I just looked at the reviews there … it’s unclear to me if these reflector/LED modules just “drop in” with a G2 or not? Do you have to modify them to get them to work, or is it just a matter of removing what you have and just putting the new reflector/LED in its place?
Nothin that I am aware of.
C4
Please understand that I subscribe to “Murphy’s Law”. That being said…
The G3 is a “good” light IMHO. I have several G2’s. None of them are on a weapon. The G3 is a little brighter with a longer run time because it is a 3 cell versus a 2 cell light. Period. It is still not what I would consider to be in the “Weapons Mounted Light” category.
The suggestion of the Z32 Shock Isolated bezel for “insurance”, is just as applicable to the G3 as it is to the G2.
Because of the advancements in LED technology, you may want to consider the G2L which is a little brighter than the G2, has much longer run times, and the LED is much less susceptible to shock than an incandescent bulb…and it will probably outlive you as far as longevity. Just my $.02 worth.
appreciate the input.
ive been looking at a few LED’s as well.
Harv,
FWIW…
Mixed inputs on the Cree drop in QC. I’d wait for the SF P6L (Led version that fits the G2 etc.) to come out.
The SF P60L’s are shipping this week. 
C4
when’s the P91L coming out?
Cyrus
I’ve installed a P60L (from a G2L) in a G3 and it works fine. No brighter, but I’m sure the battery life is longer than in the G2L.
Why would a shock isolated bezel be necessary on a G2L? I didn’t think that the led diodes are sensitive to shock.
Has anyone tried one of the Tacstar tape switch endcaps on a G2? I intend to mount a G2L on my N4 and would prefer a tape switch but I’m pretty leary of the Tacstar.
I contemplated the same… Is it going to produce more run time, or just put more voltage to the lamp and potentially reduce lifespan? I would imagine there’s a resisting-widget in there somewhere getting stressed?
Engi-nerd in the house? 
No need to shock isolate.
All tacstar products are junk.
C4
I’m looking to mount a light on my 13.2" railed carbine, and need something with a tape switch (I keep my VFG pretty far back, using a pad on the light isn’t an option with this gun). Since everyone seems to like the G2/G3 lights (and I need something affordable and light on weight-- my gun is off balance enough as it is) I’m thinking about using one of those. Problem is, who makes a good pressure switch for it? I’ve looked around and all Google turns up is airsoft junk.
ETA: I have just found a Commando Arms Accesories switch, it’s more expensive than the TacStar/Airsoft switches ($36), it should work with the G3, and P9 model lights as well, correct? Also, being CAA, is this even up to spec, or am I SOL for using a tape switch with any of Surefire’s handheld lights?
I’m thinking about buying a G3 (possibly a 9P) plus a mount for my 13.2" inch railed carbine, running it as far out as it takes for the front of the light to clear the rail, and maybe running a G2 for use with my non-light-railed handguns. Any advice?
I just stumbled across these tailcap/tape switch combos on the BQ website.
One offers strobing and the other offers varialbe levels of light output.
The copy says they are made in South Africa fwiw.
This page has the led light from the same company and standard tailcaps with the strobing or variable output abilities that will fit on the 6P.
I think “strobing” is highly over rated. If anyone thinks they are going to dis-orientate an attacker who has initiated the attack with a “strobe”, they should re-think their position.
I wonder if the variable output abilities will add complexity to the system, and the operators “Check List”. For an indoor situation, I think that a 6V incandescent is a simple and proven option. For outdoors, I would go with a 9V like the SF M96XXX family. I have used both.
If you want a “Hand Held” light that you convert to a “Weapon Light” then you can certainly go to the G2/ G3. If you want a “Real” 6V Weapon light talk to Grant about his Scout Light package. If you rally believe you need a 9V system, consider the M96X family from SF. As far as switches go…stay with the ones that the manufacturer of the light sells. They know their lights better than anyone. There is a LOT of crap out there!
I am assuming that these are for “Real World” situations, so price shouldn’t be a factor IMO, just like quality ammo and Mags.
I can’t imagine putting one of those variable output lights on a weapon. I think it would very impractical. I’m not so sure about the strobing. I was the recipient of some strobe lights when training in Surefire’s Lowlight Instructor school. It’s pretty damn disorienting.
I’ll have a G2L coming after Christmas and I’ll probably take my old 6P and upgrade it with a Cree lamp and a Surefire clikie tailcap and call it good. I’ve used Surefire for years (my 6P is going on 14 years old!) and trust them implicitly.