:help::help::help:
Once, many moons ago, I broke one of the tabs off on the lower receiver that helps hold the trigger guard in place. I was wondering if someone made a block vise or support to help keep this from happening again. I have since jerry-rigged something together out of a 4x4 piece of wood hole holes drill in it but I was looking for a more professional look.
Thanks to all that have input.
Thanks,
MCASSgt New River
I think a hard resilient type of plastic is the best thing to make blocks from. A cutting board would be an easily available example of such material and probably of good thickness for your needs.
Damn good question! Is there a better way to do this? When I installed my lpk this is the only part that came out less than desirable. My roll pin mushroomed a little and th finish was a little mangled. Why in the hell does that have to be so bloody tight. :moil: Seriously uncool. It was like Ron Jeremy… nevermind.
Delrin would not be a bad material to mfg a block from. I’ve always used a block of wood with success, and have suggested this in the past.
Block of wood here too. The trick I’ve used is support the trigger guard when getting the roll pin started into the first tab. Placing the wood under the bottom tab is the way to break a tab off.
I’ve had luck by locking the pivot detent in place at the front of the triggerguard, then swinging the rear of the triggerguard in place.
With the rear of the triggerguard lined up, and supporting the bottom ear on a block of wood, I tap the roll pin in place.
Utilizing this method, the bottom triggerguard ear has support from the block of wood, preventing it from snapping off. The top ear is supported by the triggerguard itself, preventing it from snapping off.
I’ve used a few LPKs that included spiral roll pins fro the trigger guard. These install alot easier, a little oil and they just tap right in.
LOL. I just this minute got done doing exactly that - Magpul trigger guard on my new Noveske. I laid the ears on a ream of 3-hole paper with the roll pin centered over one of the holes and drove it out with a regular 1/8 inch steel punch. In retrospect, I highly recommend using a roll-pin punch so ensure that the punch is centered on the pin and not overlapping onto the trigger guard ear.
For putting the pin back in, I oiled it up with CLP and tapped on it with a brass hammer (again supported on that ream of paper) while the 1/8 inch steel punch was inserted from below to make sure the ears and hole in the trigger guard were aligned. After I was sure the pin was partly in the trigger guard, I drove it the rest of the way with a C-clamp. That is very effective, far less scary and less marring.
And a little grease or oil helps.
Yes Sir…sure can’t hurt. 
My incredibly expensive solution that has worked for near 60 builds is a 1" wide piece of 1/2" osb wrapped in duct tape- using the same method quib does.
Simple and it gets the job done…
Interesting. I’ve never oiled one. But I move the block a little over so that the guard is resting on it. I do this because of the fact that there is a little play between the guard and the two tabs. Using the bottom tab on the block can cause compression between the two tabs.
I’m basically tackling one tab at a time. The first tab is impact neutral with the guard on the block under it, and then I move the block behind the bottom tab when the pin gets there. By then, you’re pretty much home free.
A paperback book, folded back to the proper page, works for me.
I use the same procedure Quib.
As a note it also helps to roll the leading edge of some of the roll pins that are sharp or square.This aids in getting the pin started and snag free install.As far as lube on the pin,I use a bit of grease on pretty much everything going into the lower on initial assembly.
Yup. Another good tip. I’ve done this assembling AR’s, as well as on aircraft components and installs.
It’s amazing how many small mechanical tips or tricks there are that can take the headache out of assembly.
I haven’t had a problem yet with compression of the ears, in my experience the triggerguard seems to fill that space between the receiver ears pretty well. But you have a valid point and that is certainly something to keep in mind.
This. It works quite well if needed.
I’ve found squeezing the pins in with needlenose pliers easier than hammering them in. Thats how I’ve built the last few lowers.
I haven’t had the problem either, but I always assumed that’s how guys were breaking lowers. 