Stuck Barrel Nut

[LongRider]

@bobsolla

the reason for the wet towels is to keep the barrel and upper receiver cool while heat is applied to the barrel nut.the reason i had for the delta ring being cut off is because you typically cant heat up the barrel nut without damage to the delta ring.the promag will work,but is of lower quality.

OK that makes sense thanks, I’ll go with Brownells as well, rather pay a few bucks more and have quality. If I can save a few bucks apples to apples I will but not at the expense of quality

@bobsolla

twithout using a upper receiver block on a vise and trying to remove the barrel nut is not advised because it can cause damage to your upper receiver.

That is what I figured, which is why I asked. If it was a matter of only marring the carry handle in the vise that would have been an acceptable to me. I’ll get the right tool for the job.

@bobsolla

you say your barrel is spinning.are you just trying to remove(undo)the barrel nut only by using an ar armorer `s wrench to the barrel nut?there is a raised metal nipple which fits in the upper receiver that is built into the barrel(i forget the technical name)that aligns the barrel into the upper receiver.this prevents the barrel spin when removing the barrel nut.the barrel should not spin at all!for the barrel to spin.the alignment nipple would have to be broken off. otherwise,if the barrel only is spinning,you would have to be trying to remove the barrel by just using a vise or clamping device on the barrel only causing it to spin off from the chambered part of the barrel put together by the barrel maker. obviously,that is not the correct way to remove the barrel.if this is the case,stop!

The barrel/reciever is spinning in the AR-15/M16 BARREL VISE JAWS. In other words the vise is not holding the barrel well enough to keep it from turning when I apply the amours wrench. That was what they used in the Bushmaster AR build DVD, to put the barrel nut on. I assumed incorrectly that is what you would use to remover the barrel nut. I have the vise tightened as much as reasonably possible, ( I broke one vise tightening it down) tried using both an old piece of rough scrap leather and than some tire inner tube to keep it from slipping as has been suggested. Still did not work. May try a gunsmith, though part of the reason for getting an AR was so I could familiarize myself with the weapon do a couple of mods than move on to build my own AR.

[LongRider]

It worked. I dunno what happened but it worked. Per your suggestions, I am waiting for the receiver vice block and barrel nut assembly I ordered from Brownells. I left the barrel in the vice. When I was out in the shop doing whatever I had given it a try, a couple of different times. Thursday evening I took another crack at the barrel nut and off it spun. I have no clue what happened it just came off like it had never been stuck. Checked the treads there was no sign of galling, loctite or anything else. So I am clueless what the hell happened but it is off.
I want to thank each and every one of you for your input and assistance. I especially want to say thanks for keeping this on topic without any negative carp about Bushmaster that is all to common on other boards. ON AR15 they’d have buried my OP in anti Bushmaster slams. For myself it looks like I have to retract my list of BushMaster complaints. Barring this weird bit of melodrama mine has served me well and gone bang each time I squeezed the trigger. Again thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with insightful well thought out posts.You are true gentlemen thank you for the help.

[bobsolla]

@LongRider

It worked. I dunno what happened but it worked. Per your suggestions, I am waiting for the receiver vice block and barrel nut assembly I ordered from Brownells. I left the barrel in the vice. When I was out in the shop doing whatever I had given it a try, a couple of different times. Thursday evening I took another crack at the barrel nut and off it spun. I have no clue what happened it just came off like it had never been stuck. Checked the treads there was no sign of galling, loctite or anything else. So I am clueless what the hell happened but it is off.
I want to thank each and every one of you for your input and assistance. I especially want to say thanks for keeping this on topic without any negative carp about Bushmaster that is all to common on other boards. ON AR15 they’d have buried my OP in anti Bushmaster slams. For myself it looks like I have to retract my list of BushMaster complaints. Barring this weird bit of melodrama mine has served me well and gone bang each time I squeezed the trigger. Again thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with insightful well thought out posts.You are true gentlemen thank you for the help.

cool!glad you you got it to come off without breakage!make sure when re- assembling the barrel to add a lubricant like whit lithium grease to the barrel receiver extension(where the barrel fits into the upper receiver)as to keep heat from seizing the barrel into the upper receiver in the future for future disassembly.also make sure to torque the barrel nut to the proper torque spec.(50-80in. lbs.) according to john noveske for my stainless steel 300 blackout barrel.i called noveske and john called me back with those numbers,but it may be different for yours,so i would call to make sure.good luck!

[DirectDrive]

@bobsolla

cool!glad you you got it to come off without breakage!make sure when re- assembling the barrel to add a lubricant like whit lithium grease to the barrel receiver extension(where the barrel fits into the upper receiver)as to keep heat from seizing the barrel into the upper receiver in the future for future disassembly.also make sure to torque the barrel nut to the proper torque spec.(50-80in. lbs.) according to john noveske for my stainless steel 300 blackout barrel.i called noveske and john called me back with those numbers,but it may be different for yours,so i would call to make sure.good luck!

OP, you did the right thing clamping the barrel and not the receiver.
Barrel take-offs are what usually fuk up receivers if not restrained correctly.

The correct grease is molybdenum (moly) fortified grease such as Aero Shell 33MS
(Valvoline Moly (Ford) grease is close to spec and easily accessible, part #VV 632)
These moly greases are usually dark gray in color and contain no graphite.

The correct torque range for the barrel nut is 30 - 80 ft lbs.
Try to stay on the lower end of that.