A while back GotM4 (Robb/Ralph) mentioned staking the roll pin in buffers. I happened to be doing routine maintenance on my main blaster and I noticed the roll pin on my H2 buffer was drifting out to the point that it was probably chingering with the recoil spring.
I ended up trimming a little off the roll pin and staking the damned thing in place.
Yes, it happens. If the pin walks enough, it can catch the spring and create a stoppage. I peen the edges a bit to keep it in place. I’ll see if I have a photo.
How I do it is to shorten the roll pin 1/4", then reinstall it, then stake metal from the buffer body into the hole for the pin so it can’t walk out easily…it works.
It happened in Iraq with one of the Bushies. Unfortunately it wasn’t noticed right away and it caused some issues. I wonder if a small amount of an epoxy on both ends would do the trick?
I’ve heard of the buffer roll pin backing out, but have yet to personally have one back out on me.
Staking it in place is not a bad idea, and is definitely one of those quick DIY procedures that anyone can perform which will only make your weapon that much more reliable and will definitely eliminate that possibility.
Epoxy might work as well, but I would be concerned with the chances of it eventually breaking loose or not bonding well to the buffer. I think mechanically fixing the roll pin in place through staking would be the way to go and would be more of a permanent fix.
I may have to give a go at this, and if I do, I’ll post the results with pics.
Well since mine was sticking out about 1/8" already, I just filed that 1/8 off. Then I drifted it back so it was centered with about 1/16" on each side and staked it.
It doesn’t take much… just bend some metal into the pin hole.
I tried staking an old buffer I keep as a spare. I wasn’t too impressed with the idea after I tried it.
The buffer wall is pretty thin. So thin that I feel if too much material is removed from the roll pin, the roll pin is no longer resting against sufficient buffer material to retain the rubber bumper.
Another draw back was the fact that after staking one side of the roll pin, when I spun the buffer over to stake the opposite side, the force of staking pushed the roll pin back in the opposite direction, pushing the first stake material outwards.
Another viable option to a walking buffer roll pin, might be drilling the roll pin hole larger, and going with the next size up roll pin.
Interesting point. I haven’t pulled a carbine buffer completely appart to see if this is an issue. But I already had some buffers where the roll pin was so short it was beneath the buffer body on at least one end already.
Another option is to use green locktite, once pin is in correct position and not sticking out. Its designed to secure items in place AFTER assembly. Creeps into assembly. As long as buffer doesn’t get very hot, should work.
Use blue or red locktite if pin has to be removed for shortening.
Flaring might work Ned. But the flared end would have to be no larger than the body of the buffer so that the spring wouldn’t drag on it.
I stake mine because I’ve had the pin start to come out. This makes it drag along the buffer spring as it cycled and then it caused stoppages. I could also hear a change in the buffer spring sound. The delrin bumper never came off at any time.
The staking holds, I’ve never had a roll pin walk after staking.