I was discussing Sig pistols and my The Trigger Guy pistol smith said, "when you dry fire Sigs the striker hits plastic and it gives the feeling that they are not crisp like M&P’s etc. What do the experts say, I don’t know shit but found it interesting.
PB
I’m not sure which plastic the striker allegedly hits, but the Sigs have a less pronounced breaking point and it seems the striker doesn’t strike as hard as say a Glock. Personally, the “crisp” trigger moniker is a misnomer and does not contribute to marksmanship quite like a rolling break.
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I’m of the understanding that the frame fit can affect the trigger pull. Not sure how, just something I learned when discussing the adoption of the M17.
He showed me in comparison but it all goes out the window when firing a live round.
PB
Were they talking about where the blade protrudes through the frame into the trigger guard. Over the years, I’ve had Glocks that rubbed one side and there was always extra friction I could feel in dry fire. Seemed not to matter in live fire.
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I’m unsure. I asked someone in the know (Apex Tactical) their opinion while buying Glock parts. Mostly, is it different enough than a Glock to justify purchasing once I’m issued one(like the M9) or is is just another striker fired pistol? He mentioned the trigger/frame fit while giving me an overview, and nothing else really stuck out.
Did you decide to purchase one?
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I probably will when I’m issued one. Until then, it doesn’t do anything my Glock won’t, I like 1911s more, and the M9 is still what I’m issued.
It is my impression that the Sig strikers are fully cocked when charged, and the sear simply releases them when fired. My experience with Sigs is limited to the P320/M17 and the P365.
The Sigs are more conventional gunmaking, with a steel chassis and steel parts interacting.
I like Glocks, but have to say I shoot the Sig triggers better, and my G19.5 actually has more of a rolling break like the Sig.
Moon
I’m with you. I’ve got both and significantly shoot the Sig better in stock configuration. I have to modify a Glock to beat the factory Sig X-Carry.
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I know how to detail strip the slide on the P365, but just haven’t been brave enough to do it just yet.
PB’, I wonder if your ‘smith was referring to something in the Sig striker to cushion it in dry fire, keeping it from a real crisp ‘click’? Even Glocks have a rep for breechface fractures if they’re dry fired enough.
I’m just speculating and talking out my derriere here, but it’s a thought.
Isllc, I’m just astounded how well I shoot the P365 trigger; none of the ‘push to the left’ that I sometimes get with Glock triggers. My tendency is just to roll it thru’, and the sights stay put. But I’m an old revolver guy. Not to mention just plain old.
Moon
I shot my Sigs today next to my G45. Definitely agree there. I think a rolling break is key to good accuracy, though I’ve nearly 3,000 rounds though the G45 and have shot Glocks for 12-15 years, I can outshoot it with a Sig.
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The reason the Sig striker hits softer is there is a small spring that cushions the striker when released. Glocks do not have anything to slow the striker when it releases, so it has a harder hit.
As far as triggers go, yes the 320 and almost all other striker guns, except a few, have fully cocked striker systems. The slide resets the striker to the full cocked position, just like a single action.
Glock use a 3.4 cocked striker system. The slide cycles, and brings the striker to around 2/3 of the way back. When you pull the trigger, it brings the striker back to the full cocked position then releases it.
Where a lot of accuracy problems stem from when shooting glocks, is most folks want to work the triggers like a single action pistol. Glock aren’t very forgiving to bad trigger and grip inputs.
The best way to think about it is when shooting a glock, shoot it like you would a DAO or revolver. This is also why glock has moved toward a rolling break with the 5th Gen guns. A smooth complete trigger pull works best with glocks using a stock fire control parts.
It is very difficult to take up the slack to the wall, then press the break in a glock with a stock trigger. There is a lot going on in there, and this can translate into a lot of gun movement, degrading accuracy. If you put a competition trigger in a glock you can run to wall and break quite a bit better. You are basically trying to lighten the weight required to get past the break. Most people don’t want to lighten their trigger this much in a carry or defense gun, and I agree.
Sig pistol are easier to shoot accurately overall than Glock pistols, because of their trigger characteristics. It’s basically a single action trigger, and just about everyone can shoot a single action pistol well.
I can shoot glocks and my Sig’s the same, but I understand the bio mechanics of the different trigger systems and compensate for the differences between them.
When you hear people talk about learning how to shoot a glock accurately, this is what they have learned how to do. Work with the trigger system in the glock. Either by learning the glock trigger control method, or using more hand strength to compensate for the added movement.
This is all based on my experiences with glocks and other pistols, YMMV.
10 yards with a stock 19X, except it is black… 
7 top and 12 bottom, yards stock 19.5
Yes I can do the same with my sigs, just takes a bit more thought with the Glock
TXPO
For me, my errors start to show around the 20-25 yard mark with Glocks. Give me a rolling break and my accuracy gets better. I’m liking my g45. I’ve had it since they were released and been putting about 1k a month through it. The older Gen Glocks I need a replacement trigger that “rolls” a little more, otherwise I compensate with grip that I pay for with elbow pain.
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Having owned and practiced with both, I never really thought about it until reading this, but they really do feel different. Good info, thanks for posting. Side note, I don’t feel like I’m necessarily more accurate with the P320 series, but that’s because they don’t get as much use as the G19, which came first. I might have to dedicate some time to really trying to perfect the Sig, and see how if it starts to really shine for me.
Tex, great summary, and I agree with virtually all of it.
I find the P365 has a rolling break that goes straight thru, while the Glock (it’s less in the Gen 5) still hits a wall, then will jump a little…pulling straight back and using the distal joint helps.
I said the hell with it, and detail stripped the P365’s slide; you are exactly right about a spring that makes the striker retreat from the breechface, and re-engage the safety block; it would also cushion the striker’s fall.
I’ve not detail stripped the chassis yet, but there’s probably no need; one pin, and its out of the poly shell, and it’s easy to clean the gunk.
Best,
Moon