this spring i got my first AR, i got a rock river arms entry tactical. i would like to start making some modifications to it this summer but i dont want to b spending a small fortune just yet on it. i was thinking about possibly making mods to the bolt, but i am new to ARs and want some other builders opinions on were i should start.
so if any of u could give me some tips that would b a great help. Thanks 
First things 1st I would do to an RRA is. Neds 5.56 chamber reamer and ream the chamber.2nd Re-stake the buffer tube because RRA doesnât 3rd check and Re-stake gas key if it needs it. You mentioned bolt mods 4th upgrade would be a LMT or BCM bolt. 5th good mags GI with magpul followers or P-mags. 6th correct buffer H- buffer if you plan to shoot alot of .223 pressure ammo or maybe H-2 buffer if you shoot mostly 5.56 pressure. After that maybe a sprinco standard [blue] cs buffer spring.
Have you shot it yet??
What kind of mods are you going to make to the bolt?
Welcome aboard, viperpit7. Youâve come to the right place. Where in WI are you? I lived in Omro just outside of Oshkosh for a while. Cute little town.
What mods were you considering, and more importantlyâŚwhy? Iâm with The_Katar on this one â shoot it a bunch first. See what you find to be less than optimal, and then go from there.
There are a lot of things to do with an AR - some practical, some cosmetic, some very specialized to certain applications - but starting to change a bunch of stuff around without some context of what you want and why you want it, it could end up just wasting money.
A fairly easy one is the set screw mod on the rear takedown detent. Makes it nice and easy when you choose to change the base plate to an ASAP or something else, the spring doesnât go flying.
Iâm sure you can find a how-to somewhere for it. I spent maybe ten dollars on it between the set screw and the 4-40 tap and drill.
A fairly easy one is the set screw mod on the rear takedown detent. Makes it nice and easy when you choose to change the base plate to an ASAP or something else, the spring doesnât go flying.
Iâm sure you can find a how-to somewhere for it. I spent maybe ten dollars on it between the set screw and the 4-40 tap and drill.
While itâs inexpensive and not that big a deal, I view that mod as very much a âwhy bother?â sort of thing. Really, how often do you replace the endplate on your rifle? Once? Maybe twice? The irony is youâre going to at least that much trouble (and more) to do the mod in the first place.
Beat me to it.
Needed modifications to a basic AR configuration generally reveal themselves with use.
You mention modifying the bolt, why? What is the current bolt not accomplishing for you?
Personally, if it were me:
- Stake everything that needs staking.
- Replace the extractor spring and insert with BCM parts.
- Run it until something breaks.
If you are completely new to the world of ARâs, before looking at mods or accessories, I would start out with:
Study The Operators Manual And Maintenance Manual
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Learn the disassembly/inspection/cleaning/reassembly/function checking of the weapon.
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Learn how the weapon operates, the correct nomenclature of its parts, and how those parts interact with each other.
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Learn your iron sights. Become proficient with them. Learn the procedures for zeroing the weapon.
ohm to answer most peoples questions, i am new to most AR stuff and the reason i mentioned the bolt is because i figured it would b an easy place to start, ive got around prob 300 rounds through it so far, the only things i wish were a little diffrent are 1. muzzle control is a little odd, i wish there was a bit steadier recoil on it or maybe it is just me? 2. i wish it fired a LITTLE bit easier/free-er/ faster? if u catch my drift i have a RRA tactical stage 2 triger which is supposed to b all the buzz rite now, but it is a little bit too much pull⌠i want a lighter trigger. those are about the only things i dont like so far.
I think you should shoot it some more, and preferably get a little bit of instruction/training before making any changes to try and alter the recoil. A basic AR doesnât have a very significant recoil impulse, and a proper grip/stance/technique can make it very controllable. Beyond that, muzzle devices can help in this area and are an easy swap and better yet are less likely to have some adverse affect on the function of the weapon than messing with the internals. Changes to the bolt/carrier/buffer/spring system can help as well but need to be well-understood and carefully applied since it can cause problems if one starts swapping parts semi-randomly.
- i wish it fired a LITTLE bit easier/free-er/ faster? if u catch my drift i have a RRA tactical stage 2 triger which is supposed to b all the buzz rite now, but it is a little bit too much pull⌠i want a lighter trigger.
Iâm generally just fine with a standard single stage generic AR trigger so I donât have much advice for this one.
What are you using the rifle for? Home defense? Competitions? LEO/Mil? Range toy?
Thereâs a million and one different ways to set up an AR, and knowing itâs primary use drives gear choices.
