I’m currently running a set of Troy Micro Buis on my suppressed LMT 10.5" MRP. I’m planning on doing a very thorough zero within the next few days of both my back-up irons and my Eotech as I finally have access to a range up to and including 1000 yards.
My question is, how does one go about zeroing a rear iron that has no elevation adjustment? It is my understanding that you bottom out and center the rear windage and elevation, bring the front sight flush with the aperture floor and then zero and make adjustments from there. One would move the front sight post up or down for elevation, the rear sight left to right for windage, then once you’re dialed in thats your zero and you can adjust your elevation from then on with the rear; however what is the actual range for these types of irons? Is there an ideal zero? I plan on probably a 50/200 zero but may try a 36/300 yard and see how that works out.
ETA: I’m sorry, I clearly misread your post and didn’t realize you were literally asking how to zero your irons. I guess that rifle lead me to assumptions, my bad.
With that said, here is my suggestion.
Determine what distance you want to zero based on need or preference, as I said above.
Zero/confirm the EoTech at that distance.
Move rear sight left/right and front post up/down accordingly to put the EoTech dot on the tip of the front post and centered.
Turn off EoTech and confirm zero with irons only. If it doesn’t match, turn the EoTech back on and see if you need to adjust further to match the dot. If they match, reconfirm zero with EoTech. Rinse & Repeat until you can confirm POA/POI at zero with both, individually.
Yes, you can zero the irons first, then match the EoTech to the irons, but most find it much easier to zero a RDS. All zeroing elevation inputs should be done with the front post. Rear sights with up/down are for adjusting the aiming point based on distance, after the zero is established.
The first half of your sentence is correct. But I don’t see any field elevation adjustment on that rear folder… So I think you’re just holding over should you shoot beyond your POI setting.
Also… I have one of the TROY fixed front Hkish sights, and the sight post sits pretty high in the sight base. No where near mechanical zero. Still completely usable, just looks a little odd.
Same as above. I’d match the red dot to the irons. Dial in the Eotech first, then line up the irons after to save yourself some ammo to get in the ballpark. Refine your iron’s zero after.
Not to drift too far off the topic. But I do the exact opposite. Zero the irons first, lollipop the dot with the front sight tip, then refine the zero on the optic from there.
I’m currently running a set of Troy Micro Buis on my suppressed LMT 10.5" MRP. I’m planning on doing a very thorough zero within the next few days of both my back-up irons and my Eotech as I finally have access to a range up to and including 1000 yards.
My question is, how does one go about zeroing a rear iron that has no elevation adjustment? It is my understanding that you bottom out and center the rear windage and elevation, bring the front sight flush with the aperture floor and then zero and make adjustments from there. One would move the front sight post up or down for elevation, the rear sight left to right for windage, then once you’re dialed in thats your zero and you can adjust your elevation from then on with the rear; however what is the actual range for these types of irons? Is there an ideal zero? I plan on probably a 50/200 zero but may try a 36/300 yard and see how that works out.
Any suggestions?
I run a set of the Troy BUIS on my AR and the rears do not have any elevation adjustment, only windage. All your elevation adjustment will be done with the front sight and you’re windage will be done on the rear sight. After zeroing the irons I move the red dot around till the dot is on the tip of the front sight and adjust as needed. Personally on my Troy’s after zeroing them at 50yds I never have an issue shooting out to 125yds, which is the maximum distance at my range.
As for their maximum range I couldn’t tell you. But remember they’re intended to be BACKUP sights in the event that your optic fails, they’re not meant to be your primary sights although you could use them that way.
I just did this last weekend. 10.3" SBR and MBUS. I’d say it depends on what you are shooting at and how far away you are. I was shooting at a D size AQT out to 400 yards. The “in the black” on those targets are ~18" high. That’s a bit over 4 MOA tall at 400 yards.
The shorter sight radius on the SBR means each front sight click is going to be more than the normal 1.875 MOA @ 100 yards. I was seeing 2.5 MOA per click! Two clicks @ 400 yards will take you from the bottom edge to over the head of those AQT targets. I was seeing ~5 MOA drop going from 300 to 400 yards shooting MK 262 Mod1. If you make good hits using a center hold at 300 then move back to 400 you would need to hold over at the hat to make hits at the bottom of that target. That sight picture sucks and Tango don’t give you time to dig out your sight tool!!! The blade covers the entire target. When using hold overs, the sight picture using an EOTech is MUCH better than iron sights.
If you really have that much distance to play with you will want to stretch that thing out just like I did. Forget the co-witness. You’ll probably want your irons zero’d at 25 yards.
I go about zeroing Troy BUIS with no elevation on the rear aperture by adjusting elevation on the front sight post and windage on the rear. I run mine at a 50/200 zero on a 16" upper, and find that hitting targets at ranges greater than the 200 yard zero is a question of hold over. I have only shot a 10.5" barrel out to around 150 with irons, and find that sight radius is the limiting factor for getting an accurate shot off onto small targets. Then again, my knowledge is limited with shorter barrel lengths.
