I am reading these forums looking to buy my first AR. Will eventually probably come in to the home defense role with a red dot, training, and familiarity, but I feel like I want some good ol’ fashioned range time with irons just to get used to the platform.
Have 1k rounds earmarked for reliability and familiarity testing and want to start with irons and some good range time. Personal habit, I guess, to get good and used to irons on a gun before I start adding things.
So I was wondering, are any of the BUIS rear sights on the market good “range” sights without compromising the rugged nature needed of a BUIS or should I start off with a carry handle if I want that kind of thing for a while, then buy a set of BUIS when I get a red dot.
I have seen the LMT one, looks like a chopped carry handle. Have seen some that are literally chopped carry handles. Anyone have input on either of these styles, or any of the other BUIS that might be good for some 100m paper punching? I am most interesting in fixed ones but that’s based on a lack of faith in moving parts more than actual knowledge.
In a nutshell: any BUIS sights decent for paper target range use without making big compromises to their essential qualities as a backup sight?
It’s hard to beat the LMT sight, very rugged and will do you well. When running a dot, it’s a great match, I prefer to lower 1/3 set up. I like the advantage of the sight wheel, great for longer ranges if you can shoot that far on the range to take advantage of it. The Larue is a nice one as well, no elevation though. If planning to go with an ACOG, then go with a Troy, solid and will fit under a variable also.
Ref other fixed rears, I’ve seen cross"screws" break off.
I’ve run a few LMT rears and prefer the Daniel Defense rear.
The DD is less expensive, has no large knob protruding from the side, no exposed windage knob to get knocked around and change zero(it uses and A1 style windage knob), and no elevation adjustment (fewer unnecessary parts).
On a match rifle I may want an elevation adjustable rear, but on my fighting rifle I find it unused.
I swapped to the larue fixed BUIS after first using the arms#40 folding BUIS.
The arms #40 required me to use 2/3 of the windage adjustment to zero the larue required just 5-8 clicks from center to zero. No big deal they both zeroed and the arms held the zero. But I much prefer the larue BUIS I have found that my groups tend to be tighter with the fixed BUIS why I don’t know but it does group better for me.The larue is streamlined light weight and durable and it matches up good with a larue aimpoint mount lt-150 lower 1/3 cowitness. The DD looks to be a good option also. I use 50 yard BZ so there is no hold over until you get past 200 yards I can’t see having a elevation adjustment on the BUIS for HD carbine. One less thing to have to deal with.
I meant to mention they were the exposed type cross screw(s) as in a DPMS, one over torqing and the other was smacked in traing. I’ve gorilla gripped many LMT’s and beat them with no issues. The recessed type’s are fine, always use blue thread locker and lay off the juice when tightening:cool:
I have paint marks on mine-I have yet to see one move unless someone turns it.
I have my LMT’s set 8 clicks below zero and zero’ed at 100, 4 up for 2 if I need that precision and to 6/3 for three and etc, etc–works well if you need irons at longer distances vs trying to hold over. No kidding they are back ups to the Aimpoint-again-if you need them at that longer distance, it’s nice.
Bottom line-it depends on what you want/need and how you want to set them up.
And default to the 40 pigmy rule---------(ref the next post as in “how will you know at night if they’ve moved?”
“What if 40 pigmies with machine guns Halo in on top of us right now?, what will we do?”----joke feom all the what if’s during training, etc.–had to do it!
If you plan on using electronic optics, a folding BUIS would be your best bet. That said, I have an A1 upper and use a red dot on the rail in front of it. It works fine. You can co-witness your irons on the lower 3rd of the optic so that if it fails, you simply move your cheek weld down and use your irons through your optic. That only works with non-magnified optics, though.