I got three lowers in from my ffl and was wondering what exactly makes these a lesser grade than some of the others. I have a few friends that turn their noses up unless it’s a noveske or lmt. I asked them what made the price difference and the only thing I can see is the pictograph on the selector and the name. I am not trying to start a fuss about ford vs chevy, but the true differences that lie within.
Theres nothing wrong with S&W lowers. The only way you can go wrong with a lower is if its out of spec or made of pot metal. Tell your friends to kiss your ass.
I have one. For the most part it’s fine. The hole for the triggerguard roll pin is milled a bit high which has caused the Magpul MOE triggerguard to disfigure a little. But function wise it’s fine.
I have Colt, Noveske and S&W rifles. No difference on the lowers. S&W uses 7075.
Thanks guys. I was trying to research and really found no differences I could see that would matter with function. I bought these to build myself since I bought my last three.
I have a basic S&W M&P-15 with a logged 9,242 rounds on it. It is used as a work mule, loaner rifle, beater, all around carbine. It eats anything from Wolf to Milspec M855.
Granted, I am looking at throwing a new barrel on it, but… the thing just runs. It still has the mil spec trigger in it too.
I even shoot SIM rounds through it.
I don’t see a problem with the M&P stuff. But, that’s my experience with just ONE rifle.
Cheers!
I have two new M&P rifles that are as good as I can expect, especially for the price. Everything is tight and shoots/looks good. My buddy has two of the first year M&P rifles that I think were made by someone other than S&W and they both have a sloppy fit between the upper and lower and the finish is not as good as mine. Otherwise they function fine. I think it may have been hit and miss when they first started making them, but they seem to have worked out the kinks.
Great lowers. I think mine too has the high trigger guard pin hole… but that’s far from unique to M&P lowers.
I’d definitely take the M&P over an LMT any day of the week, Cleatus.
Why is it the price or avalibility?
The only ‘problem’ I have had with the M&P lower is that it has a high shelf which makes it tricky to use an accuwedge; you have to hack them down to the point of being useless. Didn’t have any problem changing out the trigger guard on mine for a magpul item, everything lined up fine.
Maybe that is a favor in disguise? Keeping one from shoving an unnecessary piece of plastic into their lower would seem to be a good thing.![]()
I’d agree…in a perfect world!
I don’t trust a thing LMT kicks out lately.
They are useless.
I looked at a quite a few stripped lowers last year and chose the M&P-15. After seeing many more since then it’s still one of the best. Really sets your build apart from just any lower. I’d buy another any time.
I had problems with a lower and they fixed it quickly by replacing the fire control. I love their receiver extensions. Any specefic problems we should be looming out for with LMT ? I have the lower and one of their 10.5" SBR’s and we have two of their uppers on guns at work they’re all running well.
I don’t like the accue wedge either. A little slop is fine for me.
Any particular reason?
Functionally, yes; however if it stops a bit of annoyance factor to the user…then great. But they ought to drop the ‘accu’ from the name.
On that point, does anyone know why some lowers have this high ‘shelf’ design (such as the m&p)? Just a different manufacturer?
Keeps you from putting in a RDIAS, which most of us cant afford anyway. I know its in the forging so maybe its whoever’s forge they go with. I dont know if some, like Colt, mill it out or if the forging is actually different. I think some choose to leave it for liability reasons, which is retarded.
I appreciate the info. I have another question if I may ask. What lpk do ya’ll prefer? I always use a standard set up on the trigger. I have used dpms lpk’s in the past and the last two lowers I built I found them to be gritty. I would like a good smooth pull if possible with a factory pull. Can I pull the fcg out and polish it? I apologize if I ask too many questions but I want to go in the right direction with these builds.