I’ve noticed similar results using Wolf SRMs and Tula 223Ms with H322, Varget, and RamShot TAC. They’re very consistant and given the price, a great value.
One thing of note, these primers and H335 do not mix. I was getting hangfires with this combo that I would not get with CCI #41 or 400 primers. Needless to say, I pulled all of these loads and didn’t mess with it again. No such issues with the above mentioned powders though.
Yeah… I ditched H335 for that reason. The primers are more valuable to me, by far, than H335.
In fact. I don’t have any ball powder anymore.
I don’t use 335 any longer either.
I found it odd that no such issue existed with the Ramshot TAC as it is also a ball powder. The SRM / 223M with TAC combo works great. I use that load for my cost effective practice ammo without issues.
Likewise, CFE and W748 would work fine with the Russian primers.
A quick update: I was using CCI #41 for the same load in markm’s OP & for the life of me, couldn’t get them to cycle reliably or lock back. Major short stroking issues. I was using a 20" BCM SS410 with an A5H2. I received some Tula KVB-5.56M primers and loaded some test rounds. Every round cycled properly and the bolt locked back on the last round. I was pretty surprised to see that the primers had that much of an impact on the cycling issues. The #41’s apparently didn’t play well with H322 for me.
I didn’t test with the chrono but I’d suspect the results would’ve been similar to markm’s. I did find that the 21.8 load had a slightly tighter group than the 21.6 loads.
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That is very interesting. I wonder if the CCIs weren’t getting an early spike in pressure. It’s like the Russian primers give off a more steady and consistent powder burn.
Yeah, I’m really surprised about it. The loads were identical in every way except for the primer. It was slightly warmer outside while doing my testing but other than that, all conditions were the same. Night and day difference in performance. I can’t totally wrap my head around it.
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IIRC, I read something somewhere that said a colder primer is better for developing an accuracy load. this was not specific to the 223/556 but it is something I have always simply accepted. do you find this to be true?..
I read a comment from German Salazar in reference to .308 Palma where he said the primers were like Little Red Ridinghood… they can either be too hot, too cold, or just right.
Too cold, and obviously they’re not reliably igniting, hang fires, etc. Too hot and you see the bigger pressure swings and corresponding group sizes.
Salazar went on to cite the guys using primers that were too hot in the Palma brass and negating the benefit. So yeah… there’s something to that.
I want to try the revolver test where you can just run the primers in some .38 spl brass with no powder or projectile… then shoot them in a low light environment to see if there’s any flash intensity correlations. My guess is that the Wolf/Tula primers would yield a lower flash.
If Wolf “223” primers and SRM primers are “magnum” primers, then shouldn’t they be putting out MORE flash than CCI #41s?
41’s are magnum primers as well. They have some other slight differences from the cci 450. They are designed for firearms with free floating firing pins.
6mmbr has an article that shows the difference in flash of several srp and lrp. Im blanking on there new name, but if you go there and search primers you should be able to find it.
The difference from primer to primer can be quite a lot. IIRC the rem 7.5’s look to be hotter than most lrp. If you have time you should check it out. I will try to find it again and post a link.
Here it is
http://www.6mmbr.com/primerpix.html
This what you were thinking of?
Wow, compared to the fireballs coming from the Remington primers, it’s no wonder that the Russian primers result in hangfires with some powders…
So a little off topic but what primers work with H335?
I don’t have any yet but I’m looking to load bulk 55 grain for training and classes.
I’m also not stuck on getting H335. I’ll get anything that’s good and I can find.
That is pretty interesting.
I’m still baffled at the amount of impact the primers had on the cycling issues I was experiencing. I’m hoping to learn more about that.
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Thats it. I posted a link before I saw you did. Those rem 7.5s are pretty hot.
Here is more REAL info on primers than most members probably want (dedicated to markm):
http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2009/06/primers-large-rifle-primer-study.html
http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2009/06/primers-small-rifle-primer-study.html
I’ve used CCI 41s with no issue. I got the CCIs because of the issues with Tulas and H335 (Tulas were the only small rifle primer I had when I came into some H335 during the powder drought of 2013).
After I finish off the H335 and the CCI 41s I doubt I’ll buy either again unless I run into another situation where those are the only things I can find. Take that for what it’s worth. The only thing I really like about H335 is that it meters extremely well. Not playing well with the Tula primers though (which are a lot cheaper than the CCI 41s by the way) is a deal breaker for me now that I have other powders to play with.
I’ve had good accuracy from Benchmark and Tula small rifle primers and 55 grain FMJs. No ignition problems either. Benchmark seems to flow pretty well through my dillon. If you’re just loading up blasting ammo in bulk I can see the appeal of H335 metering, but it’s not worth it to me to stock another type of primer.
Thanks for posting this. The first article is another bit of info I looked for but I could not find it. I have not had a chance to read the article on the large rifle primers.
Any primer BUT Wolf has worked for me with H335. The thing is, H335 brings nothing exciting to the table accuracy wise. The Russian primers do. So I pick the primers over the ability to use H335.
Cool. I’ll check that out. Thanks.