Hey guys, my AR has the stock A2 on it, and I’ve been looking at other brakes to help reduce the sound. I’m not too worried about recoil or muzzle climb because i just shoot steel and paper. I saw DPMS has a linear compensator, and so does noveske. I’m running a 16" carbine, so I’m not sure those would do much. What brakes work well for noise reduction?
Oh, you mean that you want a suppressor?
If a muzzle device reduces the Db levels, it is a suppressor…
Brakes don’t reduce sound. And they are for recoil and muzzle flip.
no, but a the linear compensators say they reduce the sound the shooter hears, it redirects it i guess. I dont want to do a surpressor
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5594/Product/Levang-Linear-Compensator it says it redirects the noise, and i was wondering if there were others that did that and if they were any good
I have used a Levang (I’m glad I didn’t buy it, and I’m glad it isn’t on my carbine,) or something so similar I can’t tell the difference from looking at it…
Honestly, wear earpro, or get a can. Simple as that.
I personally don’t find enough benefit from that thing to be worth the outlay of $35. I’d rather put that $35 towards good earpro…
Even with the linear compensator, it will ring your bell with its redirection. I use them on an ar when I feel like watching the the muzzle not move. Good for that. Not for sound reduction.
How about the vortex? I’ve heard it’s the best cage you can get for flash ? Anyone have experience with it?
If it reduces sound then it will be considered a suppressor and as such it becomes a case of “Hello tax stamp!”. If you want an example of a brake/flash suppressor, look at the XM177’s muzzle device. You can however redirect the noise and Noveske’s KX3 Flash Suppressor which redirects the muzzle blast away from the shooter.
The OP appears to be wanting a compensator, not a flash suppressor which you seem to be recommending and the Vortex does absolutely nothing to effect noise.
He also said he does not want a supressor, and your saying that he is not looking for a flash suppressor, to which your recommending one. I understand it you can redirect the noise with it and all but I’ve also heard that the vortex does the same, I do not have experience with either of them though that’s why I asked. It was more of an idea then a reccomendation, but thanks for clearing it up that it will not work for what he is looking for . I do know that the vortex shows almost no flash if any…again though not what the OP is looking for
if theres no great option for sound reduction, whats a good brake to reduce recoil?
Sound reduction and muzzle brake don’t belong in the same sentence. You’ll make the people at the range shooting next to you really happy and by happy I mean annoyed.
An A5 setup.
That with a standard rifle spring and an A5 buffer (regular weight) allows me to shoot at 6x (100yd range) with my scope and see the target the whole time . Very little muzzle rise and the recoil impulse goes straight back. Just using an A2 birdcage flash hider.
Plus it won’t piss off the person shooting next to you.
Tapatalk ate my spelling and grammar.
Exactly. Muzzle brakes simply piss off the people next to you at the range.
A muzzle brake on an 5.56 rifle doesn’t even reduce recoil, since 5.56 has no recoil…(if you think it does, you need to man up. Sheesh! :D)
However, 5.56 is loud, which is why quite a few folks here have jumped through the NFA hoops and invested in suppressors…
okay, maybe recoil wasnt the right word. If i can get it to jump less after shots, that would be nice too. I’m not even 18 yet, and theres not a chance in hell my dad would do a surpressor, and I dont want to pay for it. I shoot on our land so I dont care about pissing off people around me since there really arent people around me.
Then shoot some more.
I’m kidding. But sometimes people buy a brake and let it become become a crutch. Refine your technique on the weapon you have before you, as is, before you invest in a brake or other gadgets.
The PWS FSC556 should fit the bill if you want a little muzzle flip reduction. Beware though that it is loud to stand next to but if that isn’t an issue for you than I’d say go for it.
Learn to control the weapon, without a gadget (compensator.)
If you simply cannot control the weapon with the stock A2 birdcage, you are doing something wrong.
Muzzle devices work by redirecting gasses (and therefore sound) according to their purpose. Sure, there are some devices made to reduce recoil are made to direct gasses (and sound) forward much like the Triad by PWS is said to do. (I’ve not witnessed it in use in real life.)
Basically if you want a break, but want the capability of reducing sound… you can just buy a break that you can attach a can to. It’ll cost you, though.
+1. This. A good athletic, balanced stance, properly shouldered weapon and driving the gun will do the trick.
If you have uncontrollable muzzle rise with a standard A2 flash hider, you are doing it wrong.
The A2 is designed to vent upward, which pushes the barrel down, while being closed off on the bottom to reduce dust kick up when in a prone position. It also is fairly effective at reducing the flash.
The Vortex, Phantom (and some others) are better flash reducers, (and a few pretty much eliminate noticeable flash), but the trade off is a much bigger cloud of dust when shooting prone, and in some cases, more muzzle movement.
Brakes on the other hand are designed to port pressure equally out of the ports to try and reduce muzzle rise (usually by porting the pressure and report to left and right) , and in doing so, create a much louder report, and in some cases, huge flash signatures (Fire Pig isn’t just a catchy name) and will kick up quite a bit of dust when shooting prone.
And the flash and dust signature are two things you WANT to reduce in a combat situation, both for concealment, and to keep your FOV as clear as possible.