So I bought a Noveske 10.5" barrel around a year ago and installed in with no issues, now I need to swap rails and barrel nuts but this thing will not come off. I have broken two punches already. It is in my vise block pretty solid but still doesn’t seem to get maximum force given the gas block is near the end. Should I remove the barrel and then try it with a block of wood or something? I am literally at a loss here.
And I don’t have a torch and would rather not buy one for this sole purpose.
Got a picture, by any chance? Is it just their low-profile block, pinned to the barrel?
If you’re not planning on re-using it, I would say drill the pin out and call it a day, but a picture of the project would definitely help. Not everybody is very good with a side grinder, but that’d be another choice to simply get it off the barrel.
It’s just a standard low profile gas block pinned to the barrel. From what I have read it isn’t tapered at all, just a straight pin.
And I need to reuse the gas block, it is the barrel nut I am swapping.
If you’re putting the block in a vice, it sounds like it’s probably moving and you’re losing some of that energy when you hit the punch.
What I would try next is getting a hard piece of wood and drilling a hole in the area the pin would exit the gas block. Put the block of wood on a sturdy bench or concrete floor and try driving it out again. The goal would be to not lose any energy (sturdy resting surface.) Make sure your punch isn’t making contact with the gas block, too (make sure it isn’t too big)
That’s a great idea. I never thought of drilling a hole in the board like that but it sounds perfect.
Good luck man! Noveske is well known for pinning their gas block’s on like nobody else.
I’ve read this as well, which scares me because I’m considering one of their 10.5" match barrels for a pistol build. Perhaps I’m missing something but why don’t companies like Noveske ship their barrels pre-drilled with LP gas blocks, roll pins etc. so all you have to do is assemble it after installing your barrel nut? They have to know that the gas block is getting removed regardless.
Well I did get it off the first time, I am just switching hand guards now so it shouldn’t be a fault of Noveske putting it on super tight but man, it is on there considering I broke two punches trying. I actually just talked to SLR Rifleworks, the company with both rails I have (different gens with different barrel nuts) and they said they would just send me some stuff to get it working right. Good guys over there. Not even charging me.
I just double checked the read up on the Noveske barrel I am looking at, and it says that the gas block is not installed, just pre drilled for a taper pin, and set screw? Was that the case with your barrel?
Actually, Noveske does ship their barrels predrilled, with gas block and gas tube.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Honestly I can’t remember. It’s been over a year since I installed it the first time.
I can confirm this and also, once installed it’s not easy to remove that pin.
Use a large punch. (correct diameter but with some mass.) Use a large heavy hammer. Set the gas block between wooden blocks or in an armorers block. You may have to apply heat. Good luck!!
I would consider using the block of wood and some sort of shorter punch (maybe made from a broken one) in the vise, as a press. Not the easiest setup though.
I’ve installed and removed a few and they are a pain for sure. Make sure it isn’t the older tapered pin and you’re in the wrong direction for removal. Use some Kroil or other penetrating oil and let it sit for a while. There is a AR-15 block brownells sells (BROWNELLS - AR-15 FRONT SIGHT BENCH BLOCK) that make this an easier job for removal and installation. Just make sure the surface you are using doesn’t flex (workbench) using up energy meant for pin.
For installation put the pin coated with oil in the freezer for 6 hours. Either use the vice grip roll pin install method or the block referenced above and pin will go in easy (i’ve used both). Any other way is torture and your punches will bend before the pin goes in.
Quick question about Noveske and their barrels that come with the pinned gas block:
I am thinking of getting one of their barrels (which is only available with the pinned gas block). However, I intend to use an SLR adjustable set screwed gas block on this. Will the SLR (with its 2 set screws) work with the Noveske barrel?
I think the Noveske barrel has 1 set screw dimple, and am not sure if the drilled portion for the pin will interfere with the SLR’s 2nd set screw.
If anyone can shed light on this soon, please do, as I am looking to make a decision before Black Friday deals are done.
Thanks!
Off the top of my head, I think it could be an issue. The Noveske block should be a standard 1" block with .460 center to center set screws. The dimple under the port should be fine, but the other one may hit where the pin was located.
The answer may simply to be to buy the block, and check it before making any permanent mod. If it doesn’t work send it back or sell it.
Personally I would explore other options other than an adjustable gas block.
Good to know, thanks.
What other options would you recommend?
I am pretty much strictly looking at a Noveske, as I’m looking for a .308/7.62 barrel in an Armalite AR-10 pattern. The only other option is Rainier Arms, but I had a .308 AR barrel of theirs and didn’t have the best experience with it.
I have been using Noveske barrels for years and I have never had this problem. It is the way you are doing it and not the gas block.
As mentioned above get some kind of block. I use the Brownells front sight block. Then you need to clap it down so there is no movement at all. I use these to clamp the entire thing to my work bench:
http://m.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-2-Pack-12-in-Mini-Clamps/50137712
Then use the largest punch you can to get it moving then go to a small one to finish removing it. With the correct tools you should have no issues.
Pretty sure the original issue has been resolved. Someone hijacked it for additional questions.
Apologies, but I didn’t want to start a new thread, and figured this one was similar enough in nature to post in.