I bought my AR as a fightinâ rifle. When I first bought it I added all sorts of crap, and after taking a few carbine classes found that most of it just didnât work. Iâve since taken a lot more carbine classes and participate in âtactical shootsâ (think IDPA with rifles, minus the dumb rules) and have a MUCH better idea of what my rifle needs to suit me better. If thatâs your goal, go through some classes first and see what works and what doesnât, often times youâll get to try out a lot of different setups and see how things work in real life.
If itâs a range toy then do whatever makes you feel good, thatâs the point. For a dedicated competition gun just go to those matches and see what people are running, Iâm sure theyâll help you get started with the proper gear to get better times.
[QUOTE=Joeywhat;651459]What are you using the rifle for? Home defense? Competitions? LEO/Mil? Range toy?
rite now i am just using it for a range toy, may hunt some coyotes with it, but i just want to make it more effecient is all.
i live in a small part of wisconsin, in dunn county so idk how much there is out here for classes on ARs and such or even competitions for that matter.
when i bought the gun it had a solid front sight on it, if i wanted to change it out for a back up sight, how would i go about removing the one i have on?
Easiest way? Shave off the upper portion of the sight block.
The more difficult way, remove your gas tube, knock out the two retaining pins, remove your flash suppressor and slide it off. But then you have to install a low profile gas block, which brings us back to the easy way.
The most combat reliable AR-15s made should have the following: (IMO.)
- Nickel Boron, or Teflon on upper receiver, lower parts kit, and bolt carrier group.
Here you have options.
*Spikeâs Tactical Bolt Carrier Group
*FailZero Bolt Carrier Group
*LWRCi Bolt Carrier Group (If youâre going to install a piston - Essentially not needed. But I like it, and wonât withhold the information.)
- Nitriting the barrel. Barrel should be cold hammer forged.
Most barrels on the market are cold hammer forged anyway. If I bought a bushmaster, Iâd get rid of the barrel anyway. You donât have to, but itâs just a suggestion. Iâd recommend BCM, or Noveske. (More towards Noveske.)
- 9310 for bolt material, it would be optimal if bolt also had Nickel Boron/Teflon coating.
Recommended Bolts:
Colt, BCM, Spikeâs Tactical, LWRCi Advanced Combat Bolt. (Not proprietary.)
- Better trigger
Iâd recommend. LMT 2 stage, KAC 2 stage match, or LWRCi enhanced fire control group. (or LWRCi Nickel Teflon Coated LPK while your at it, though the Bushmaster LPK should serve you just fine.)
- Heavier barrel (double chrome lined, with match chambers)
See Noveske barrels.
- 5 Coil Extractor Spring
A must on all defensive ARs in my opinion.
- Chrome Silicon Extra-Power Action Springs
Sprinco makes these. Will help with a neglected rifle, DI or Gas Piston.
Relatively cheap, with a noticeable upgrade in reliability, and making sure the weapon properly goes into battery, even in AK like conditions.
- H2 (or H3) buffers (Spikeâs Tactical ST-T2 buffer is my choice. FWIW.)
This makes the Extra Power Action Springs all the more effective.
- Midlength gas systems
Less parts wear, softer shooting.
- A Piston (If it REALLY makes you feel betterâŚ)
Not needed, but if you arenât comfortable with the attributes of the DI system, and itâs problems, and virtues. Then you have the option of a short stroke Gas Piston. It has different problems, and virtues, which I prefer, but to each his own. The DI system will serve you JUST fine. If you choose to go this route, I strongly recommend, Adam Arms with the LWRCi bolt carrier, they sell them on their website.
- Gas Block Mounted Front Sights (longer sight radius, lower profile sights)
KAC makes my preferred set of Gas Block Sights, though they cost more than most barrel assemblies.
Alternatively VLTOR makes a Gas Block Mounted Front Sight, much cheaper, very effective.
- Crane O-Rings
Helps with extraction.
If this rifle will be used to defend your life, this is my recommendation, while itâll be no doubt pricey, how much if your life worth? When you need it, you REALLY need it.
Input from others about my recommendations are welcome, and I hope for them to weigh in.
Please donât upgrade anything. You donât need to. Iâve never felt the need for an upgraded bolt and probably never will. Iâd rather have ammo and training.
Sounds like you need a red dot optic ammo, mags, and training. Did I mention training? Has anyone else? This is a clue. Take a carbine class.
it never ceases to amaze me how quickly people want to go about âimprovingâ things without the first idea about whatâs wrong with what theyâve got.
Perhaps we can guide himâŚ