Thinking about getting a roll pin punch kits. Not sure which brand to get. I’ve seen sears brand, lyman, craftsmans to name a few but I really dont want to get anything extra if I don’t need it.
I have this and this and can tell you not to bother with those two. The thinner punches have all bent in both kits.
I got a punch kit (3 pieces) from Home Depot that does what I need it to; remove an AR’s front sight post, gas tube, etc.
My Brownells roll pin punches have held up well. Anything will bend if pushed too hard, even my grandfather’s WWII-era Starrett stuff.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=12944/sku/Roll_Pin_Punch_Kit
I also really like my set of roll pin holders from Brownells. Makes getting pins started very easy.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=781/Product/ROLL_PIN_HOLDERS
My AR-15 toolkit has these punches:
Brownells #3 (3/32)
Brownells #4 (1/8)
Brownels pin holder/starter no. 3S (3/32)
Brownells pin holder/starter no. 4S (1/8)
I’ve heard good things about this special punch from MidwayUSA, but I have no personal experience with it.
While true, IMHO they bent far too easily. How does one push a roll pin “too hard”? You tap the punch until the pin comes out… I find the Brownells roll-pin punches to be exceedingly soft and therefore entirely useless in my experience. The ones that bent did so with little to no movement on the pin and once bent were useless for removing the pin.
I have been using the brownells roll pin punches. And so far I have been fairly impressed. It has fit every roll pin and the hole perfect for me so-far.
I have a plain set of punches I picked up at HD the small ones didn’t bend they just snapped off:blink:. I will probably buy the brownells punch set when ever I have to make another order to brownells.
I have one of these kits: 8 piece punch set. I think I paid $4 for it on sale.
While it is not professional grade, it has served me far better than I expected. It has been used dozens of times and I finally broke one of the punches recently which was on me. I accidentally struck the punch on an angle and snapped the tip off.
What were they bending on?
I have used them on an M&P 4 times including replacing all the roll pins.
Used a few times on AR trigger guard and few times on the ejector pin which can be tricky because of the off set. I just clamp the bolt in padded vise jaws so I can get a straight shot at driving it out.
Got mine from Snap On.
I bought a set from Snap On at a good price on Amazon, and have been satisfied with them. I also use the starter punch set from Brownells, and straight punches by Starrett. I believe tools, as for everything else you’ll see discussed here on M4C fall under the “buy once, cry once” philosophy. In my almost 30 year career as a tool maker, the only problems I’ve ever had with tools are with the cheap ones I bought early on because I was told “these will be good enough”. If you’re willing to spend well over a grand on a high quality AR or other firearm, why would you skimp over ten or twenty bucks on the tools to work on it properly?
Maybe Brownells has been shopping around and we’ve got different sets. Mine have held up well. When did you purchase yours?
I have purchased several different sets of roll pin punches through the years.
The one I still own and use regularly is a Craftsmen set from Sears.
In my experience, any punch set will bend or break with regular use, and with the lifetime replacement warranty and convenience of local Sears stores, it’s a simple matter to walk in and exchange any damaged tool for a new one.
Yeah I snapped off a craftsman punch when I built my father in law to be’s S&W lower.
Here’s my thoughts. For one you need to make sure you are using the right punch for the right thing. I have seen people beating on pins when it wasn’t needed or they were using the wrong punch.
I have been using Starrett punches for years and never had any problems. The only issue I have had across the board was with the thin punch (gas tube roll pin). I have learned over the years it is best to lube the area first and use a modified punch to knock it loose first.
It also helps to put a drop of lube on the pins or the hole where you are installing the pin.
====================================
If you were going to buy the punches separate to work on an AR, are these the only sizes you’d really need?
Might be easier (and cheaper) to by high-end punches if I don’t need a whole set.
.
If you want high end, Proto is worth a look.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PROTO-Roll-Pin-Punch-Set-1Q754?xi=xi
+1 to Craftsman’s lifetime warranty. They also treat their military reservist employees very well, and that matters to me.
Not the best price but my local Sears is fairly well stocked on tools and open 7 days a week if I need to replace something.
Gas tube roll pin, pretty much every time. Drop of Kroil or similar, let the thing sit for awhile, bent punch. Switch to Starrett standard, non roll-pin, punch and out it pops. Maybe the roll-pin punch loosened it? :sarcastic:
Hmmm, I’ve had mine for several years at least. Not exactly sure on timeframe. I ordered the larger kit, bent the smallest punch(s) and ordered the smaller kit to replace them and promptly bent them too.
From your second link I saw this thing. Sure beats asking a friend to hold the punch!
On one of my first jobsites there was a guy called “One-Arm Willy” because he had one good arm and one gimpy arm. He went out with “Big D” to hammer in some layout stakes. Willy held the stake while D held the sledge. Now they call him “No-Arm Willy”.:eek:
Thats funny cause i was looking into the first on. Thanks for the heads up.