SIAP, but I’ve searched multiple forums and google and can’t find the answer to my question. I’m wearing the skin on my fingers out by twisting/untwisting these things on/off with all the different shim combos. Has anyone here already put together a general shim guide?
I have a .5x28tpi for a sig 556, and a 5/8 x 24 tpi for a LWRC Repr if someone else has already shimmed these two.
Just a thought but you could hand tighten down the brake, back it off untill clocked correctly and measure the gap left between the comp and muzzle shoulder. Using a caliper or micrometer you can then try different shim combinations until you get close to the gap dimension without chewing up your fingers. I’m not familiar with the AAC unit so if clocking isn’t required ignore the above.
unfortunately, every barrel and mount varies, so there is no type of guide.
What marty said is a good way to get close- tighten in to where you want it, and then try shoving various stacks of shims into the gap until they just wont fit.
If you can tell me how many degrees you are off from hand tight with no shims, I can get you in the ball park. I have all the combos written down somewhere around here.
On 28 tpi every .001" of shim equals 10 degrees of rotation. From hand tight you’ll need another 15-20 degrees for proper torque. My mental math failed horribly when I said that the 24 and 28 tpi combos would be close. Here the complete list.