Anyone running the Surefire 212 suppressor on an SBR?
I’m looking for information on how well the muzzle break for that can works, in terms or recoil and muzzle control?
thanks
R.
Anyone running the Surefire 212 suppressor on an SBR?
I’m looking for information on how well the muzzle break for that can works, in terms or recoil and muzzle control?
thanks
R.
That brake on an SBR in my opinion will be brutal. If you plan on leaving the can on 100% of the time, then it will serve you well in acting as a sacrificial blast baffle for your can. If you plan on taking the can off, go with a flash hider. Obviously different folks have different tolerances on this, but I can’t stand brakes on an SBR.
Having said that, I do believe the SF brake provides the most “secure” mounting of all their suppressor mounts. Just remember, if you shoot unsuppressed at ANY training event with a brake, you will not be the most popular guy on the line. As far as recoil reduction & all that, it’ll work fine on an SBR
I’d rather have a flash hider.
What barrel length are you using?
I have all three of the muzzle devices (FH556-212A, FH556-215A, MB556K) that SF offers for the FA556-212 suppressor on at least one of five of my guns, three of which are SBR’s. When shooting suppressed there is obviously no difference, however unsuppressed I prefer the MB556K for recoil mitigation but as others have indicated it can be brutal to those standing next to you. Although a good pair of electronic earpro such as MSA’s or Peltor’s usually minimizes the discomfort.
Cheers
The Surefire brakes work but do you need one for a 5.56 gun?
At points I had both the MB556K and the FH556-212A on a 10.5" Noveske SBR with K can. I ultimately ended up with the flash hider as the final configuration.
First I installed the MB. A few firings without the can and it got tossed. I ran the rifle unsuppressed during the morning portion of a class, about a year ago, and managed to make no friends by doing so. After lunch I put the “make my gun quieter device” on and was promptly bombarded by empty soda bottles and balled up gloves for not suppressing the entire time. A SBR with a brake fuckin rattles teeth. Good points of this mount would be that it does mitigate the minimal recoil of the 5.56 very well and, as hootiewho also mentioned, the MB does seem to lock down tighter with the can.
Since then I switched to the flash hider. I notice no difference with the suppressor installed, which it usually is, and I am much happier when I fire without the can up front. I am still able to control the recoil perfectly fine without the brake. Even in an athome, night time scenario sans the can, the FH should be easier on my ears with less muzzle flash.
I personally can not see a reason to use the brake. I suppose it does make more sense to blow the shit out of a $130 brake as opposed to sandblasting the innards of your $1000+$200 suppressor but I would only go back to the brake if the rifle was going to suppressed 100% of the time.
In regards to the OP’s question. I feel that my 10/22 has more recoil than my SBR with the brake. It does work but with some sacrifices elsewhere.
Go FH, unless going dedicated suppressed. Then go MB. This is why I run a brake. I do not shoot unsuppressed, and my gun is set up specifically for suppressed use.
However, it will function with the can off.
Also take a look at the MB556SB, its a break specificly designed for a SBR. Little different form than the MB556K and it vents a little less gas up so it doesn’t cause your shorter barrel to dance all over like the MB556K can. Of course this is all moot if you run a can all the time. It’s not listed on the website, you’ll have to call.
Good God, it is! :eek:
I am running the MB556K and the K can. SBR’s are brutal on cans and will eat that first baffle up in no time. The MB saves it.
So if you shoot a lot of suppressed fire, go with the MB.
With that said, it is a loud Mother without the can.
As another poster stated, the SF cans lock up the BEST with the MB’s. This means that you will have the least amount of POI shift.
C4
Hey guys,
Thanks for the info guys. I think we all know how annoying a MB can be when stuck next to “THAT” shooter. This is the position I’m in. I’m running a 10.5" system. At this point it’s not suppressed. The reason I’m on the fence about setting up suppressed is because I’m left handed and I’m concerned with blowback. So I was thinking of setting up the SBR with a surefire MB so if I wasn’t happy with the blowback I could still benefit from the break.
At this point I got the Battle Comp break until I make a decision on this.
