I’m mounting a new scope to my rifle, and up until now I’ve used a reticle leveling tool, which has disappeared on me… Now, I’m having to eyeball it, and it’s not working out too well… Every time I “think” it’s perfectly level, I’ll move to a different position or lay it on the bipod and it don’t look right to me anymore… I have some serious issues when it comes to my scopes - the word “perfectionist” is really an understatement… Must be an OCD thing!
I am going to save up and purchase another scope leveling tool (recommendations?), but I have to shoot this weekend, and I need this scope mounted and perfect…
I did a search and found someone’s little method for mounting to LaRue mounts, but I am mounting directly to 2 rings, and to make things even worse, they are horizontal split rings (35mm).
Basically, what do you all do to make sure you’re scopes are perfect? Anyone have any homemade tool that they use for this? I just want to soak up as many ideas and as much information as I possibly can on this subject… I have roughly 36 hours from now to get this right. Thanx in advance for any and all info, suggestions, and opinions!
I use one piece 1913 rails on bolt guns too, so…
I put a rail mount level indicator on the rail and mount a bipod. I like to use a non tilting bipod for this like a non tilt Harris. I want to take out all chance of movement or error. I then place sheets of paper under the correct leg to get the bubble to show level. I do this since many bolt rifles do not get bedded perfectly upright in the stock. By this method i get the action at a true 90 degrees from the earth since there is also likely an error in the bench surface. I do original zeroing on very solid concrete benches or concrete slab.
Once that is done, if needed, mark the bench surface so the same location can be used shot to shot. Set the scope in the rings.
I then set my target (solid white) at 100 yards and use a 3 foot level to again get the vertical line level with the ground and draw that line with a marker.
I then go back to the bench, set my vertical line of reticle to the vertical line down range, set eye relief and lock everything down, loctite as needed and apply witness marks.
Depending on the amount of paper needed under one of the bipod legs and the variance in the slope of the benchtop, the bipod can be leveled on one side of the base with shims (referring to Harris).
What I find is that this gets the action 90 degrees with the ground and the scope trued with the action and downrange; regardless of the angle that the action may be in the stock.
My method might not work for you due to your self described “perfectionist” thing, but this is what I do and it works for me.
First, assuming you’re mounting your scope to a rifle that you are familiar with, meaning you have a familiar cheek weld with this rifle. Install the bottom half of the rings in the places where you want them to be, given eye relief and so on.
Next, set the scope in and loosely install the top half of the rings. If your rings are split vertically, then just keep them a little loose around the scope.
Next. If possible to lay the base of the rifle down flat onto another flat surface, do that and then use a small level across the top cap of the scope to see if it is level. Do not tighten at this time, but make small adjustments as necessary.
Next, shoulder the gun with the scope in but not yet tightened in the rings and see how it looks with your normal cheek weld. If cross hairs don’t look right, make adjustments. I use something that I know is fairly square, such as the corner of a house, a vertical fence board, or other things that are square either vertical or horrizontal to help line up the cross hairs with.
Once you get it where it looks and feels right with the way you shoulder your gun, then begin to tighten down. Continue to check the level by re-shouldering after you tighten a little on each screw on the rings.
This works for me, but may not suit everyone. Using a leveler is always a good idea, but if you don’t have one when you need it, then this may be your answer.
Hope it helps, if not the OP, then hope someone may benefit from it.
you can also use one of the laser levels that are available at hardware stores. this allows you to project vertical or horizontal lines on most surfaces.
For the last AR that I did using a LaRue SPR mount it was pretty easy. My scope had a flat on the bottom so I just used a straight edge. Put the straight edge such that it was flat against the mount and then tilted up till I made contact with the flat on the bottom of my scope. Once the scope is level relative to the mount it’s good to go. I have also used two plain jane bubble levels or two inclinometers. For me the DD lite rails were dead nuts parallel with my receiver so I just put one level way up on the forarm and the second on the elevation turret. With the inclinometers you just make sure the readings are the same and not worry about leveling the rifle. Seems to work well but I haven’t really reached out past 300 as I don’t have the room. So far things seem to track square.
Since I last posted this thread, I’ve mounted 2 scopes, the new IOR and a Nikon Buckmasters - both I used the same method of getting them as level as I can with my eye, zeroing them at 100y (and I mean a precise zero, off a sturdy benchrest), then moved the elevation turret up about 15 - 20 MOA. If the shot lands 15-20 MOA directly above you’re zero point, you’re level, if the shot is to the right or left at all, you’re canted. Luckily the IOR was perfect, but the Buckmaster was about 1.5" to the left when I raised the elevation, then I loosened the rings (after marking an index point on both the rings and the tube), then turned the scope a degree or two to the right and redid the procedure - rezeroing@100y and everything, and the second time around it ended up perfect.
Thanx to everyone who submitted their ideas and methods!