I finished my SPR build last week. I took it to the range last Friday to get it on paper. Took it out again today as the ammo I ordered had come in. It shoots well given a so far limited count. Not sure if the grouping is acceptable or subpar as I am new to this precision stuff.
Ammo fired:
Fiocchi .223 77gr Sierra MatchKing HPBT (40rnds)
Hornady Black .223 75gr BTHP (20rnds)
Last Friday I wasn’t able to find any BH MK262 or any match grade ammo locally besides some Gorilla 69gr Sierra MatchKing OTM, which I used to get it on paper. I had ordered the Fiocchi to the range shop as well as some Federal Gold Medal .223 77gr Sierra MatchKing, which the Federal hadn’t come in yet so I grabbed the Hornady.
All shots were at a 100y with 10 shot groups. The first pic was honing it in. The second pic was my best group.
Just finished my SPR project as well, I have it on paper but no serious groups just yet. I’m looking forward to load development for it. Have you tried other bullet weights yet?
I may be going against the grain here, but if you aren’t shooting off of a mechanical benchrest with a bunny ear rear bag, don’t shoot 10 round groups. While statistically they are more accurate (not sure if that’s the right word) than 3 or 5 round groups, they will be effected by the most important part of the gun/rifle/shooter combo…the shooter. Ten round groups off of a rear squeeze bag and a bi-pod is fatiguing. In the heat, or if you have bad vision and strain through a scope, all of this and more will all effect the outcome. We can have a whole discussion about groups but ask yourself what is more important; shooting small groups or hitting exactly what you’re aiming at with the first shot?
Use groups to prove the mechanical accuracy of the system, which is the rifle, ammo and shooter combo. First shot hits are the goal. Nothing to me is more unimpressive than a tight group that is 2" from the bulls-eye.
For proving mechanical accuracy…Don’t use those shoot-and-see type targets. Get something that has a nice bold aiming point you can use at the distance you’re placing it at. Smaller isn’t always better. One of the ranges I shoot at is positioned in such a way that in the afternoon the sun splashes all of the targets. White paper with a neon aiming point will give you a metric shit ton of eye strain. A black NRA bulls eye target on the almost tea colored paper backing is a joy by comparison.
Good start. Those are not bad for 10 round groups. Try a few different types of ammo and see what it likes. It seems like the MK 262 is very consistent across most guns accuracy wise, so i would definitely run it when you get it. Same with the GMM
Can you share some details on the build? Barrel, trigger, glass, etc…?
I agree that we need more details about the build/glass. If you’re shooting those with a 6-8X scope, then they aren’t bad at all. If that’s using a 20-24X scope, I’d expect tighter. I was shooting my ATACR 1-8 yesterday at 100, and about 1moa was the best I could do. That said, I rolled over to a steel plate at 475 yds and had a first round hit. Point is, that 1-8 isn’t the greatest “target” scope, but it was made to hit bad people from a decent distance out.
Your group size is relevant to what the gun/glass is, and what it’s best at.
I used ten round groups because the question of - “is the rifle not only accurate, but precise?” I believe three round groups to be a solid measure of accuracy and precision for a defensive/combat/patrol/duty rifle as getting hits on a torso size area at the effective point target range of said rifle is the desired intent as well as preserving resources. A five round is a good inbetween and ten rounds a definitive data point. Shooter matters most.
I personally don’t think a full on supported rest is necessary as it won’t be available in real world scenarios if that is your thing nor competitions etc (that I know; could very well be wrong). I was using a bipod and a Weibad mini range cube.
I forgot to post pics, my fault on that.
An SPR but not a MK12 clone:
BCM 18” SS410 barrel Ionbond black
VLTOR MUR Upper
Noveske Gen I chainsaw lower
BCM LPK
BCM 13” KMR-A
BCM gas tube
BCM low-pro gas block
BCM A5 RE w/ green Spingco spring and standard weight A5 buffer
BCM QD end plate
Magpul STR stock
Inforce WML on a BCM KM mount
BCM FDE Ionbond BCG
KAC offset 600m micro irons
Geissele Super Precision 30mm extended mount
Nightforce 2.5x10-24mm Mil/Mil optic
Geissele Airborne CH
Atlas bipod (new gen BT I forget the model) on a LaRue qd mount
Surefire Warcomp MD
BAD ambi selector
SI bolt catch
Magpul enhanced mag release (will also add a KAC ambi soon too)
Just what’s listed. Only taken it to the range twice so far.
As for targets BP, I just used what they had at the shop. I’d prefer the tan/black ones too. I plan to get more trigger time after I complete the police Academy (we are not allowed to go to the range on our own time and I started today).
Very solid parts list. I have heard very good with some bad mixed in on the BCM stainless barrels. If you get a shooter which yours is showing potential for they are very accurate.
I believe it was a member here on on the other forum was getting 3" groups with match and they said it was in spec
Yeah I have read here and there too that they are hit or miss; unfortunately after I had already purchased it. Glad it seems to not be the case with mine. So far at least. With some more time and various ammo selection I hope to bring it in more. I have no doubts a Geissele trigger will help too. Time will tell. This is making me want to venture into the larger caliber AR realm next. Maybe 6.5 or .308.
Additionally, I can shoot 5 round groups in the threes with my SPR at 200 all day long. The issue is not so much the quality of gun or shooter, but handloads.
For reference, at 600y with factory BH match I shoot about 10” groups. With my (Onyx/marks handload recipe) loads that shrinks to under 5”.
Try working up some handloads and you’ll see those shrink in half. Factory match ammo sucks for serious .223/5.56 precision work.
I’d love to venture into handloading, I just don’t have the space or time currently. I will down the road, for sure.
I went again last weekend. Hit just under 3/4 with 77gr Gorilla ammo. Best one yet. Shot some more Fiocchi, as well as some Federal 77gr. Groups tightened up a bit more overall, but the Gorilla 77gr was the best. I failed to snap some pics. I am more than impressed with this build so far.
I also lack the time/space to work up a good handload for an SPR. But if the combination of you, your barrel, and your shooting position is bringing you .75 MOA, then you’re well on your way. It could be that your barrel just needed a slight break-in to come into form, or maybe you just got used to the rifle. And like others have said, groups make great pictures on the internet, but first round impacts are what really counts. Nice looking build.
That’s good shooting with factory ammo and trigger. Good looking beast also. I just scored a Larue two stage trigger for $87 plus about $7 shipping. I have two Gisselle triggers a Rock River and Ruger 452 just thought I’d try the Larue next and at that price why not. A decent trigger will most definitely improve accuracy.
You guys should really look into reloading. You don’t need a ton of equipment to start out. I used a LEE handloader, .223 dies, Lyman tumbler, and Lyman hand tools that all fit into a shoe box, except for the tumbler. The LEE handloader and dies cost about $90.00. I was really surprised how accurately some of those reloaded rounds shot.
Obviously the more equipment and better tools will let you produce more rounds with less effort.
I’ve since purchsed several presses, additional dies, digital & mechanical scales, case trimmers, and other tools to make the process easier. My next purchase is likely a Dillon progressive press. Reloading becomes a hobby in itself.
Been exceptionally busy in the academy so my response is a little late.
I really like the optic for being my first magnified optic outside M145’s and Acogs I used on occasion in the Army. The sight picture and reticle is very clear and crisp. The built in throw level is really handy when adjusting magnification. I have not played around with the zero stop yet but will get around to it after more time and understanding the pros and cons of it. I want to get it out to some longer ranges but there are not any ranges out here past 200 yards.
