Shopping: G19 gen2/3/4

General Firearms Handguns - Semi Auto
1

Been considering picking up a g19. Was looking at gen4’s but not so excited about the gamble.

Apparently picking up a gen3 is a gamble too. I’ve heard there are “safe” years but I’m not sure how to tell. (Someone told me “P” prefix is safe?)

A gen2 g19 just popped up for sale here locally.

First part of my question is related to price. I don’t know what a gen 2 should go for, but this one is $450 dollars and includes 6 mags (1) 31 round, (1) 17 round, (3) 15 round, (1) 10 round.
Is that a decent buy?

Second question; I’ve been told when buying a gen 2 that it would either need to be a 3-letter serial number or would need the “upgrades”… what upgrades? Is this serial number information correct?

Third question; I have also been told that some gen2’s had reinforced frame rails and older ones did not…. Is this true, and if so, how can one tell if the gen2 is one that has these reinforced frame rails?

Last question; I’ve been told that gen 1 and gen 2 g19’s are not capable of the same mechanical accuracy that the gen 3’s and gen 4’s are capable of. Any truth to this, and if so, what is the general variance?

I know the 2 won’t have a light rail, which is a little bit of a bummer, but not huge. No finger grooves either, but I think that may be a positive.

OK… one more question: Any other thoughts or suggestions relative to shopping for a g19 and comparing gen2/3/4?

Thanks.

2

A lot of people strongly prefer the gen 2’s and that’s a decent price especially with all the mags. I haven’t noticed an accuracy difference between my two gen 2s and my gen 3s but I haven’t shot any of them from a rest and I’m not a particularly accurate pistol shooter. I personally really like the gen 2 frame, if you like the way it feels grab it. If you don’t carry with a light then you don’t need the rail.

As far as factory upgrades I beleive they just switched some of the black finished internals like the trigger bar for the newer designed ones which are silver. I’m not sure what the functional differences are but that should help you ID what’s in there. Some of the older gen 2s had Austrian proof marks which are kinda cool. If you google “glock serial number research project” you can figure out when a particular pistol was made.

I would’t worry too much about the frame rails or number of pins in a 9mm. You don’t hear about problems with them.

3

I actually prefer the second generation Glocks, as I’m not concerned about not having the light rail slots. I was lucky and picked one up last week for $365, in near new condition, with two mags. I don’t see the need for anything other than the standard 15 rounders.

4

Thanks, that’s helpful information.

What do you prefer about them? Is it just the lack of finger grooves?

There are several g19’s for sale locally here. This is the only gen 2.

There is an OD gen 3 with Trijicon night sights, extended slide release, glcokmeister grip plug, 3.5 lb trigger bar and 2 15 round mags - $450 or best offer.

The other one is an RTF gen 3 with 8 mags. Only change is a steel guide rod, not sure if that’s good or bad. Has 8 mags, ad simply says “make reasonable offer”.

Again , though, I don’t know how to tell if the gen 3’s are risk or not for extractor issues, and I’m not sure how to price out Glocks since I haven’t been watching them all that long.

5

Yep, I don’t like finger grooves on any gun. Some feel it helps to get a better grip, when you didn’t grab the thing right to start with. In reality, if you grab the gun while drawing quickly from a holster, the knobs can actually get in the way.

To get the proper grip, you should be indexing (jamming) your hand right to the very top of the grip, which would yield the best grip. Finger grooves really don’t help with that. Some guys file them down on Gen. 3 and 4 guns, which is easy enough to do on your own.

If you practice getting a good grip from the draw, you shouldn’t really have any issues with them. If you don’t practice from a holster, then it doesn’t matter anyway.

P.S.- The best sources I have found to check on prices of guns is to check the “completed auctions” on Gunbroker and Gun Auction.com.

6

They seem to be getting the Gen4 guns sorted out anyway.

Once Randy releases his APEX extractor, it’ll be a sure thing.

7

I wouldn’t touch a GenII 19 with a ten foot pole.
When I with NYPD they were very problematic ,many malfunctions
and phase III malfunctions.

8

For me, a light rail is mandatory for a duty gun, but I wouldn’t hesitate picking up an older 19 on the cheap to stow amongst my fishing tackle. :wink:

9

Don’t obsess, and avoid the urge to join the vigils over the gen4 9mms. Buy what you want and shoot it.

