I got a good deal on a M4s with a Larue mount. One problem. One of the mounting screws is stripped, and I want to remove it and use a Bobro mount.
The original owner said he tried heating after the intial stripping hoping to loosen up the loctite that came on it from Larue.
I was going to get the “grab it” remover from Lowes, will that work or is there a better method or tool?
I used that on an ACOG screw. Still might be helpful to apply some heat, though I thought LaRue only applies blue loctite. The brain trust at Trijicon applied RED to the ACOG in question according to the rep I spoke with about the issue.
Are the threads stripped, or is the head rounded out? You’re saying “stripped” which is making be think threads, but the context you’re using it in suggests you mean “rounded”, referring to the head.
I’ve got some stuff called Bellzona that is basically what jb weld wished it was. This stuff is incredible, but expensive. It also has a release agent so it wont stick to something you don’t want it to stick to. If the easy out fails hit me up and I’ll send you some. If I were using it doing what you are, I would get a throw away allen/torx wrench, put this stuff around the screw head with wrench installed & hold it till it cures. Then put a soldier iron top to the opposite end of the bolt to heat it then unscrew.
Either way, if using the easy out, use the iron to put heat to both sides of the bolt. It will cause the bolt to grow and reduce the torque on it. I have seen industrial hydraulic cylandars with bolts that had several thousand lbs of torque and guys trying to break them free with a 10 ft pipe welded to a wrench, standing jumping on the pipe. 5 min heating with a rosebud on the rods/nuts will allow you to turn it loose by hand.
The last Larue mount I got had red loc-tite on the ring screws.
Left handed drill bit after heating the bolt with the tip of a soldering iron. Usually can get the left handed drill bits to bite in depending on if there is any meat left. Otherwise might need to real carefully drill out the head and then use some vice grips and heat on the shank that is left.
Another viable option, JBweld - to stick something more grabbable and torquable to the stripped head. A nut, a sacrificial allen wrench, etc.
Like I say with these metalwork how do I threads, there are several ways to skin this cat. Do what you are comfortable with. Priority in this case though, you need to degrade the red loctite.
If you have appropriate physical access to the bolt/screw and if all else fails find a competent welder - TIG ideally, MIG secondarily. I’ve often tack welded a fresh bolt to the head of the rounded bolt. Works like a charm for stubborn bolts.
Loosen up the other screws. Sometimes that will be enough to relieve the pressure on the split ring so you can remove the one with the stripped head.
Or, simply drill the head off. Go slow and use drill lube. A cobalt split tip is the best drill bit to use. If the screw is 3/16, use a #10. If it’s a 5/32 use a #20 or #21. If it’s a 1/8, use a #30. Drill just deep enough to break the head off
I’m assuming you’re talking about this style mount and the screw is to the ring