I just got my AR yesterday.
And someone told me it was bad to shoot 5.56 from this, or it could of been the other day around and been .223.
I’ve always thought they were the same bullet.
But should i be shooting .223 like the remington ones at walmart that say .223 on the box?
Or look for ones that say 5.56 NATO?
Here is my gun
Its a Double Star 15 CAR / 16" / HBAR
What is the barrel marked?
Says DSC 5.56 NATO
I didnt even notice that.
So thats what i should shoot?
The barrel will be stamped for caliber. If it’s stamped for 5.56 NATO shoot whichever you like.
If it’s stamped for .223. Shoot .223 only.
You’ll also need some kind of riser to get your red dot sight higher so you can actually see over the front post.
Haha yea i know. I just put it on there for looks.
Im on a budget so im going to get some iron sights to do me for now.
I have to buy the .22 conversion kit first, then im going to get a scope when my birthday comes around.
This is correct. Just to further educate the OP. The barrel marking refers to what the barrel’s chamber is set up for. While .223 and 5.56 are the same size round, 5.56 fires at a higher pressure and therefore requires a slightly larger chamber.
-TS
Where can i get 5.56 bullets?
When i go to walmart all i see is the Remington .223’s
At the pawnshop they have some wolf .223’s but they are steel casing. but there only like 5 dollars for 20.
i shot about 200 yesterday with no jams, so i guess there fine.
As far as bullets go, they’re both the same and are actually .224.
You can safely shoot .223 or 5.56 loaded cartridges out of your rifle.
Wolf is well suited for that firearm and your application.
I’d say practice with what’s cheap and reliable.
The thought process being to shoot as frequently as possible.
That being said, mixing wolf and brass, without cleaning the chamber I’ve heard you can run into issues.
The Lacquer on the steel ammo will accumulate on the chamber, steel doesn’t expand or change as much in shape when the casing is shot as brass.
The problem is, the expansion of the brass into the residual lacquer will end up in the casing getting stuck.
I’ll be shooting .223 Rem Wolf once I complete my BCM AR.
ETA: That being said, I’d get 5.56mm for Self Defense, and zero your optic and BUIS to that ammo, depending on the twist, would depend on the grain bullet you get.
But then again, some people shoot 75 gr 5.56mm out of 1/9 twist barrels with no issue.
So YMMV.
Online is what I’ve found to be the best place for ammo.
This is where I get most of my ammo:
http://www.jgsales.com/index.php/ammo-for-rifles/223-rem-5-56mm-nato-/cPath/12_38
I usually get Brown Bear. It’s a little higher quality than wolf.
Sort of a thread hijack, but it might be useful to you anyway… does anyone know if there is any truth to the theory that you shouldn’t shoot brass after steel without cleaning? The thought is the steel doesn’t seal well in the chamber and the chamber gets gunked up with carbon. Then the brass doesn’t chamber right and expands more than the steel, causing whatever damage it would cause.
Edit: a little late on the steel question I guess. BTW, I’ve heard that they don’t use the lacquer anymore. Or at least it’s a different kind and doesn’t melt off.
I wouldn’t say I’m an authority on the matter by any means.
But that’s what I’ve heard is the common consensus.
ETA: Brown Bear, the ammo you cited, is steel and lacquered, I haven’t played with either, as I won’t shoot steel cased though my handguns, but, let’s wait and see what the hive mind thinks.
Wow thats cheap 1000 rounds for just 269 bucks…
On cheaper than dirt 1000 rounds is 600 sumthin bucks.
I said it was bad to shoot 5.56 out of rifle chambered for .223 due to the higher loads. Since yours is chambered in 5.56 it doesn’t matter, you can shoot both.
Anyways, congrats on your new acquisition. Hope she brings many years of fun and enjoyment.
Happy shooting…
Look around a little. Cheaper than Dirt is usually more expensive for any given round. Try this site. It’s a search engine for ammo prices.
Look for Federal, Lake City, or Prvi Partizan 55gr FMJ. This is usually 5.56 XM193, which is brass cased mil surplus or overruns. It can be had for around $.36-$.41 per round.
The really cheap Wolf, XXX Bear, or Tula is usually Russian or other ex-eastern bloc steel case ammo. Just my opinion, but XM193 is about as cheap as I want to go for practice ammo. I pass on the cheap steel case stuff.
Oh my god! That sight it great! It makes the hunt so much easier. Ammo is real expensive in stores around my way at roughly $.60/round. You might have just saved me about 33%.
For 5.56, I would suggest that you get Prvi Partizan m193
I have also heard that PMC .223 Bronze is OK ( it is a little slower).
these are some places that I like to buy from on the internet:
http://www.wideners.com/itemview.cfm?dir=18|830|845
isn’t bad.
4.59 for a box of 20 .223 Rem Wolf.
If you’re a college student like me, damn near 23 cents a round isn’t bad.
Plus, plenty of people shoot Wolf, I figure, hell spend money on stuff that counts, like home defense ammo, Optics, the gun it self, the cleaning equipment you use, carrrying cases…
Hell I’ll spend a lot of money on basically everything, but cheap ammo means getting rounds down range, so I can live with that.
(I started noticing a theme there…)
http://www.ammunitiontogo.com/catalog1/
I think these guys have great prices and selection. Haven’t ordered yet, but will be very soon. Time to start stocking up for my class in September.
I’m no expert on the matter but I bet you will find a number of people on this site who would tell you that just because the barrel is marked 5.56 doesn’t necessarily mean the chamber is actually cut that way and you might need to ream it to shoot 5.56. I would at least check the chamber first. I’m sure one of the armorers here can expand more on this.