A gen2 g19 just popped up for sale here locally.

First part of my question is related to price. I don’t know what a gen 2 should go for, but this one is $450 dollars and includes 6 mags (1) 31 round, (1) 17 round, (3) 15 round, (1) 10 round.
Is that a decent buy?

The gun is worth $350-$400 depending on your local market. I would value good condition, recent, used OEM mags of unknown history at no more than $10ea.

Second question; I’ve been told when buying a gen 2 that it would either need to be a 3-letter serial number or would need the “upgrades”… what upgrades? Is this serial number information correct?

Not an issue for you.

Third question; I have also been told that some gen2’s had reinforced frame rails and older ones did not…. Is this true, and if so, how can one tell if the gen2 is one that has these reinforced frame rails?

There was a period of transitional non-FG/R frames incorporating locking block pins for those that didn’t have them already and frame insert changes. The latter evidenced by visible steel on the front surface of the frame rails. Pics:

Last question; I’ve been told that gen 1 and gen 2 g19’s are not capable of the same mechanical accuracy that the gen 3’s and gen 4’s are capable of. Any truth to this, and if so, what is the general variance?

If you aren’t capable of reaching the gun’s mechanical accuracy, don’t worry about it.

I know the 2 won’t have a light rail, which is a little bit of a bummer, but not huge. No finger grooves either, but I think that may be a positive.

Rails are only useful if you use a rail-mounted accessory. They are of no value for the overwhelming majority of owners.

Finger grooves are fine if they fit your hands. They don’t fit the hands of anyone in my house or many shooters I see.

OK… one more question: Any other thoughts or suggestions relative to shopping for a g19 and comparing gen2/3/4?

I would buy a “gen2” or a gen4 G19, as you prefer. There really isn’t an advantage in the “gen3”, as it is now mostly a transitional gun between the others.

The non-FG/R G19s (“gen2”) are in demand by many and they tend to sell fast. I often buy them when I see them.

I would very much like to see a factory gen4 without finger grooves or a rail.

10

Huh. I’ve never heard of reliability issues with gen 2 Glocks.

11

As a Gen 4 owner myself, I have been keeping up with the whole extractor issue. No disrespect to Randy, but how do so many people “know” or are convinced his extractor will fix erratic ejection or FTEs? I very well may be missing something or have missed something in the associated threads:confused:

12

Thanks for the great post skintop… I appreciate the time and effort. Helpful.

And

I’m feeling more comfortable with just picking up a gen4 - heck most of the problems don’t seem to come up until 1-2k rounds or more anyways, which will take me close to a year. Hopefully that new extractor is out by then :slight_smile:

What I am curious about is if it is worth it or not. Here in my part of AZ, a decent deal on a gen4 puts me about $100 bucks over a decent deal on gen2/3… Does the gen 4 represent enough improvement to spend $100 dollars more?

I’m not entirely sure what all the “improvements” are, however, I thought the backstraps were hokey on the one I handled at the range - not up to par with the M&P I had. The only other thing I’m aware of is the “dual recoil spring” assembly, supposedly making it softer/flatter shooting, and back on target quicker. Is this the case?

I’m probably not. I did however have an M&P FS that I could not shoot as accurately at longer ranges as I could my CZ. Went shooting with an LEO buddy who is a firearms instructor for his department, and verified the gun wouldn’t group like his sig, my CZ and some of the other more accurate pistols we had at the range that day. While I may not be able to reach most guns mechanical accuracy threshold, I was curious if the gen 2 accuracy was sub par like some of the M&P’s - in the context it was explained to me, it sounded like it was.

13

I’ve wondered the same thing but from reading the threads it seems to come down to this;

1.) It’s a fixable problem that Glock simply hasn’t handled correctly.
2.) Given that it is fixable, Randy and co’s track record indicates that if he says he can fix it, he can and will fix it.

Nevertheless, the issue has definitely had me eying HK’s and Walther’s PPQ… right now it would just me nice not to have to dick around with having a more obscure gun and all that comes with that. Plus my wife shoots and carries the Kahr P series pistols (mostly the PM9) and I would like to keep manual of arms a similar to what she shoots - she isn’t going to shoot enough to bridge a gap as I would.

How do you like your gen 4, by-the-way? Did you own a gen2/3 previously, and if so, how do they compare?