I’m due to get my SDN-6 within the coming weeks. This will be my first time running a suppressor on the AR platform, and I’m curious to know if it’s normal to have to change to a heavier buffer and/or spring to handle the extra pressure caused by the suppressor. I’ll be moving the can between carbine and mid length AR’s with 14.5" and 16" barrels, as well as my LMT 308.
Thanks,
Pete
So much depends upon how your rifles are cycling now. As a generalization I would think that you might be looking at better performance/reliability with a little bit more resistance to the bolt opening…
I have an 18" rifle gas that is minimally gassed which runs great with my SPR-M4, my SBR on the other hand carries all the spring and weight to help it smooth out.
Each rifle will tell you how it feels to be suppressed… congratulations and enjoy the peace and quiet a can brings to the range.
Well since you didn’t tell us which brands it’s hard to make an educated response. Generally when you add a suppressor you can expect some changes. For example- when I added a suppressor to my SBR (running an H2 and standard spring) I was getting failures to lock back and the weapon wasn’t smooth. After I went to the H3 buffer and blue Sprinco I had 100% lockback and it ran much smoother.
From my experience with the aac762 you won’t experience much back pressure in 5.56 due to the .30cal bore and volume of the can. As far as 7.62 it will give you some. Heavier buffer as Iraqgunz touched on is definitely a good option.
Adding a suppressor will pretty much always increase back-pressure. I say “pretty much” because weird s**t happens now and then just to make liars out of us.
Large volume suppressors tend to have a lesser degree of increase to bolt carrier velocity than smaller volume cans, assuming that both are effective at sound reduction.
Adding action spring resistance and adding buffer weight reduces the tendency to hyper-cycle with a suppressor.
Each rifle/suppressor combination is a special snowflake, and just because the model seems to work with a specific suppressor is not a guarantee that the same combination will work for you in your environment.
The biggest thing when it comes to suppression is use of good lubricant/cleaner, regardless of operating system.
Agreed. Froglube has been a lifesaver for me when running a dedicated silencer. It’s going to depend greatly on the gas ports on the barrels you have.
Each gun is unique when suppressed. I would wait to change anything. Mount and fire it with the can. See the ejection pattern/malfunctions then make adjustments if needed.
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5.56 rifles are Daniel Defense, LMT, Colt, and Noveske. 308 is an LMT as stated.
Thanks to everyone for the feedback; it’s exactly what i was hoping for and preps me well.
My 10.5 LMT with an H buffer runs WAY fast with the 762SDN-6 on it and ejects out around 2oclock. With H2 has it running just about right suppressed and will still run un-suppressed. I am hesitant to go to an H3 because I fear it wont function un-suppressed at all.
My LMT MWS runs PERFECT with the 762SDN-6 on it, but I am running a PRS stock which has the rifle buffer setup in it vs. the carbine buffer setup.
I have all 4 carbine style buffers in my parts kit though so I can test guns and find the right combo and then order a buffer for that gun.
Those barrels will probably cycle fine, but could you improve with an H2? It’s fun to play with buffers and check recoil impulse. If you don’t, you won’t know what you don’t know. I would buy an H2 and H3 and put in each gun. As you know, it also depends on the ammo.
All mine cycle, but run better with an H2 or H3. I also bought some Sprinco’s from Gunz he stuck in my guns. Don’t ask me which ones.
Thanks RJ and PB, appreciate the info.
On carbines I only use blue Sprincos and green with the rifle or A5.