Just to add to this. I do have a 30 cal. suppressor for my precision system and I was able to shoot it on my SBR and blowback wasn’t too bad, but I’m not sure if that was because it was a 30 cal suppressor on a 5.56 system.
For those running the 212 can, if you can chime in on blowback from the left side I would appreciate it.
R.
If you’re concerned with the blow-back associated with running a supressed AR as a southpaw, then you may want to consider buying a Noveske switchblock upper. I shoot left-handed and can honestly say that my 10.5" Noveske lo-pro switchblock eliminates 95% of blow-back when running suppressed. I was actually dissappointed at how much blowback my 12" MRP piston exhibited while running on the “suppressed” setting with SF212 can in comparison to Noveske SB.
Pic of my Noveske Switchblock SBR…

Cheers
Not to completely Necro, but I asked Garin Lee about this in relation to the 4MOA shift I was getting to the same POI on two separate rifles I have (Noveske) with -212a’s, and the FH locks up just as well as the MB, as the same and same number of bearing surfaces, etc. Absolutely zero difference in lock-up per Garin Lee. If you have other data that suggests otherwise, can you share it? I am not trying to “call you out” or argue, I would just like to know where this sentiment comes from/why Mr. Lee states it is not correct/get to the bottom of it all.
Yes, I understand in “theory” they should all lock up the same. My experience is with putting my cans on lots of different adaptors and finding that they do NOT all lock up the same (which in turn directly impacts POI shifts).
This of course DOESN’T MEAN that you cannot get a FH to lock up the same as the MB (shit happens as they say). I just haven’t had that much luck with the 10-12 I have looked at.
C4
How are you quantifying this?
Two ways. Feel. The collar does not give the same quantity of clicks and also gives me the indication that it is not in the dead center of the teeth.
Second way is by testing the POI shift. Zero the gun with the can on and then remove the can and look at where the rounds impact.
C4
The clicks on the collar are meaningless and serve only as auditory feedback. It would lock up fine if it were smooth. (regarding the Gen III mounts, the teeth on the mount itself/can that interacts with the Gen II, they are obviously meaningful).
Most people with the 212a report a downward shift in POI.
The MB affects POI, and shifts it down. The weight of the suppressor seems to match this, so you see much less shift. With the 212a, not so much, so there is more shift.
I could only see merit to this if REPEATABILITY were suffering.
I’m also very curious if Garin Lee will chime in, here, for the record.
In theory yes, but in actuality, no. When you get 15 clicks on the MB and then TWO on the FH AND they feel rough (as in they are barely hanging on), that is what is commonly referred to as a clue.
Most people with the 212a report a downward shift in POI.
I see between zero and a half inch shift with MB adaptors. I have seen 3 inch shifts with FH adaptors. I am also not alone on this.
Edited to add, I have not tested any of the new RC adaptors and only referring to the older adaptors.
C4
I have no experience with the Gen II adapters. Yes, those teeth matter, the “teeth” on the RC adapters don’t.
I do have a 4MOA shift on both of my 212a equipped guns, though. Both to 6 o’clock.
If I had an MB, I bet that the MB would cause a 3-4MOA shift, and then I would not notice ANY shift with the can on as the MB wouldn’t be acting as an MB, if that makes sense.
If you have an MB and attach a can and notice NO POI shift, it’s because your can is shifting the same or similar amount as your MB, because an MB will cause lower impacts.
That is WAAAAY to much shift and I would never tolerate that. Then again, I am used to almost no shift on my guns so…
If I had an MB, I bet that the MB would cause a 3-4MOA shift, and then I would not notice ANY shift with the can on as the MB wouldn’t be acting as an MB, if that makes sense.
It could be, but from my experience, your POI shift would at least be cut in half.
If you have an MB and attach a can and notice NO POI shift, it’s because your can is shifting the same or similar amount as your MB, because an MB will cause lower impacts.
I have 3 MB’s on three different gun. The result is always the same. Little to no POI shift.
C4
Surefire looked at the can, I get it back soon and will see. Maybe it just is what it is. Noveske guns, Surefire cans, dunno what I could do different/better.