Looking at silver soldering (with 1200 degree ss) a flashider/suppressor mount on a 14.5" barrel.
I know how to do it but my question is with the melonite treatment will the silver solder be able to adhere to the metal?
Here’s my opinion. How did it hold up when you performed it before? You are saying silver solder, when I really think you mean silver brazing. The things that you are going to deal with are heat, vibration and pressure. A higher silver content brazing alloy (fluxed preferably) is going to be your best bet here. How it will translate with the melonited barrel I have no idea. Usually it is ideal to braze or even solder on good, clean metal free of rust, coating or contaminants to get the best and most effective hold. There are several variables here.
Melonite isn’t a finish. It’s a heat treatment that infuses nitrates in the metal within the first few thousandths of the surface. In fact, you can even weld over it (depending on weld codes as some try to reduce nitrogen content)
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Why would you risk f—ing it up brazing when you could have it pinned and welded for thirty bucks??
I agree. Get a local gunsmith to Tig weld it and call it good.
I’ll third that. I’d never silver solder anything near my barrel.
I don’t think that silver solder would be the best for doing this for many reasons. I would lean towards other methods.
The reason is that the flash hider/brake mount doesnt have any ideal spots to drill and I dont want to jack up the taper fit for the can.
A good smith can find a good spot. Silver solder is never acceptable.
I don’t know what the mount is or what can may be involved, but if the device is mounted in the mill for the drilling, leave it there for a TIG spot weld and remove any potential “high spots” with it still indexed. That makes it pretty easy, I wouldn’t recommend silver solder for many reasons.
Is silver solder ATF approved? I thought not without a pin.
Edit: thanks IG.
The ATF procedure for measuring barrel length is to measure from the closed bolt (or breech-face) to the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device. Permanent methods of attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over. Barrels are measured by inserting a dowel rod into the barrel until the rod stops against the bolt or breech-face. The rod is then marked at the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device, withdrawn from the barrel, and
measured.
I’ve seen them pinned through the ratchet and between the acme threads. Key word being “good smith”.
thanks for the feedback…
here is the mount in question. (Crux)
Not too difficult to drill out on a mill or drill press. Dimple it first to help keep the bit from walking.
You would be better off submitting a Form 1.
And becoming a well defined blip on the radar!
He’s already in the NFA game if he’s getting a can for it. Might as well F1 the lower right away.