A friend of mine recently took his Rossi .357 out shooting. After the third reload, the cylinder was stuck in place and would not open. Any info on this would be great.
I had one do the same to me years ago. Not sure what caused it but it taught me that even a revolver can jam up tight.
Well when I figure out how to fix it, I’ll post the results on here without a doubt. Thanks for responding.
Maybe not your exact model but…
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-YLH1bOjU0g
Proceed at your own risk. By all means do not hesitate to find a good smith if this looks even remotely over your head. I studied every thing I could before disassembling my S&W revolver the first time, and that was for cleaning only. If the gun had timing issues or other anomalies I would have sent it to some one.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Revolver
Sorry, I modified my original post. There’s a link above that might help. Good luck!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
After you are able to open the cylinder, make sure that the ejector rod is screwed in tightly, it screws in counterclockwise. The rod tends to sometime backs itself out and cause difficulty in opening the cylinder.
On an old Charter Arms .38 I had the same issue and was able to maneuver a piece of thin metal shim material between the back of the cylinder and the frame to move the cylinder pin forward. On a Rossi having a side plate like a Smith, you can remove the plate, then remove cylinder latch and the part it’s attached to inside the frame, and then push forward on the cylinder pin with a punch.
Thanks for the input all!
This ^^^^^^^
I had one a number of years ago that the center pin would get stuck. Either in or out. Usually it was stuck in and the cylinder would not latch, but sometimes it would cause the cylinder to stick. I really did not want to mess with the warranty, so I took a drill bit and just slightly reamed out the ejector center where the center pin sticks though. Fixed all of the problems and it was quite reliable after that. I guess there were some small burrs(couldn’t see any) or it was under size to begin with…
My brother had bought one of the large frame 7 or 8 shot .357 Taurus models that did the same thing. After firing one or two cylinders full the thing just plain locked up after his 3rd shot, with the cylinder bound in place and unable to open. We kept it pointed downrange and just keep gently trying to work the latch and the hammer. Eventually the gun opened up after we played with it enough. My brother sold the gun shortly after with full disclosure to the new owner about what had happened.
As stated before, if you do get it open check the ejector rod. Also check the cylinder face to see if it has any carbon buildup on it, and check the gap with a set feeler gauges to see if it’s too tight as that may also bind the gun up. I don’t remember the exact measurements for what is considered proper, but you should be able to easily find them with a google search.
My Rossi has been rock solid, have had it 20 years. I have heard of and seen Taurus Revolvers having issues as of late. I thought their semi auto line was lack luster, well seems the revolvers may also be. Let us know what happens with yours.
I was pleased to find Academy Sports selling the 3" Rossi .357 a few years ago.
You don’t see many .357s with a 3" barrel, and they had a great price on it.
I bought one.
Worked just fine firing .38 rounds.
1 or 2 shots of .357 and the cylinder locked up. :mad:
Switched back to .38, then .357. Same results every time.
Sold it with full disclosure (at a significant loss) to a coworker.
Now it’s S&W or Ruger wheelguns for me.
Many years ago when S&W L frame 686 came out…I got two in a row that you couldn’t fire one cylinder thru w/o locking…TIGHT. Third one worked fine. I read several years later S&W recalled a bunch due to undersized cylinders jamming the guns. This MIGHT be a cause. That, and its a Rossi.