines and IMHO most LEOs’ patrol rifles. However I just recently purchased the new(ish) Surefire Mini-Scout weaponlight and I’m really diggin’ it! It’s practically the same weight as the X300, has the same 110 lumen output IIRC, and comes with both the standard tail cap switch and their updated pressure pad, although I use their rail-mounted pad myself.
I had the same issue with my brand new E2D. I mounted it on my Noveske with my fancy LaRue mount, went to the range, tested my light, and got nothing but low mode after the first round. I called LaRue and Surefire. LaRue was nice and said yes it happens but it has been fixed by customers in the past and Surefire chose to ignore them when they told them about the fix. Surefire, who’s products I love, told me to buy the $425.00 Scout Light. Well, I like to fix problems, so that’s what I did.
The only thing you will need to is a 13.8mmx2.5mm Viton O-Ring. It doesn’t have to be this exact size or material but this is what worked for me. I got these at Checker Auto Parts for a few bucks but I use these for my suppressors so I had these already.
If you remove the tail cap of your E2D you will notice the batteries move freely back and forth. The spring that makes the contact flexes during recoil causing the loss of connection with the head of the flashlight. Just shim it!
Take it apart.
Place an O-Ring in the tube from the front end.
Use the batteries to push it down into place.
Check the positioning of the o-ring in the rear with the head screwed back into place. The batteries should no longer rattle free.
Replace the tail cap, make sure it works, mount it, fire it, enjoy your properly working weapon light.
