I’ve got a 16" BCM mid-length with Magpul MOE handguards, and I need to mount a light to finish the project. I’ve also got a SureFire E2D LED Defender pretty much sitting around and am considering using it in an IWC mount. I’ve been researching what I need to do to eliminate the low output on this light so that only the high output works.
I’ve used the SEARCH button and looked at SureFire’s web site, but I’ve not found what I consider a definitive answer to the best way to eliminate the low output option in the E2D and go straight to high output only with a click. It looks like a Z68 tailcap should take care of it, but I’d appreciate confirmation that I’ve read and understand the material correctly before ordering the tailcap and mount.
I’m impressed with the new Fury, but I’m not sure that 500 lumens is necessary for the home. My thinking is to use the E2D with single click to high output for the BCM and HD, and then purchase a dual output Fury in the future to take advantage of both the high and low output functions as a replacement for the E2D.
Is the Z68 tailcap what I’m looking for, or is there another options from SureFire to convert the E2D?
I tried to do the same thing, both on an AR and shotgun and it was not a worthwhile endeavor. The Z68 tailcap did NOT eliminate the low output option and the recoil of the weapon provided enough impulse to bounce the batteries off the spring and acted as a “second click”, putting the light in low-output mode. Addition of an o-ring to the barrel of the light eliminated that problem, but the low-output option remained.
There are a growing number of tactical trainers who are espousing more light as better, no matter the circumstance. The 500 lumen Fury, although I do not have first-hand experience, has been mentioned by these trainers as a viable option for a weaponlight, even in interior operations.
I think you should go with the Fury and skip the intermediate frustrations from trying to adapt the E2D into a role it is not well-suited for.
IIRC the circuitry for the E2D is in the head, not the tail cap. Replacing the tailcap alone won’t fix the problem complained of above.
I use a spare, regular E2 (with no option for high/low light) as a weapon light and suits my need just fine…after I shelled out for a replacement LED head in place of the incandescent and a tapeswitch tailcap. I’d probably have been better off getting a scout and sticking the spare E2 in my glovebox. You may want to consider that.
The bright/low combo renders it worthless. Had one on my wife’s rifle, and simply hated it. It worked, but that light is so much better as an EDC/Utility flashlight.
Get the VTAC L4 instead (or ideally, the 3V version). It’s the poor man’s scout light, but is functionally identical in GearSector or 03DG mounts, as long as you don’t feel the need for a pressure switch (and even at that, the SR07 is so much better you’d be out the cash for that anyway).
Many thanks for the info. I originally looked at the Scout and VTAC L4 but then thought about converting the E2D to a more dedicated role and saving a few bucks for ammo. For EDC, I greatly prefer the E1B that I carry now and took the place of the E2D in that particular role.
I’ll take a second look at the Scout, VTAC L4, and Fury. Thanks again.
The mode-switching of the E2D is in the electronics in the head. For all practical intents and purposes, the only way to convert it to single-mode is to switch out the head - which is far and away the most expensive part. You’re better off getting a different light, unless you really feel like experimenting!
Here’s an example: https://illuminationsupply.com/vme-head-219-dropin-p-172.html?zenid=af631e69a260aa63142b07d6f8e8cdd2 this head and module combination would give you a natural-light 4500K CCT beam which avoids both the garish green/blue white of normal LEDs, and the warm yellow of incandescent lights. It would, however, make for a poor weapon light because it is a floody light without a decent focused beam.
And so forth. Any E-series compatible head would work.
