I just received an IWC keymod bipod mount in the mail. The installation requires removing the rail as the mount goes into the keymod slot from behind.
How difficult is it to remove just the rail for this installation? I simply need to be able to slip in the mount from the interior of the rail. It doesn’t fit between the barrel and the rail, so the rail needs to be removed.
Do I just need to remove the cross set torx bolts on the rail near the upper receiver? It doesn’t seem like I should have to mess with the barrel nut, gas block or anything else, but I just want to make sure.
The only potential saving grace is that this mount allows rotation on the yaw axis, which, according to the Harris Bipods site, normally requires their big, clunky $90 Rota-Pod adapter. This thing was 8 bucks and their other products have been great.
If removing the rail isn’t a monumental pain in the rump, I may give this thing a try.
… the same folks who describe putting a factory upper, complete lower, BCG/CH, optic, and iron sights together and describing it as a full custom build.
From the drawing I’ve seen, both the KMR, NSR, and Geissele Rails are fairly simple to install/uninstall from the bespoke barrel nut, so that to me is a reflection of how well engineered those designs are.
To be fair, I only removed the handguard. This involved removing two torx bolts and pulling hard. The rest of the installation doesn’t seem too difficult though. You just need the right wrench from BCM.
sorry for my ignorance, since I’m very new keymod accessories. I thought, the whole point of keymod is able to slide in an accessory without having to remove a rail as seen in this video
Does the IWC bipod mount actually fit the keymod opening right? I have a Noveske TRX/NSR bipod mount here which is supposed to work with keymod, but there’s no way I can see for it to work. You can kind of half-assed install it in the keymod opening but it doesn’t really index into the opening on the back side, so the backing plate ends up all crooked and I just don’t trust it. I can flip the backing plate over to fix that, but then the thread engagement is almost nothing…it will end up pulling out.
You’re correct. This is definitely a non-standard keymod attachment. It seems like a design they had for other modular handguards and adapted it to work with keymod.
Sorry to hear about the Noveske mount. I almost ordered one out of impatience with waiting for this IWC model.
The IWC mount fits well on my BCM KMR and SilverBullet432 has it on the NSR in the photo above. The design for these is a little different than the Noveske mount. The mount body is a one piece unit (with no separate backing plate) that goes in from the interior side of the keymod slot and fits in the larger, round part of the slot. The mount has an rubber o-ring so it fits nicely. The whole thing is held on by metal snap ring. It seems like a good mount and it costs $8, so I’m willing to try it out.
The Noveske trx bipod is perfect for keymod, I’ve been running it for like a year or so, it’s completely rock solid.
It comes with the stud, a hat shaped plastic piece, and the backing plate. Slide the backing plate into place over a large keymod hole, with the raised portion facing towards the barrel, not towards the rail. Put the hat shaped plastic piece facing towards the keymod hole (which is upside down from how it normally mounts to a troy rail) and then screw in the bipod stud. To get it aligned, attach a Harris bipod or insert a punch into the hole and gently turn it until it’s aligned. I’ll take a picture.
With bipod mounted, super low profile!
See how the threaded backing plate has the raised portion towards the barrel? Also notice that the screw part of the stud is basically flush with the backing plate’s threaded hole, implying a lot of thread contact.
The plastic hat is upside down… you can’t see the top of the hat in this picture since the top is inside of a large keymod hole:
Overall it’s very stable and isn’t going anywhere. There’s enough torque (using the plastic as a crush washer essentially… But only enough torque to align it after it’s hand tight) that it’s not going to move when the bipod isn’t mounted, and the way the bipod works, it physically can’t come out if the bipod is mounted and tightened down.
That being said, the IWC version is much cheaper. But at least the Noveske one doesn’t require removing your rail, which is only a minor inconvenience anyway.
